MPGuino release one workspace

[dcb]

Originally Posted by AndrewJ

Got my 'Guino hooked up in the car.

Sweet!

Originally Posted by AndrewJ

Would someone mind "decoding" all the little icons and abbreviations for me?

I tried to capture that info here, but there is still a lot to sort through:

Originally Posted by dcb

Screens:...
Raw displays inj open Seconds, inj open microSeconds, injector count, vss count...

Maybe the wiki version will be easier to navigate. The main and formatted screens are defined there also, but it is all subject to change as we havent really talked much about the screens yet.

Main displays instant and current mpg and tank miles and gallons (in order).

"IC001.54"? hmm...

[AndrewJ]

Originally Posted by dcb

"IC001.54"? hmm...

Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised at all to figure out that I have the INJ and VSS wires switched and/or have the wrong INJ wire....

More stuff to sort through on my next day off.

Thanks for the reply dcb. You're doing a fracking amazing job!

[larrydag]

Well I'm back on the Opengauge project after my vacation. Just before my vacation I was driving around with my Opengauge proto and it just turned off. I tried hooking it up last night to my computer and I couldn't get it to do anything. I think I fried the ATmega chip. I don't know what I did exactly. It could be the fact that I don't have the constant power hookup yet.

For those Honda owners out there. What have you rigged up in the past do get constant power from the battery? Is there an easy hookup? It looks like there might not be a constant power from the ECU but I'm not totally sure.

[dcb]

no power LED even? Got a voltmeter? See if you are getting 12 volts the the 7805. If so, see if you are getting 5 volts out of the 7805. If not then replace the 7805 (the shack should have one for a buck or two) and let us know that was what broke if you would, we might need to condition the power a tad if so.

[larrydag]

I'll give that a check tonight with my multimeter. I have a feeling we might need to condition the power anyway because I imagine different car manufacturers will vary on power.

[awillard69]

I'm curious about the conditioning part. The 7805 should handle that, it's rated for up to 33v (I think), it should be doing that part.

Since you are working with your prototype, is it possible something shorted out some pins? (That's why I wanted mine in an enclosure before I take it on the road)

Did you possibly over-rev and send a surge? I used to have an old Subaru that would blow a fuse if you over reved.

What about the board? Any discoloration or scorching? Anything look melted?

That's why I asked if anyone was fusing their power input and if so, at what amperage? Any concern from shorting out the Guino adversely affecting the automobile?

[cmags]

Alright, well it's time to dive in. I just ordered the Freeduino serial (on sale for $14.50 - I think there's only 5 left at that price now). I've got a 20x4 non-backlit LCD w/ the same base chipset so that should be enough for testing for now. I should have most of the additional parts needed for the buttons, etc. in my parts bin, though I'm not sure if I've got zeners. Rat shack is right around the corner though.

So now while its on its way, what information do I need to find out about my car? I've got an '05 Subaru Impreza, and I should be able to get the dirty details out on nasioc.com (huge Subaru/Impreza internet forum). Just need to know what questions to ask. What details do I need to find out about my injectors, and pinouts on the ECU? I've got the factory service manual for my car, so pinouts should be fairly easy to look up.

Oh, and if anyone else has an Impreza, lemme know and I'll be glad to share my findings.

[awillard69]

Cmags: Welcome aboard.

[larrydag]

Here's an idea for constant power for the Opengauge.

Cigarette Lighter adapter plugs with leads/connectors

Frys:
http://shop3.frys.com/product/191604...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

RadioShack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

[cmags]

Personally, I like this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

It's got a 7.5A mini-fuse built into the side, replaceable with anything lower if wanted. It uses two spring connectors (similar to stereo wire quick connectors) and has a nice little form factor that isn't as obtrusive as the banana jack one.

Either way, one thing to realize is that not all cars keep the cigarette lighter jack constantly powered. Mine only comes on w/ ACC and IGN and will turn off during a crank. Many Japanese cars are like this, where I've noticed most American trucks are constant. In-between is a crapshoot.

Depending on the current requirements for the 'guino, the backside of all radio harnesses have a const. +12V and ground (typically the yellow wire) used to power the radio memory when the car is off. Less than an amp or two *should* be safe to tap from this line. Beyond this, I'd run to the battery directly (be sure to fuse any wire at the wire's top rating or lower when running from the battery to prevent shorts and fire). Most cars have a convenient firewall rubber grommet you can punch through somewhere above the pedals.

[MetroMPG]

dcb, you're famous:

http://www.hackaday.com/2008/05/29/m...fuel-montoring

They got the project name wrong though.

[dcb]

Originally Posted by larrydag

I'll give that a check tonight with my multimeter. I have a feeling we might need to condition the power anyway because I imagine different car manufacturers will vary on power.

So was there power going to the guino?

Actually, the previous night I cooked an atmega168 trying to set up a test fixture. The only way I knew it was the chip was to pop in a known good chip. I also tried to reset the chip by putting together a parallel ICSP and reloading the bootloader (old parallel cable, some resistors, and a bit of hard drive connector). Had to try several computers before finding one it worked with, and it did work with the good chip, but I couldn't get the bad chip to respond.





I have more chips en-route, now I don't need to get them pre-loaded with the bootloader anyway

[larrydag]

I did my mutlimeter test on 7805 chip. The voltage was way down. I wasn't even getting 1V. I tried popping in a 78M05A chip that I had lying around. That got the same results so I don't know what is wrong with it. If I hit the reset button the 13 pin LED flashes once otherwise no other response. I tried both USB and DC power and both give the same results. I think I figured out what I did wrong though. Apparently some of the leads on the bottom side of the board were too long. One lead was touching the 7805 chip underneath. I think it shorted.

Fortunately I still have the serial freeduino that I can test with. I might pop out the ATmega chip but I'm not sure I want to run the risk.

[awillard69]

Originally Posted by larrydag

... Apparently some of the leads on the bottom side of the board were too long. One lead was touching the 7805 chip underneath. I think it shorted....

That's why I put mine in an enclosure, with duct or electrical tape covering the bottom of the boards. Minimize the chance for shorting out your board. It could be worse if you damage your auto!

You might have cooked the 7805, but everything else is suspect as well.

This is the caveat when prototyping in this fashion, you have to take precautions. The "stick and mud" approach works well for early work, but it needs to be stable for long term use, so think about that as you build.

[awillard69]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

dcb, you're famous:

http://www.hackaday.com/2008/05/29/m...fuel-montoring

Too cool!

[silverknight]

Hello,

I found you guys from the hackaday blog and am excited to join in building one of these babies for my '96 Acura. I have searched the net for something like this so I am glad to finally find a project like this to get into.

I am majoring in EE but only in my undergrad right now. Any advice before I plunge into replicating what you guys have done so far?

Thanks,

[AndrewJ]

Originally Posted by larrydag

For those Honda owners out there. What have you rigged up in the past do get constant power from the battery? Is there an easy hookup?

I have my MPGuino hooked up from the cigarette lighter power and ground, I just soldered right into the wires going into the back of the lighter socket. The cig lighter power is switched to the ignition, so it'll only be powered up in the "ON" and "RUN" positions (it also has power at "START")

As for an easy constant (non-switched) power source, your radio should have one. There's always a constant power wire on your radio to preserve the settings and run the clock. It's usually the red (smaller) power wire. There's typically a yellow switched wire that's larger.

[larrydag]

My current hookup with the ECU might work. I was thinking that the MPGuino needs to be on all the time. But it can turn off in the KEY OFF position, correct? Right now I have power in the ON position.

I think we are going to need to think through the EOC or EOI instances. (EOI is Engine Off Idle - is that a current acronym?)

[larrydag]

Originally Posted by silverknight

Hello,

I am majoring in EE but only in my undergrad right now. Any advice before I plunge into replicating what you guys have done so far?

Thanks,

Welcome aboard silverknight. dcb is leading the efforts. Read through the forums from the start. Look at this thread for build instructions (MPGuino release one workspace). For history of the project you can look through the "Any interest in developing an open source..." thread

As far as skills needed for the project:
1. Basic soldering
2. Installing software to Windows or Linux (for arduino)
3. Some car electronics knowledge to hookup power, VSS signal, Injector signal. Google should be your friend there. It was for me.

[dcb]

Hi Silvernight!! You might actually be our first EE!

re: power, constant power please. It will eventually need it.

re: hackaday, no shortage of opinions over there LOL

re: fuses, use them as desired. I have ecu sized wires going to guino so the existing circuit protection should suffice (yes I've already blown one fuse). If coming straight from the battery or unfused circuit then it would be a good idea.

re: '05 Subaru Impreza, cmags can you google around and see if you can locate a pinout picture of your ECU plugs?

re: andrew, how do the instant readings look?

re: larry, you back in action?

re: yoshi, I will pay better attention to the interrupt state, thx

re: mosier, any updates?

re: metroMPG, any news? Do you even have a gas car to put on in? I'll be happy to send you the small form factor one if you have a home for it.

re: aWillard, Any luck with the signal generator?

re: Mr Cheap, I assume you are in good shape?


Anybody else have a status, or want to stand up and be counted? Treb? Svo? Daox? Coyote? zrog, is this looking like an option fo you? Lostcause-s2man, you still here? metroschultz, got any figures on how much of the world we are saving? dieselJohn, got anything with an electronic injector on it?

So I've messed around long enough now with some ancilliary tasks, I'm going to get back to coding. It is just really impressive to see such a large group of folks putting such effort into this, it can only make it better. If I haven't said so already, thanks!