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Old 03-24-2015, 09:48 PM   #245 (permalink)
herberpower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
The second new fuel pressure regulator seems to work fine. Problems have disappeared again. But because of my recent fueling issues and persistent fuel-fouled (or oil-fouled) spark plugs that also show lean-burn flaky white/gray residue, I decided to test fuel pressure and compression carefully. Here are the results.

Fuel Pressure: PASSING

Priming pump without running engine: 42 psi (38-46 psi is normal range in Honda FSM), but the fuel pressure quickly drops to 38psi and then slowly drops slightly lower than 38.

Running the engine with vacuum tube connected = 31psi steady, jumps to 34 for a second when I hit throttle hard.

Disconnect vacuum tube, pinch it, and run engine = 42 psi steady and then back down to 31 when I reconnect vacuum hose to FPR. Disconnect again and back to 42psi. (Again, Honda FSM says I should see 38-46psi with the vacuum hose disconnected.)

No more idle or fuel trim trouble (so far), even when warmed until fan runs, even when driven 25-30 miles straight.

Compression test: PASSING

Honda FSM says compression should be 184psi (nominal), 135psi (minimum), and no variation greater than 28 psi between cylinders.

Cyl #1: (179) (170, 165, 167)
Cyl #2: (169) (165, 167, 165)
Cyl #3: (174) (171, 170, 171)
Cyl #4: (170) (173, 173, 172)

The parentheses group separate connections of the tester and commas separate multiple tests during one connection of the tester. I connected the test twice to each cyl and tested each cyl a total of 4 times.

If I am burning or leaking any oil, it must be quite little.

QUESTION: Even though these numbers are fairly good, should I do a "wet" compression test just to see what happens? Would it yield valuable information as to whether the compression drop is rings or valves?
compression test is fine.
pressure drops to less than 10% of origuinal value.
There is a difference of 5% difference between cylinders. one mallor difference may need repairs.

Why using 5w30 or 0W30 oil? This shortening the useful life of the engine.

your engine needs an oil 10w40 to have maximum protection to normal operating temperature.
also can be used: 5w40 15W40.

if you change the oil 10w40. give greater compression engine in the test cylinder.

if the rings are damaged. white or blue smoke is seen. speed climbing to the top.

if smoke appears when changing gear. or when the car dropped on a slope without pressing the accelerator is valve seals.

I think your engine is in good compression.

on the fuel pressure.

when the tank is less than 1/4 of the total jerks begin to appear. do not leave the warehouse within 1/4.

Do you feel the same?

Here gasoline is mixed with 5% bioethanol. in the future will be 10%.

Prove e85 ethanol mixture. and the principle works well. but after a few tanks start jerking.
I think the fuel pump is not suitable for use bioethanol. It may be that if this damaged fuel pump.

to test the ethanol e85 change the ecu program.

without adjusting the ecu. can be used a mixture containing 30% e85.

with more than 30% e85. the fault engine light comes on. by lean.

if its fuel has a lot bioethanol. You can raise the fuel pressure. You can resize the injectors. also compensates for lack of fuel. if this is the problem you can ask me.

before had a honda civic esi 1994. D16Z6 engine.
models are different. the motors are identical.
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