11 mpg to 15 mpg is it possible mostly on driving style and small mods?

[JacobAziza]

I have an advantage in that I have a diesel, a manual trans (but no overdrive), and a standard cab.
My starting mileage is the same as your goal.

But with relatively minor changes I brought my 1983 F-250 from 15mpg up to 25mpg average with mixed loads up to 3 tons (28+ running empty)

Vehicle efficiency upgrades: 28.5mpg (so far) in 2.5ton commercial truck

Its easier to have big increases when you are starting from such a low number. In a small car +10mpg may only be a 30% improvement, while for you that same 10mpg would be 90% better. 4mpg is totally possible. Ford wasn't trying to make these things fuel efficient in the least, so there is all sort of room for improvement.

[strider3700]

Coastrider - That's amazing. I see that you regeared from the 4.10 which I also have. How much did this account for ? what are you doing driving wise that you think is most benefitial? Also I see you have a kill switch and starter button I'm assuming for engine off coasting? Is that even possible with an auto?

[99metro]

15? Sure. ESPECIALLY with a Scangauge. Keep it around 50 mph max and do lots of neutral coasting. The Scangauge will "guide" you from there.

I wish I could use a Scangauge for my Broncos. I'm still eyeing that MPGuino thingy.

[CoastRider]

Originally Posted by strider3700

Coastrider - That's amazing. I see that you regeared from the 4.10 which I also have. How much did this account for ? what are you doing driving wise that you think is most benefitial? Also I see you have a kill switch and starter button I'm assuming for engine off coasting? Is that even possible with an auto?

The gear change helps the most at higher speeds and continueous driving with the 4.10s at 65 mph the engine ran at 2500 rpms now its at 2000. keep in mind I got the gears free from a friend and installed them myself, a gear ratio change runs about 600 each axle new gears install kit and labor. with a 4x4 crew cab 5.8 and an auto I would go any higher ratio than 3.55's

Engine Off Coasting and not idleing have given me the biggest increases,
the bricklike aerodynamics of these trucks doesn't allow for much P&Ging esp at speed the glide is shorter than the pulse

Most of my driving goes like this: I start out in 2nd gear get to 25 mph (the usaul speed limit) hit the kill sw and coast to the next light or stop sign useing momentum and the grade to maintain speed. There are very few flat sections of roads where i live seems like I am always going up or down.

I feel the only purpose of the engine is to move the vehicle forward so If it isnt doing that its off

automatic transmissions should be fine for short distance EOC major down side is not being able to bump start.

[orange4boy]

TCC lockup switch is an option too. (And cheap) I am just testing it now but it seems promising. I'm also doing a lot of coasting with an auto. Not a problem on shorter than a kilometer coasting. Ditto on the no idling/coasting gains.

Also you could easily do an alternator disable switch and a deep cycle battery unless you are driving up to Nanaimo and back one should easily do for around Victoria.

Scavenge an electric cooling fan and remove the engine driven one if so equipped.

If most of your trips are short, a block heater. This one is a wife favourite: instant heat.

Oh, and synthetic oil all round: Trans, engine, diff. It's cold up here.

[aidem1]

I got a softopper for my Tacoma, there was no difference in overall mileage. They only weigh about 40 pounds yet covers & keeps dry.

[strider3700]

I'm starting to wonder if I've got a slightly sticking brake. Some days on a flat surface you can put the truck in drive and it will slowly start moving. Other days same situation and you need to use the gas a bit to get it to start rolling. I can't see any other reason that it wouldn't start rolling.

scan gauge arrived today. I'll install it and fill the tanks up. I'll be running both full for a bit while testing to make sure the transfer mechanism that allows dual tanks is working. If it fails it's not uncommon for mileage to suck because it usually fails in a way that has it returning fuel from the engine to the wrong tank where it bubbles out the filler and onto the road or it floods the charcoal canister with the excess. I know it works fine if on the rear tank. Just need to test on the front with the rear empty.

[Frank Lee]

Do they salt the roads there?

They do here. After a few years the caliper slides get corroded and they stop sliding. Then the pads don't retract away from the disc. Then you waste gas and brake parts.

Now I grease parts that originally were assembled dry. Of course, none on friction surfaces. Time will tell how much longer they'll go.

[strider3700]

When I get the chance I'll have to pull the brakes apart and grease everything up again. It's not a bad idea to check the pads to see how much life they have left in them anyways. They salt sometimes around here but snow/ice is rare. Although last year we got tons.

Bad news on the scan gauge II. my truck is a 97. It's grvw is something like 9200 lbs. That means it was exempt from the ODB2 requirement and doesn't have the plug. So when the scan gauge supported vehicles says all Ford vehicles for 97 what it really means is all vehicles under 8800 lbs which is everything but the HD f-250 and the F-350.
Stupid thing is if this as a california vehicle it would have had to be OSB2 so Ford made the F-150, F-250, california F-250HD, cali F-350 all odb2 and the rest of the country F-250 HD and F-350 odb1. how the hell does that make any sense.

I doubt I can return the unit since it was mail ordered from across the country so I suppose it's onto ebay.

[srortega]

Thats a bummer about the ODBII not being there. the ScnaGauge would have been a big help for you.