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Old 06-05-2018, 03:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
Luno
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Denmark
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Oh, what is this, I thought this was a boasting thread but every other comment is from someone doubting by my claims? I can see one caveat with my measurements and that is that running 0.5V higher shortens the open time of the injector but also increases the hang time after power is cut and that not by an equal amount, but I have explained already that I have not run a full tank yet, so my figures might need correction once I've done a fill-up!

City driving is 1/3 - 1/2 power wasted on auxiliary systems from water pump and alternator. Weight is very important in stop and go. When piston heads claim that 5 pounds saved in their hotrod is the same as adding a HP it is also the same as saving a HP when accelerating to the same speed at the same rate.

We do use the same sun on the northern hemisphere and whatever sun height we have here is equivalent to whatever angle the sun hits you at down under. With the added benefit that in summer it stays up for longer. But you are right in that 50W is cutting it close. Having it behind a windshield cuts a 1/3 of power received, ad to that the elevated temperatures in a parked car in summer. So lets say the gets me 40 kWh yearly at my latitude (from the solar energy tables), that's 105 Wh a day on average. So this is not an all year system, and if I need to ad more panels in the fall or for longer trips (load is shared between solar panel and battery now most of the time unless I drive South around noon), so be it.

Idling with everything else off takes 2.5A for the ECU, coils, fuel pump and the single injector (1.1bar fuel pressure). If You have a diesel, maybe a very fancy one with an electric high pressure booster pump your base consumption is much higher, what you get is better atomization which improves fuel economy, but if it takes 350W of electrical power to do that in your car the benefit is eaten up in city driving where you only need 2-3 HP for driving at constant speed, so 1 HP mechanical to make 350W electrically is insignificant on the highway and but bad in city driving. So I agree, putting 350W of solar on your car saves you more than me putting 50W in mine, because your base consumption is higher to begin with. 10% to you saved by omitting the alternator is the same as 25% for me, it is because alternator drag is a much higher percentage to begin with on a small car. The stator coil alone uses 2A when turned on. So when I say that my savings are comparable to what others are getting, I mean in absolute HP savings. If this is only 10% on your car it does not mean that the mods is less beneficial for you as we both save the same amount of fuel by doing this. The reason this takes 350W for you is possibly also because of more electrical loads, electrical power steering? Urea catalyst? or heated oxygen sensor? (I know almost nothing about diesels).

Cheers!!

I'll better do a proper writeup on this with pictures of my clamp meter on every wire and videoed A-B-A tests between fill-ups for some of you to take this serious And I should, Irrefutable numbers are always the best arguments.

Last edited by Luno; 06-05-2018 at 05:07 AM..
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