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Old 07-27-2017, 03:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
The other thing might be what air-baggers call 'laying frame'. You could even have ground anchors mounted in two opposite corners so you could drive onto some bare ground and sink 'em.

If it is THAT windy, I may have other problems such as lethal debris. We do a pretty good job of being able to stay out of Immediate danger

https://www.instagram.com/txstormhunter/

If you want to see a few of my photos.



Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
The converter gets loaded up with NOx and the ecu runs the engine rich every so often to regen the anti-NOx catalyst.
With out that regen the converter loads up with NOx and then the NOx blows straight through.
I would just use a normal converter.

Catalytic converter for lean burn
That is a good point, I may be able to account for that in the tuning of my ECU, but I will need the NOX sensor working to know for sure.

I may wind up just keep the stock Cat.

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Old 07-27-2017, 03:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Dory (AKA blue-fish) - '02 Honda Insight
Team Honda
90 day: 65.04 mpg (US)

Red Fish - '93 Nissan 300zx Convertible
90 day: 21.84 mpg (US)

Nemo - '87 Ford Mustang GT
90 day: 27.26 mpg (US)

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I have had idea floating around for a while.
Im not sure if there has been a thread on it....
The thought is to have an arduino as the output to simulate an oxygen sensor using a few input parameters. (rpm via the injector and TPS via the factory sensor 0-5v)

My wideband has a linar voltage output of 0-5v for a 7.4-22.1 AFR value.
V=(50/147x)- 370/147) x being AFR

or .5-1.5λ or V=5λ-5/2
lambda is much easier lol

My thinking is if the rpm is below 1200 or above 3500 lean burn is not really needed so have the o2 sensor output equal to the factory switching point of 14.7:1

In regards to the throttle position
If <5% run at the normal afr.
If 5-11% run the switching-point at 17.5:1 afr
If12-20% run the switching-point at 16.5 afr
if 21-30% run the switching-point at 15.5 afr
If>30% run the switching-point at the normal 14.7 to help avoid detonation
(possibly wright a formula to make it more linear as apposes to having 3 steps)

Obviously these ranges will need to be adjusted with further testing.

Just an idea I'm throwing out there. I just ordered my Mega 2560 and should be in pretty soon.

If anyone has any ideas/suggestions feel free to comment.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice thread. Love the mods. Subscribed.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.

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Old 07-31-2017, 01:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Dory (AKA blue-fish) - '02 Honda Insight
Team Honda
90 day: 65.04 mpg (US)

Red Fish - '93 Nissan 300zx Convertible
90 day: 21.84 mpg (US)

Nemo - '87 Ford Mustang GT
90 day: 27.26 mpg (US)

Sissy - '94 Acura Integra Ls
90 day: 28.46 mpg (US)
Thanks: 13
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Talking

"Quick" update time. with LOTS of hopefully helpful links
The ecu is chipped, and I have a starting tune.
For how to chip yourown OBD1 honda ecu see hamotorsprots or just do a goolge search.... super easy to find.



I am using a P06 ecu from a 94 civic with a D15B7 and an Auto transmission.
So, yes tou can EASILY use an auto ecu on a manual car. all you have to do is remove 2 resistors (RP17 and RP18), and replace one of them with a jumper wire. (RP18)



For a detailed DIY/HOW-TO see HERE



I still need the TTL to USB conversion cable to Datalog. I should be able to pick it up tomorrow.
Alternatively you could make your own from an old NOKIA 3200 (DKU-5) data cord. See here **no pictures** or Here not quite as detailed

And after ALL of that This will get you loging

I did a few slight changes to the stock p75 rom to help with my slight lean burn set up. from 1250-3500 rpm I added 2degrees of timing while under light load (see red box) I also decreaced the low-mid rpm ople loop crossover threshold to help prevent going into higher engine loads while lean and causing detonation.
The top is the altered timing map and TPS/RPM Closed-open loop crossover
and the bottom are the stock settings.



I also did a few fueling adjustments to have a smoother transition from 16.2:1 under light load cruising to 13.4:1 under hard acceleration. right at the transition to open loop it runs right at 14.5 and richens up when accelerating/pulling a hill. Because this car is basically all stock only very small changes were needed to a few sections of the fuel map.

When I am able to actually log this stuff, it will only get better/easier, with a lot less guesstimation .

Lastly, a good freind surprised me with something he found at a garage sale saying,
Quote:
I saw this and thought you had to have it. It screams Ecomodder!
and Ill be damed, it does!


An oldschool "Econo-Meter" vacuum gauge, I have a new Autometer vacume/boost gauge, but I think this is much cooler!



It may find its way into the car sometime soon!
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Last edited by Stacygifford; 07-31-2017 at 01:02 AM.. Reason: I forget how to type from time to time
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:16 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stacygifford View Post
I have had idea floating around for a while.
Im not sure if there has been a thread on it....
The thought is to have an arduino as the output to simulate an oxygen sensor using a few input parameters. (rpm via the injector and TPS via the factory sensor 0-5v)

My wideband has a linar voltage output of 0-5v for a 7.4-22.1 AFR value.
V=(50/147x)- 370/147) x being AFR

or .5-1.5λ or V=5λ-5/2
lambda is much easier lol

My thinking is if the rpm is below 1200 or above 3500 lean burn is not really needed so have the o2 sensor output equal to the factory switching point of 14.7:1

In regards to the throttle position
If <5% run at the normal afr.
If 5-11% run the switching-point at 17.5:1 afr
If12-20% run the switching-point at 16.5 afr
if 21-30% run the switching-point at 15.5 afr
If>30% run the switching-point at the normal 14.7 to help avoid detonation
(possibly wright a formula to make it more linear as apposes to having 3 steps)

Obviously these ranges will need to be adjusted with further testing.

Just an idea I'm throwing out there. I just ordered my Mega 2560 and should be in pretty soon.

If anyone has any ideas/suggestions feel free to comment.
I believe the standard O2 sensors generate a sine-wave.

You'll need a DAC or the ghetto-DAC (PWM+Resistor+DAC) to get a sine-wave off and arduino if I understand correctly.

I'm really interested in having the same thing. As now I want to achieve something similar as well. I know that wideband-o2 sensor -> narrowband-o2-sensors convertors can be bought off-the-shelf for hundreds of dollars but where's the fun in that.

Nice work.
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2003 Renault Scenic - 30% more power with no loss in fuel economy.
1991 Toyota GT4 - more economical before ST215W engine-swap.
previous: Water-Injected Mitsubishi ~33% improved.
future - probably a Prius

Last edited by ar5boosted; 07-31-2017 at 05:25 AM..
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Old 07-31-2017, 11:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lubbock
Posts: 113

Dory (AKA blue-fish) - '02 Honda Insight
Team Honda
90 day: 65.04 mpg (US)

Red Fish - '93 Nissan 300zx Convertible
90 day: 21.84 mpg (US)

Nemo - '87 Ford Mustang GT
90 day: 27.26 mpg (US)

Sissy - '94 Acura Integra Ls
90 day: 28.46 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar5boosted View Post
I believe the standard O2 sensors generate a sine-wave.

You'll need a DAC or the ghetto-DAC (PWM+Resistor+DAC) to get a sine-wave off and arduino if I understand correctly.

I'm really interested in having the same thing. As now I want to achieve something similar as well. I know that wideband-o2 sensor -> narrowband-o2-sensors convertors can be bought off-the-shelf for hundreds of dollars but where's the fun in that.

Nice work.
Well, the way I'm thinking about it, you would have to use one of the after market wide-band controllers as the input for the arduino anyway. Unless of Of course you have the arduino controlling that as well. Which may not be that difficult, however getting the heating cycle down Would-be difficult ...The Bosh LCU 4.2 and LCU 4.9 are very long life sensors but improper heating can be very detrimental to the life expectancy.
My wideband controler/gauge/sensor cost 219$ It is expensive. But not a whole lot more than just an 02 sensor .
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Old 08-06-2017, 04:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lubbock
Posts: 113

Dory (AKA blue-fish) - '02 Honda Insight
Team Honda
90 day: 65.04 mpg (US)

Red Fish - '93 Nissan 300zx Convertible
90 day: 21.84 mpg (US)

Nemo - '87 Ford Mustang GT
90 day: 27.26 mpg (US)

Sissy - '94 Acura Integra Ls
90 day: 28.46 mpg (US)
Thanks: 13
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Ok so my MPGuino is on its way from Meelis11. When it comes in I will do some A-B-C maybe ?D? testing.
There is a 26 mile loop around Lubbock with slight elevation change.
FindHills.com

I will be setting the cruise at 60 mph and testing some of my changes.

Testing Parameters:
A: "All Stock" Factory ECU with Wide-band switching at 14.7
B: Stock ecu but wide-band switching at 16.2
C: My tuned ECU, with advanced timing from (See post number 14 and wideband switching at 16.2

Other test I am considering.
D/E: adding my power steering/AC load to the engine.
F/G Cruise at 65/70

All testing will be done at night to avoid traffic,
All test will be done consecutively, on the same tank of gas, after the car and tires warm to operating temperature. To help Isolate variables.
I may also find a different (shorter) road to decrease testing time (although, this may make the testing less accurate).
I would like the testing rought to have zero stops, changes in speed as to help remove human error from the equasion. another possible option is FindHills.com at 16 miles. If only I had access to a large oval track/ airfield.

If anyone has any sujestions/reccomndations for testing, or even something you would like me to test, be sure to let me know!
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stacygifford View Post
If anyone has any sujestions/reccomndations for testing, or even something you would like me to test, be sure to let me know!
Good work.

Well, great work so far. Have you ever considered GPS assisted Ecomodding? This has been on my mind for a little while.

What I mean by this is triangulation of GPS coordinates to activate certain logic. So for example, when going on a known downhill incline, turn off the injectors and shutdown automatically. Then at the start of the incline, have the computer start up again at the correct location.

I have some of the code to do this for Arduino, but I'm trying to port it over to Raspberry-Pi because there's more power to do more things because of the bigger memory.

Here is the link to the original project : http://nootropicdesign.com/projectla...05/speed-trap/
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2003 Renault Scenic - 30% more power with no loss in fuel economy.
1991 Toyota GT4 - more economical before ST215W engine-swap.
previous: Water-Injected Mitsubishi ~33% improved.
future - probably a Prius

Last edited by ar5boosted; 08-06-2017 at 11:53 PM..
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Old 08-07-2017, 02:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
Eco Storm Chaser
 
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lubbock
Posts: 113

Dory (AKA blue-fish) - '02 Honda Insight
Team Honda
90 day: 65.04 mpg (US)

Red Fish - '93 Nissan 300zx Convertible
90 day: 21.84 mpg (US)

Nemo - '87 Ford Mustang GT
90 day: 27.26 mpg (US)

Sissy - '94 Acura Integra Ls
90 day: 28.46 mpg (US)
Thanks: 13
Thanked 26 Times in 13 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ar5boosted View Post
Good work.

Well, great work so far. Have you ever considered GPS assisted Ecomodding? This has been on my mind for a little while.

What I mean by this is triangulation of GPS coordinates to activate certain logic. So for example, when going on a known downhill incline, turn off the injectors and shutdown automatically. Then at the start of the incline, have the computer start up again at the correct location.
There have been a few threads on Eco cruise control in the past.
Cruise Control (with MPG sensitive logic)
Eco cruise control in SEMA Launch Pad Competition
Idea: hypermiling cruise control

I think you may be backwards on the
Quote:
when going on a known downhill incline, turn off the injectors and shutdown automatically. Then at the start of the incline, have the computer start up again at the correct location.
In most testing constant throttle, or even accelerating down hill seems to be much better for fuel economy.
Rolling hills... whats the best way to drive them?

GPS assisted cruse has the potential to be very useful, but is probably a good bit beyond my capabilities.

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