94 geo motor/tranny swap into a 96 geo body

[tborgers]

We have a 94 geo metro 3 cylinder 1.0 liter, but the body is all rusted out and the part of the frame where the A arm mounts to is about to snap. We found a 96 geo metro lsi with a blown motor in it. The 96 has a 3 cylinder 1.0 liter just as the 94 does. We want to swap out the 96 motor/trans and put in the 94's motor/trans into the 96 body/frame. What problems could we run into and is it even possible.

Thanks alot,
Tyler

[Christ]

possible differences in sensors, that's about it... other than that, it should be a direct swap.

[tborgers]

which shafts do you use? the 96's or the 94's.

[Christ]

Either should work, I doubt there was any diff unless you're going from auto to manual.

If you're doing that, you will also need the shifter/linkage, pedal set, clutch cable, and maybe a few other things.

Any sensor that has a diff plug than the new car will be easily fixed by swapping in the sensors from the old/blown engine. If they're all the same, keep the sensors off the blown engine as well.

If you don't plan on rebuilding it, you could try selling it (probably for scrap weight) to someone who might rebuild it.. or you can take it to a recycler.

Please recycle the fluids you extract from both engines, most local autozones and advance auto parts will do this for you, if you bring it to them in containers.

[Bicycle Bob]

This is reputed to be one of the easiest such jobs. There are lists available specifically to help out if you hit a snag. The smart guys recommend leaving the intake manifold and all it's connections in the car to avoid compatibility issues.

[tborgers]

what lists do you mean? is there a website or forum?

[Coyote X]

Only real problem you will run into keeping the 96 computer is the crank sensor located in the oil pump. The 94 back cars didn't have it so you will have to either swap oil pumps to get the sensor in the older engine or take the dash out and swap the engine wiring harness over to the 94 and use the 94 computer.

Dash is easy to remove and it makes swapping the engine harness wires way easier. The advantage to the 94 computer is no second o2 sensor and a lot less emissions trouble codes in the computer so it doesn't complain when something as simple as the gas cap isn't on tight. The 96 computer can use the scangauge to clear codes and whatnot and give you realtime mileage where the 94 will need the mpguino to give you mileage data(mpguino also works on the 95+). the 94 just needs a jumper wire or fuse to read the codes so nothing else is needed.

If you use the 96 computer your best bet would be take the intake off the engine before pulling it and just leave it in the car. You also need the 96 distributor and oil pump. Everything else is the same that I can remember so stuff like the water temperature sensor should just plug in.

Going to the 94 computer means pulling the dash and taking the engine wiring harness out and splitting it from the body wiring harness then plugging in the 94 engine harness into the body wiring harness. I am pretty sure they are the same connectors so it should work easy. If not look on my site for wiring diagrams to adapt the connectors.

Both computers are very well tuned stock so you won't gain mileage from either one. the 96 has a better long term fuel trim setup so it might get you a tiny gain in mileage if something isn't working perfectly.

[Bicycle Bob]

My favourite geo wrenchers hang out at
Google Groups which is usually off-topic.
but there are several others with different priorities and the same basic suitability. Most groups have searchable archives with tips on procedures. You might learn how to rebuild the blown engine in a weekend, as well as the best way to do a swap.

[Johnny Mullet]

I agree with CoyoteX. Swap the oil pan, crank sensor, crank pulley, and pump to the older engine so it runs, or swap the wiring and ECU from the older model.

[Christ]

I personally would try to keep it OBD-2, since you're not modding it for racing or anything... I really wouldn't bother trying to swap the wiring harnesses and such, since in my experience, it's a huge PITA for nothing when you have another option that's just as good.

You also get the advantage of using a scangauge, and OBD-2a will basically tell you when you fart in the wrong direction... you'll get a code for it.

Learn to read/clear those codes, you'll have a better chance of diagnosing/fixing your car without taking it to a shop who will rape you on service rates/hourly beer break rates.