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Old 01-09-2018, 03:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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.

Google "secondary burn wood stoves"

and

"Adding secondary burn tubes to your wood stove"












>


Last edited by redneck; 01-09-2018 at 03:07 PM..
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Old 01-09-2018, 04:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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An afterburner?
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Old 01-10-2018, 08:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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Old 01-11-2018, 01:18 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I neglected to mention I cant do no permanent mods to the stove it self. I have added 2 stainless 3/8 fuel lines they run from the intake to the inside edge of the outlet fitting. It did raise stack temps about 150f to about 550 before it reaches the horizontal section that has been increased from 12" to 32. I have a blower running up 4 inch pipe across the horizontal section and thru a piece of dryer duct on top. I also added a 3" computer fan blowing around the inner housing .025 amp but seams to push the heat more into the room. When I get back to work and am not in such a pinch money wise plan on making a over size heat exchanger with a car catalyst mounted under it. Also a wedge shape deflector to set on the top to push head out more using the natural convection, but keep the ideas coming!
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Shameful using motor oil to get fire going. Kids let fire die while I was out putting in job applications.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
wdb
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Secondary burn is pretty common in newer stove designs. We just got a new Jotul that has it.

Those stovepipe add-ons create a LOT more maintenance, increase creosote buildup and concentrations of same, raise the risk of chimney fire, yada yada. Yep that's right I'm not a fan. I've seen them on oil burner stacks and that's a different kettle of fish. Getting more heat out of the exhaust is best done with masonry and/or a nice long run of stovepipe inside the heated area IMO.

We looked into cold air intakes. Our stove experts recommended against them. New stoves don't really draw much air. They only recommend them if the house is really, really tightly sealed, which ours is definitely not.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Traded some work for a bit of coal almost double the output of heat of slab wood. Most unfortunate I can not afford to buy it right now. Buy slab wood from the local mill for 5 bucks a truck load but cant get any as I loaned my saw out in exchange for a load of hawthorn and iron wood. Woods not here yet last night was burning wet wood not green but old fallen wood half the heat went to just drying it enough to burn. Hopefully one of the interviews I did or the one tomorrow nets me good work. As to any creosote I have not had to clean my chimney yet this year but do inspect it weekly by weekly clean out my long horizontal pipe as it builds fly ash.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I plan before next heating season is to build my own stove. does any one know how much ceramic it would take to hold 8 hours worth of heat @ 50,000 btu worth of heat out put? thinking forced blower rocket type stove blower would kick off after about 2 minutes then thru a catalyst into a bed of ceramic tile filled box but trying to figure how much tiles will be needed as its temp will be 800-1200f off the catalyst. Were could I find such data does any one know?

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