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Old 02-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Make an engine compartment "blanket" and combine it with a grille block for best results.

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Old 02-08-2011, 11:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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A piece of cardboard wired up in front of the radiator will do wonders and is simple to do.

Also, you could put a electric heater in the inside of the car on a timer. That way it will be toasty warm when you get in for your commute.

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Old 02-09-2011, 03:40 AM   #13 (permalink)
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If I do any mod more involved than a simple grill block, it will be to add a taller final drive to my TSX. I'm turning 3000rpm at 70mph, which is fairly disgusting, especially when you consider how naturally slippery my car is (.27 Cd).

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Why is it necessary for an engine to burn rich while cold? I've never understood why choking an engine allows it to start, because intuitively you would think providing at least enough O2 to completely burn the fuel would be ideal.

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Okay, first person to make an exhaust-heated car heating system wins... something. Go!
I suppose it would provide heat sooner than waiting for water to heat up, but you don't want to steal heat from the exhaust for efficiency and emission reasons.

If we really want to talk efficiency, then we must acknowledge that heating our environment for comfort is extremely inefficient when all that is required for comfort is a regulated micro-layer of air next to the skin. In other words, put on warm cloths.

Whenever I hear the furnace turn on at home, I just think how silly it is to heat thousands of cubic feet of air when less than 1ft is sufficient for comfort. If I didn't have roommates, I'd set the temp at 55.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:28 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I suppose it would provide heat sooner than waiting for water to heat up, but you don't want to steal heat from the exhaust for efficiency and emission reasons.
How do you think removing heat from the exhausts after the catalytic converter would effect either of those?
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Once on a trip my radiator fan didn't work and I noticed that turning the heat up on long uphills helped keep the engine's temperature under control. Also, after I did my idle test I cranked up the heat to see what happens.
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After the test was finished I turned the heat and blower on and set them to max, and the coolant temperature instantly dropped 10 degrees to 55°C (131°F). I then drove 2km to the vet (with the heat on) and the coolant temperature never rose above 55°C.
As Frank Lee mentioned, a grille block and engine blanket are the best (and cheapest) way to speed up warming time. These work even when you can't plug your heater in.

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Okay, first person to make an exhaust-heated car heating system wins... something. Go!
Here's some info if anyone is interested:
Mimicking Gen3 Prius Exhaust Heat Recovery
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[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Okay, first person to make an exhaust-heated car heating system wins... something. Go!
My parents Honda N600 has exhaust heat in the cabin, mostly because it's an air cooled engine, problem with it is tiny exhaust leaks make them self known really quickly, if they used the car in the winter I would be tempted to have a stainless steal heat exchanger built.
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Old 02-09-2011, 04:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Okay, first person to make an exhaust-heated car heating system wins... something. Go!
VW Beetles have exhaust heat, and it's a mess just like the rest of the car. The heat exchanger/exhaust manifold rusts and develops leaks. All of a sudden your cabin is filling with CO.

I agree with Einstein's statement that "things should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler", but those cars were a bit too simple.

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How do you think removing heat from the exhausts after the catalytic converter would effect either of those?
It would be minimal, but forcing exhaust through a radiator or other heat exchanging path would induce back pressure. I fail to see the advantage of exhaust heat used for heating the cabin.
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:40 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck View Post
A piece of cardboard wired up in front of the radiator will do wonders and is simple to do.
On some cars you can slip a piece of cardboard or thin paneling right in front of the radiator to do an easily removable radiator block for cold operation.

Quote:
Also, you could put a electric heater in the inside of the car on a timer. That way it will be toasty warm when you get in for your commute.
You might save a few pennies on gas, but you'll spend them on your electric bill, preheating a cabin that gets cold again as soon as you open the door, unfortunately.

In cold weather operation I run with a radiator block (see above), an auxiliary heated seat cushion and I wear a wired jacket that I plug in, accommodating heated 12V motorcycle gloves that I wear while driving. If your butt is warm and your hands are warm, that's what matters most. BTW, the heated gloves were the best $100 I ever spent.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Thymeclock View Post
In cold weather operation I run with a radiator block (see above), an auxiliary heated seat cushion and I wear a wired jacket that I plug in, accommodating heated 12V motorcycle gloves that I wear while driving. If your butt is warm and your hands are warm, that's what matters most. BTW, the heated gloves were the best $100 I ever spent.
Just out of curiosity, what is the energy draw of each of those?
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[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It would be minimal, but forcing exhaust through a radiator or other heat exchanging path would induce back pressure.
Suppose that "heat exchanging path" had exatly the same geometry on the inside as your current exaust system?

Quote:
I fail to see the advantage of exhaust heat used for heating the cabin.
I guess exept for allowing your engine to warm up faster it would be completely useless..

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