Yeah, my biggest concern is the tranny -- it's the usual Honda 4-speed auto from the late 90's. I've been EOC-ing with it in Neutral without a problem (for quite a while), but with it dying in "Drive", I have concerns -- especially at 400 RPM.
It has all the fuzzy / hill-logic BS, which you have to trick to get it into torque lockup some days. I'm constantly shifting to selector to force an upshift, or use it to downshift, keeping RPMs well into the "fuel-cut" range -- better than brakes if you have to.
I kill the engine at most lights longer than 20 seconds. I don't usually look at other drivers since I'm focusing on the opposing yellow light and getting the gear selector ready to start, and force to 2nd.
My Wife was following me one day (met up and didn't know it) -- she was 2 cars behind at a light and heard the car starting up. I guess it's pretty loud
If people see the car and stickers on the back, they get it. I'm just a "nutty, Liberal tree hugger in the Midwest, ".
RH77
Quote:
Originally Posted by metroschultz
Short Answer, Yes.
Low rpm will still deliver adequate oil distribution to all your vitals in the engine, and in a manual trans.
Caveat to auto owners, most of the autos in passenger cars have a stall speed near ~ 1200 rpm.
This means below 75% or ~ 800 rpm there is not enough fluid pressure in the torque for operation. AND.
below 50% or ~ 600 rpm there won't be enough fluid pressure to lubricate the rotating assembly in the case.
I can't remember which tranny you've got, and they are not all identical. These are just rough numbers.
That Said,
Many newer cars use fuzzy logic in the controls for the engine and follow your particular driving habits to keep the rpm as low as possible at idle.
SOOO
For greater savings, lower idle is better, no idle (EO) is better still.
Since my car is three colors of blue with one black fender, I get many DIRTY looks when I restart at lights. toobad soosad yourdad,
they also hate me when I put in $11.5 at the pump and tell 'em I've been driving for three Weeks.  |