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Old 12-28-2012, 04:25 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Thats what in trying to figure out.shops want 500$ to fix it.idk if i cud rebuild it myself or not.rebuild kit is bout 100$. Theres one available in lqk with 108k miles for 300.iv no idea how to do clutch work either.videos help but still very scary to do for first time

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Old 12-28-2012, 10:13 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Rusty crusty trusty - '94 Honda Civic Cx
90 day: 36.13 mpg (US)

Vx - '92 Honda Civic Vx
90 day: 49.97 mpg (US)
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You can get any junkyard trans and slap it in and spend as long as you want to rebuild yours. That's what I would do. Or there is a guy in Cinci ohio that's a d series tranny guru. Don't know what he charges. If I was to pull the axles an it needed trans work I would do it all at once. But thats me. Craigslist or pull yard and like 50$ for a dx tranny it's the same as what you have other than the final drive. So you'll lose a few mpg but... Better than grinding yours away or slap you final drive in a good dx. And 150$ seems a little steep to me I'm cheap. Take pictures and go slow if you can change your oil and spark plugs you can do anything it's just nuts and bolts. Now Adays with instant pics and YouTube it's too easy. If you were closer ild let you do it in my garage and tell you what to do.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:10 AM   #103 (permalink)
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well right now im still waitn on radiator plugs and wires and pcv stuff.the input shaft bearing has been grinding since i got it.clutch feels fine only issue iv had with it is slave cylinder went out and i had to get it to a shop to get it fixed cuz i didnt know what was wrong with it.

Lkq is a junkyard that has a nationwide database and theyv got 1 thats 108k miles and 300 bucks.but i think its too risky for one with that many miles.iv called and emailed around and can get a remanufactured one for bout 500 with shipping included. I placed a post on craigslist looking for one as well

My plan was to save up for a rebuild kit which is about 100 bucks on ebay.get a new axle shaft seal and a new clutch since Im there. Any suggestions on brands of clutch? Nothing fancy or staged just whatever is best recommended for the vx. Or anything else i shud replace while doing so.

As long as i get all this done just needs a descent set of tires and hope the engine and brakes stay in descent shape

Also after getting the tps correctly calibrated.after the car is warmed up while driving and its in neutral the rpms fluctuate quite a bit from 1k to 1.5k. Then when i come to a stop it pretty much idles around 1k. Would this be from the idle air screw needing adjusted?
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:14 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Rusty crusty trusty - '94 Honda Civic Cx
90 day: 36.13 mpg (US)

Vx - '92 Honda Civic Vx
90 day: 49.97 mpg (US)
Thanks: 4
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Rpms are screwy while moving the ecu uses speed and?? So it's only a set steady # at idle. And idle is supposed to be like 600rpm I think. Get an Exedy clutch kit they are the oem supplier. And 300 is a little steep unless it's a vx trans for sure. There is no way from markings to tell. Only big or small bearing and you need a small. I'm not sure if I would trust an eBay rebuild kit for a trans. eBay does have the clutch kit and they are real and like 100$ buy with a seller w good feedback. I pmed a guy bout a trans for you so. I'll let you know what I hear.

Last edited by Rusty94cx; 12-29-2012 at 04:21 AM..
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:12 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty94cx View Post
Rpms are screwy while moving the ecu uses speed and?? So it's only a set steady # at idle. And idle is supposed to be like 600rpm I think. Get an Exedy clutch kit they are the oem supplier. And 300 is a little steep unless it's a vx trans for sure. There is no way from markings to tell. Only big or small bearing and you need a small. I'm not sure if I would trust an eBay rebuild kit for a trans. eBay does have the clutch kit and they are real and like 100$ buy with a seller w good feedback. I pmed a guy bout a trans for you so. I'll let you know what I hear.
That wud be helpful with the trans.where shud i buy the rebuild kit from? Shud i get one with synchros in it as well? And also i think my car might be idling funny cuz the idle screw was adjusted by previous owner.where is the stock position for the idle screw? I cant find anything bout it anywhere
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:18 PM   #106 (permalink)
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just replaced plugs and wires with new ngk ones. drives a little better. after warmed up the engine still surges pretty fast up and down at ~1-1.2k rpms. still getting hesitation when in lean burn mode. going to replace the both pcvs and the grommet(really hoping I can get to it and everything alright).

someone nearby is selling a vx trans with 142k miles on it they said theres no grinding popouts or any issues. their selling it after doing a b16 swap and wanting 250 for it which seems pretty steep.

im not sure if previous owner did anything with the idle screw or not. im hoping thats not whats causing this issue. and Im having way to much trouble still finding a replacement throttle body since the map sensor screws are stripped and the idle screw looks like it might be adjusted or attempted at and I cant get it to move at all.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:53 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Rusty crusty trusty - '94 Honda Civic Cx
90 day: 36.13 mpg (US)

Vx - '92 Honda Civic Vx
90 day: 49.97 mpg (US)
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The cx throttle bodies are the same I believe. I'll look at my cars tomorrow. Thell him you give him 100$ cash. It's not In the highest of demand to most Honda guys. They want the si trans. Cash talks. See if you can drive the car with trans before he pulls it to make sure it's as he says. 250$ is steep in my book 150$ tops.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:14 AM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty94cx View Post
The cx throttle bodies are the same I believe. I'll look at my cars tomorrow. Thell him you give him 100$ cash. It's not In the highest of demand to most Honda guys. They want the si trans. Cash talks. See if you can drive the car with trans before he pulls it to make sure it's as he says. 250$ is steep in my book 150$ tops.
any idea on the mm size for the 94 vx? the smallest new one I can find is a skunk 2 66m.

the trans is already out of his car i believe
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:11 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ryland View Post
just fallow the hose under the aluminum intake until you get to where it enters a tin box, replace the grommet too as that is often the source of the problems with poor idle or the engine running faster then it should.

Grommet should arrive tmmrow.the pcv valve by the grommet.and the 90degree pcv valve on top of intake wont get here til after new years.definitely waiting on those since the up and down idle issue from 1k to 1.2k rpms is getting verry annoying now. Also the hesitation in lean burn. im hoping the pcv system is clogged and causing this and its not another thing.wierd thing is check engine light is never coming on from any of this stuff.and the up and down fluctuation idle started right after recalibrating the tps.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:52 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland View Post
Why are you revving the engine up to 3,000RPM??? even merging in to traffic on the freeway it's rare to need to rev the engine up that high.



#4 is the tube I'm talking about and most part stores do not sell it, a Honda dealer might charge you $15 for it or Honda Automotive Parts sell it for $7 and a few bucks for shipping, if you order that tube get part #3 as well, you can not get to that tube by jacking the car up, you need to find someone with small hands, to get the grommet (#3) out you need needle nose vise grips.

A cold air intake will let you hear the engine more because it will de-tune the air intake and make the engine louder/rougher/rattle, I don't know of any positive effects that it could have.
so I got the grommet the 90 degree pcv valve and the straight one. all of them were aftermarket since my dealership wanted a lot for them and had to special order them.

I replaced the one on the top which was bad. No clicking noise when shaken.
Now for underneath and wierd part.I looked over the car again and ended up draining the oil out and removing the oil filter to get to the #4tube underneath. A LOT easier to repair than getting under intake manifold under the hood.First thing I noticed looking at it from underneath car after oil filter is that it wasn't tight all the way in there. I also just noticed the old grommet on there i didnt think it had one at all. just really dirty. bought to go clean it put everything back throw oil back in start er up hopefully runs lot better. just thought id post the removing oil filter part. definetely made the job easier




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