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slowmover · 09-20-2016, 11:58 AM

No emissions devices. Engine tune is biased towards low emission.

As to exhaust, no more than 4.0"' Mandrel-bent. Full-length. 04.5 and later turbo downpipe. Yes, you want a muffler. Plenty of "quiet" (no drone) choices. Turbos kill a lot of sound, but straight pipe a huge mistake.

Smarty Jr may help, BUT, you will search in vain for proof that it is an increase to the annual average (tank by tank is almost meaningless). General consensus is that throttle response is improved. On an '03 it will bring power up to 305/555 level I'm told.

As to gears, 3.42 is the current ratio in production. Means that towing power is compromised, and that the truck is even slower than before. I'd say a guy has to be serious meaning that he's already exhausted learning how to drive it (see Diesel Dave). That's a long road. More than 10k miles to be any good. I believe it would "work" for me (as well as upgrading from the factory limited slip to Detroit TruTrac), but mine is one half of a dedicated 18k lb combination. An alternative I've wondered about of late is to make the conversion to accept latest production 18" wheels and those slightly larger stock tires. An increase in rear axle/wheel capacity is the primary motivation. FE might benefit as well.

Focus on tire choice and mechanical condition, OP. Plenty of meat on that bone.

With that many miles, especially. Figure that CAC hoses are no longer any good. And start looking into injector replacement plus upgrades to fuel filtration AND lift pump. See contributors "cerberusiam" and "Steelhead01" for best advice on CF. (As well as our Pennsylvania friend who built his CTD aerocap from aluminum; posts on both).

Engine hours will come up on dash. CumminsForum has instructions. I always forget. Divide that into miles. Use it for oil change intervals as a record, not just time & miles.

I recommend Howes Meaner Kleaner fuel additive. More complete combustion, IMO, after injectors cleaned. I use it all the time. Schaeffers Diesel Treat is better, but hard to find. Don't bother with the rest (PS silver if none else available).

Factory air filter and Donaldson or Baldwin oil filter. Baldwin only fuel filter on stock setup. Rotella T6 5W-40 oil.

GENOS Garage a good source. Get the bumper mount engine heater plug. Use it year round when you know time of departure. 90" to two hours or overnight. Diesels take too long to warm up. To aid this, get the genuine MOPAR winter cover and learn to use it 41F or lower temps). I also have a four piece grille block I use in spring/fall. Remove once temps are up and/or AC is in use.

Degraded cold weather FE is strictly a function of coolant temp. Slow to rise and subject to plummeting (no load; on highway). Winter fuel is only 4% less energetic in content. Extended idling is the other culprit. Diesels will not warm up by stationary idling. Use the above and ease it down the road.

As to how to use that man trans: For a beginner -- and in general -- rpms of 17-1800 will be good for FE around town. Find that gear and speed. If it means 37-mph in a 45-zone, then that's the game.

Besides, these things ain't easy to stop. At all. Not bad brakes from factory, but sheer weight. Mass.

Move the seat forward so that your shoes rest easily on the firewall behind the pedals. Tip the seat pan forward to take pressure off under thighs. Tilt seat back up. This ain't a car. And I'll bet my legs are longer than yours. I know of what I speak, here. No reaching for shifter or any point of the wheel. Super easy control. Same for the big trucks I drive. Mirrors should split the horizon, and touch the edge of the body. From peripheral vision. Don't run around with the tow mirrors in the upright ghey boy position. Less info and worse FE (they're actually okay for aero).

Learn what works. I moved a year ago and had a three week morning commute. Went from the lazy 18-mpg to an acceptable 21-mpg on rural road now subsumed by suburb by, one, leaving earlier for less traffic; and, two, used cruis control to ease along at 45-mph on a road that varied from 50 up to 55 and down to 35 just before Interstate. Ran that four miles at 58-mph/1725-rpm. And then the last two miles at regulated 35. Aim for rpm.

.

09-20-2016, 11:58 AM	#13 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	No emissions devices. Engine tune is biased towards low emission. As to exhaust, no more than 4.0"' Mandrel-bent. Full-length. 04.5 and later turbo downpipe. Yes, you want a muffler. Plenty of "quiet" (no drone) choices. Turbos kill a lot of sound, but straight pipe a huge mistake. Smarty Jr may help, BUT, you will search in vain for proof that it is an increase to the annual average (tank by tank is almost meaningless). General consensus is that throttle response is improved. On an '03 it will bring power up to 305/555 level I'm told. As to gears, 3.42 is the current ratio in production. Means that towing power is compromised, and that the truck is even slower than before. I'd say a guy has to be serious meaning that he's already exhausted learning how to drive it (see Diesel Dave). That's a long road. More than 10k miles to be any good. I believe it would "work" for me (as well as upgrading from the factory limited slip to Detroit TruTrac), but mine is one half of a dedicated 18k lb combination. An alternative I've wondered about of late is to make the conversion to accept latest production 18" wheels and those slightly larger stock tires. An increase in rear axle/wheel capacity is the primary motivation. FE might benefit as well. Focus on tire choice and mechanical condition, OP. Plenty of meat on that bone. With that many miles, especially. Figure that CAC hoses are no longer any good. And start looking into injector replacement plus upgrades to fuel filtration AND lift pump. See contributors "cerberusiam" and "Steelhead01" for best advice on CF. (As well as our Pennsylvania friend who built his CTD aerocap from aluminum; posts on both). Engine hours will come up on dash. CumminsForum has instructions. I always forget. Divide that into miles. Use it for oil change intervals as a record, not just time & miles. I recommend Howes Meaner Kleaner fuel additive. More complete combustion, IMO, after injectors cleaned. I use it all the time. Schaeffers Diesel Treat is better, but hard to find. Don't bother with the rest (PS silver if none else available). Factory air filter and Donaldson or Baldwin oil filter. Baldwin only fuel filter on stock setup. Rotella T6 5W-40 oil. GENOS Garage a good source. Get the bumper mount engine heater plug. Use it year round when you know time of departure. 90" to two hours or overnight. Diesels take too long to warm up. To aid this, get the genuine MOPAR winter cover and learn to use it 41F or lower temps). I also have a four piece grille block I use in spring/fall. Remove once temps are up and/or AC is in use. Degraded cold weather FE is strictly a function of coolant temp. Slow to rise and subject to plummeting (no load; on highway). Winter fuel is only 4% less energetic in content. Extended idling is the other culprit. Diesels will not warm up by stationary idling. Use the above and ease it down the road. As to how to use that man trans: For a beginner -- and in general -- rpms of 17-1800 will be good for FE around town. Find that gear and speed. If it means 37-mph in a 45-zone, then that's the game. Besides, these things ain't easy to stop. At all. Not bad brakes from factory, but sheer weight. Mass. Move the seat forward so that your shoes rest easily on the firewall behind the pedals. Tip the seat pan forward to take pressure off under thighs. Tilt seat back up. This ain't a car. And I'll bet my legs are longer than yours. I know of what I speak, here. No reaching for shifter or any point of the wheel. Super easy control. Same for the big trucks I drive. Mirrors should split the horizon, and touch the edge of the body. From peripheral vision. Don't run around with the tow mirrors in the upright ghey boy position. Less info and worse FE (they're actually okay for aero). Learn what works. I moved a year ago and had a three week morning commute. Went from the lazy 18-mpg to an acceptable 21-mpg on rural road now subsumed by suburb by, one, leaving earlier for less traffic; and, two, used cruis control to ease along at 45-mph on a road that varied from 50 up to 55 and down to 35 just before Interstate. Ran that four miles at 58-mph/1725-rpm. And then the last two miles at regulated 35. Aim for rpm. . Last edited by slowmover; 09-20-2016 at 02:14 PM..