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Something you should ask for at an alignment shop is they ensure all the adjustable alignment points match exactly side to side. Some shops just get them inside the specified range and call it good, no matter if one side has positive toe or camber and the other side is a bit negative.
A good shop will always road test a car before and after doing the alignment so the mechanic knows what the car is doing wrong before alignment and whether or not it's right after.
Some FWD cars specify zero toe or some toe out for static alignment because under power the suspension flexes enough to produce toe-in. In such cases worn or deteriorated joints and bushings will result in an incorrect static adjustment and/or too much toe-in under power.
For rear axles of FWD cars there are adjustable, tapered shims available, if the spindles are removable. The back wheels on my 1995 Buick Century were way off until a shop installed shims to bring them to proper alignment.
With non-removable spindles, it's either replacing the axle or getting it bent to twist the spindles back to where they should be. Never use a jack on a torsion beam axle's beam. Always use body jacking points or put the jack under the arms/ends of the axle.
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