Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

[kalidasbala]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

OK the Kp 41,000 is way too big. It is probably resulting in some overflows in software. Are you sure that was the result of a PI test? It is supposed to stop at like 17,000 or something like that. I better check the code on that. Stick with The 3333, 50 for this second. It is most likely too small of a value, since the lower the voltage the higher the Kp and Ki required, but let's just see if they work for now.

reconfigure the throttle.

For throttle, if minimum is 300 and maximum is 600, do the following:

max-regen-position 300
min-regen-position 400
min-throttle-position 500
max-throttle-position 600

That will give a good sized deadzone of 401 to 499. Then, if the throttle will stay naturally in the dead zone (no spring pulling it to zero?), type the following:

stream-idref 1
stream-iqref 1
stream-id 1
stream-iq 1
stream-percent-volts 1
stream-raw-throttle 1
stream-mechanical-speed 1
data-stream-period 1000

Then, slowly give it some throttle until it gets into the 500-600 range. Does it spin? Let data stream for a second while in that range. Could you post that data? It can be saved to file, and pasted into excel (comma delimited), or you coudl just get a screenshot of the streaming data.

EDIT: You found a software bug in the run-pi-test! I'm going to fix that.

Is the fix for the bug upload to git? or is it possible to upload it somewhere so that I can pick it up.

[HaroldinCR]

HEY GUYS. New thread started in this same fossil fuel free forum, about the E-assist altermotor. PLEASE refrain from adding more posts to Pauls thread. It was breaking up the flow of Pauls information. I have sent a message to MODERATORS to please move all E-assist info from page 305-308 to the NEW THREAD.

Hopefully we can have the same very knowledgable people join in on helping us get a usable controller working for this altermotor.

Thanks for y'alls respect for Pauls Thread. Harold

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tor-35003.html

[arber333]

Originally Posted by thingstodo

I have a small bit of information for this:

Open collector works fine - the pull-up resistor needs to be sized to allow the voltage to rise to 4.5V before it is 'pulled down' by the open collector. That's my experience using a 24V encoder, separately powered from the inverter. My other motor has a 64 ppr encoder so 60 pulses per revolution should be OK.

I lost a wire, either A or B channel, while the motor was operating and the inverter got quite confused. It ended up stopping but the deceleration was not smooth.

If you only have one channel, the inverter will not be able to tell which direction the motor is turning. I think Paul is paying attention to that now, for the regenerative braking. But it may not be a big change to disable the direction monitoring?

Hi thingstodo

Its been a while. I got AB encoder on my motor and want to test it.
https://www.rls.si/products/rotary-m...r-tooth-sensor
Its like you said 5V - 24V powered magnetic encoder. How did you separately power it? So did you uncouple + 5v wire on encoder harness and use 24V? I can also use cars 13.8Vdc.
What kind of resistors did you use for pullup to get good signal? Do you have 1K resistors from connector to chip pins or did you remove them? How do they interact?

It seems my inverter does not want to run run-rotor-test command....

tnx

A

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by arber333

Its been a while. I got AB encoder on my motor and want to test it.
https://www.rls.si/products/rotary-m...r-tooth-sensor
Its like you said 5V - 24V powered magnetic encoder. How did you separately power it? So did you uncouple + 5v wire on encoder harness and use 24V?

My encoder uses an 8 pin round, so I had to make an adapter anyway. I connected the grounds together, using the 24V that powers the controller board (Paul's 12V/24V DC/DC converter) to power the encoder. When I first connected the grounds together, I did the connection with a 1K resistor first and I checked for current flow in case it caused an issue. This power scheme seems to work OK.

I can also use cars 13.8Vdc.

I would avoid an unfiltered power supply. I have not blown up an encoder as yet, but I have killed many a piece of electronics by connecting it to 13.8V in an car. It's a noisy, nasty power supply at best. A small DC/DC supply is well worth it.

What kind of resistors did you use for pullup to get good signal?

I had 1K and .. 5K2 I think .. kicking around my bench. The input current to the micro is not really noticeable. My target was 4.5V, I calculated 4.6V and I measured just over 4.4V. The resistors are +/- 5%. I think the current was under 4 mA.

Do you have 1K resistors from connector to chip pins or did you remove them? How do they interact?

I have 1K resistors in series with the chip inputs. I don't recommend *EVER* removing the series resistors from chip inputs. Even for testing. My clumsiness translates to shorted pins ... and letting out the magic smoke! My scope probes are a bit big to clip onto the chip pins, so I measured on the resistor. 4.4V was enough.

It seems my inverter does not want to run run-rotor-test command....

It's a journey ... keep eliminating barriers and you'll get there!

[arber333]

Originally Posted by thingstodo

I have 1K resistors in series with the chip inputs. I don't recommend *EVER* removing the series resistors from chip inputs. Even for testing. My clumsiness translates to shorted pins ... and letting out the magic smoke! My scope probes are a bit big to clip onto the chip pins, so I measured on the resistor. 4.4V was enough.

It's a journey ... keep eliminating barriers and you'll get there!

Ok i will use 1k as planned.

I found out i changed encoder aperture logic for experimenting with Leaf encoder. It seems my new ACIM magnetic encoder is different than Leaf encoder and so inverter does not record second pulse . I have to change AB signal read in code.

A

[MPaulHolmes]

I just got back from Washington/Oregon. More fun than a barrel of monkeys! A couple days ago we got the Nissan Leaf fixed (I added a metal side sheet metal thing to replace the smashed one), then I drove it up to Mesa, which was like 45 miles away (freeway speeds the whole time). They changed the title from "salvage" to "not salvage" haha. So then we got the license plates, and stuff like that yesterday.

I don't have batteries right now for the solar, so my plan was to dump the MPPT. Just before heading up to washington, I added 4 more panels to bring the total up to 24 at 280watt each. Now the open circuit voltage is around 510v or so. So, now I'm just going to feed that right to the inverter, and I'll just reduce the PWM duty so it stays constant at 340v peak to peak for the waveforms. That way, depending on load, the solar voltage will be all over the place, but it won't matter as long as it doesn't sag below 340v. So that will mean I can use the panels at whatever power I need up to their maximum power until the sun goes down. That's good enough until I can get a battery pack. Ideally I would just charge the friggen leaf pack with the chademo port, but they charge a ridiculous sum for the connector. Alternatively, I was going to add anderson connectors underneath the hood in parallel with the "stupid $9,000,000,000 connector".

[freebeard]

They changed the title from "salvage" to "not salvage" haha.

I always thought that was a one-way street.

[MPaulHolmes]

Well, it's not changed to "normal", but to some other weird thing that isn't salvage, but used to be salvage. There was some random name they used. I got a 240vAC plug today and am attaching it to the outside of my shop, so I can connect the split phase inverter (which is controlled by the AC control/driver board) to the J1772 connector to charge the car. I also spent some time yesterday looking at some chademo protocol stuff so I could just charge the car straight from the solar panels.

[freebeard]

I gutted my 1952 Silver Streak trailer and got it retitled as a utility trailer. Registration dropped to $20/year.

Anybody 3D printing ChAdEmO connectors yet?

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Anybody 3D printing ChAdEmO connectors yet?

I expect that the plastic parts of the connectors are not the issue. Sourcing the spring-loaded copper connections with the crimps would be my guess.

Car side

J1772 inlet by erroneus - Thingiverse

Cable side

Chademo semi-compatible dummy plug - for testing by qualified persons only by erroneus - Thingiverse

My quick search did not come up with models for the male and female pins, or even the proper diameters and lengths