Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

[arber333]

Well i am almost there and luckily i remembered...

When i couldnt install PCB one way, due to current sensors, i rotated it so i now have IGBT contacts facing backwards. Eg. G1 E1 on IGBT is now G2 E2 on PCB and vice versa. Please advise Paul. Would that cause harm to IGBTs? Or is the switching so symetrical nothing would happen.
First picture is with contacts connected. On the second i tried to criss cross them so they would plug in ok. Which would be better?

Also is the wire length important? I made twisted wire, but with crossed cables wire length is more than i planned. at least for comfortable installation. Would wire length be an issue? Should i add one TVS diode directly to IGBT GE contacts? Wire length is now 10cm from PCB to GE.

Arber

[MPaulHolmes]

I changed some code on the Maximum power point tracker/charger for the solar panels (5.6kW worth), so the go kart can now charge up nice and fast, right from DC!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxp8kX_golA

[MPaulHolmes]

Originally Posted by arber333

Well i am almost there and luckily i remembered...

When i couldnt install PCB one way, due to current sensors, i rotated it so i now have IGBT contacts facing backwards. Eg. G1 E1 on IGBT is now G2 E2 on PCB and vice versa. Please advise Paul. Would that cause harm to IGBTs? Or is the switching so symetrical nothing would happen.
First picture is with contacts connected. On the second i tried to criss cross them so they would plug in ok. Which would be better?

Also is the wire length important? I made twisted wire, but with crossed cables wire length is more than i planned. at least for comfortable installation. Would wire length be an issue? Should i add one TVS diode directly to IGBT GE contacts? Wire length is now 10cm from PCB to GE.

Arber

Make sure they are crossed. One drives the high side and one the low side. Right now the high side is plugged into the low side and vice versa. That would be very bad. very very very bad.

So, as long as the IGBT on the right and the middle one have the current sensors, it should be OK.

[kalidasbala]

I could not quote, as I have less posts.
That was awesome kart Paul, I like the skidding part.

How easy is it to change the regen? Do we need to change the code or is there any external adjustment? An external knob would be good!

[arber333]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Make sure they are crossed. One drives the high side and one the low side. Right now the high side is plugged into the low side and vice versa. That would be very bad. very very very bad.

So, as long as the IGBT on the right and the middle one have the current sensors, it should be OK.

I will get right to it thanks. I ll get back to you when i rotate the motor.
Wish me luck...

A

[kalidasbala]

In the new board (v0.3), is the desaturation detection need to be done. Connecting "collector of IGBT1H to emitter of IGBT1L" via a wire? Or is it incorporated in the new board?

[arber333]

Originally Posted by kalidasbala

In the new board (v0.3), is the desaturation detection need to be done. Connecting "collector of IGBT1H to emitter of IGBT1L" via a wire? Or is it incorporated in the new board?

I think desat is there on PCB, i dont see any special connectors to feed from C.

Paul may i ask how did you connect contactor and precharge relais? I have them connected to 2x 12V relais outside with one cable +12V as trigger for each relay. The - from each connector goes to inverter case as GND. Would that be ok? Saves on contact place as i have space for only 20 connections.

tnx

A

[kalidasbala]

Originally Posted by arber333

I think desat is there on PCB, i dont see any special connectors to feed from C.

Paul may i ask how did you connect contactor and precharge relais? I have them connected to 2x 12V relais outside with one cable +12V as trigger for each relay. The - from each connector goes to inverter case as GND. Would that be ok? Saves on contact place as i have space for only 20 connections.

tnx

A

Yes, even I would like to know how the connection is. If there is a wiring photo, it would help.

[arber333]

I have prepared inverter for motor start.
First i wired everything like it should be, tyco contactor and all, then i checked. It seems i always make mistake at wiring pedal... I have that written down now.
Well then i setup my laptop and realterm and tried to start with 13V from my battery.
System ran but tyco made rattling noise when starting. It stopped if i brought clear GND to it. It seems path trough small relay on PCB is not as it seems. I checked and on PCB there are two zener diodes clamping from +12 to GND. When tyco starts it seems to put out a spike that zener pulls to gnd... and then releases. Paul why are there zeners? There are no chips there to protect. Well i put another relay in there and tyco clamped good, so that is solved now.
I got good comms with dsPIC30 and i tried to set some parameters, so far good.

I tried to turn shaft by hand (more like with a wrench) and A and B signals were from 4.9V to GND, but i am not sure of Z signal all i got was near GND that changed a little when i spun shaft trough some position. Will see about that.

I connected phase cables and prepared DC cables. Tomorrow i will bring 40V worth of battery from my car to try spinning motor. Now is allmost midnight here...

Some photos

[MPaulHolmes]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gc9...ature=youtu.be