95 F250 XL need help.

[Milwaukee]

You will not believe it.

I get 9 mpg no how I drive fast or slow.

Try drive really really slow that pissed off lot drivers in city and cruise 55-60 mph on highway I still get 9.60-9.993 mpg.


Drive like crazy and cruise 70 mph on highway I get 9.23-9.54 mpg.

It have full tune up and install vacuum gauge.

Air tires from 40 to 80 psi that actually improve much but mpg improve 1.


It flatbed

95 F250 XL no ac
351W it was new engine 14,000 miles ago
4.10 in gear ratio
E40D with overdrive
235/85/16 tires Radial wild cat
Plow but I remove plow when no snow.

[ex-x-fire]

Make sure your t-stat is good, a cooler running efi engine will use more gas than a hot (190* temp) running one. What kind of vacuum is the engine making at idle & is the needle steady? Check fuel pressure & make sure it holds pressure w/ the engine off. Are you using a block heater for quicker warm ups?

[Milwaukee]

vacuum is 21 psi. But it like stay 10-15 psi when drive highway 55-65 mph.



block heater it didn't came with. Does that will improve mpg how much? Saw auto zone sell for $31 that go in radiator hose.

Will try change t-stat it better be improve mpg or I wouldn't be happy.


For fuel pressure it too much work why there are manifold block that. 1/2" room.

[theycallmeebryan]

You are probably running a bit rich, and your 4.10 gears don't help too much either..... whats the weight of that truck?

[Milwaukee]

6,100 pounds
How I know if it run rich I can't smell anything.

[Lazarus]

Is this a daily driver or work truck?

[MetroMPG]

I suspect work truck (note mention of plowing).

Here we have what I think is an illustration of the problem of talking in terms of "MPG", particularly for thirsty vehicles. Small MPG differences mask what are actually large percent differences.

He seems discouraged always getting "around 9 mpg", then cites a best of 9.993 mpg when trying, and 9.23 mpg when not trying. That less than 1 mpg difference (0.76 mpg) equals an 8.2% improvement in fuel economy. 8.2% is big!

Assuming 20,000 miles per year and $3 gasoline:

$6004 @ 9.23 mpg
$6501 @ 9.993 mpg

$500 bucks a year is worth trying for in my books.

I'd suggest getting a ScanGauge and trying hard, all the time in terms of driving technique. Then search the list of mods - applying what's suitable for a work truck will be gravy on top of the savings from driving technique.

[Milwaukee]

It was used to be landscape truck. I bought and use for plow snow and daily drive.

I don't leave plow on truck it weight 1,000 pound so I don't want wear out front end so I unhook when we have no snow.

If I leave plow I get 7-8 mpg.


Well if I have money I would swap 4.10 to 3.55 but need wait in summer for warm weather.

[Christ]

3.55 or even a 3.73 would help tremendously.

Are your tires up to the factory spec (or higher, if you're comfortable with it.) I believe it's 35 front and 41 rear cold pressure for the LT tires you should have on there, but it could be different from my memory (Wouldn't surprise me).

You should also have LT tires on there. If you've got P-type tires, they're probably overloaded and performing poorly.

If the plow frame is attached to the front, make sure you don't still have the big-honkin' lights and such that come with it still attached. Those will cost you some funny vortices that could upset anything close to clean flow that you might have had initially.

[Milwaukee]

front tires is 65 psi because I try 45 psi it kind squast when you lift plow.

rear tires is 80 psi.

tires is 235/85/16 raidal wildcat. Not sure if it lt or P how I find out?



It not old style plow that mount behind bumper.

This picture of truck now.