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Old 11-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Changed the trans fluid yesterday. It looks like the differential has no drain, so when I change that I'll probably drop the back cover and make sure it is clean inside and get any residue off the bottom. Looks like they used RTV for a gasket, I'll pick up some from the current owner of my old shop today. Also top off the tank for the first time with the cap installed the whole time. The trans magnetic drain plug had no large debris, just an accumulation of paste in 125k miles so that is a good sign. It does seem to shift easier. Probably the original fluid with a slight accumulation of bronze from the synchros.

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Mech

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Old 11-20-2012, 03:15 PM   #52 (permalink)
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275 miles, fuel gauge reading almost exactly 1/2 tank. 8.54 gallons, 32.2 MPG
in a Pickup truck .

Two valves per cylinder, cast iron head, great final drive gearing. I could probably get it to 35 without the several very short trips to the parts store and other places. Strict 55 back road without lights might get it close to 40 MPG in the summer.

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Mech

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Old 11-21-2012, 07:07 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Great results , your 0 2 sensor must be in good shape, on my one plug 88 that can make a big difference when it fails to respond quickly enough, Did you say you had an electric fan on yours ? you may have a hard time getting the tank to the same fill level everytime so i would of course keep a long term record. aught to try a partial grille block next if you havent already , I really recommend synthetic gear oil, I remember the day i changed mine, didnt roll 100 ft and could tell the difference,
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:07 AM   #54 (permalink)
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B2300 - '96 Mazda B2300 SE

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Just a data point on the radiator fan.

My '96 Lima 2.3 has not had the radiator fan installed for the past 3 years. In summer, I can only stay not moving at lights. Stop and go traffic requires using the heater at full blast to keep the engine cool. Kinda uncomfortable when it's already hot out, but is rare in my case. I also use a scangauge to monitor temps as the factory "gauge" is nearly worthless. I also remove some of the grille block in summer and have removed the non-functioning AC entirely.
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Old 11-22-2012, 05:58 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update, I may try it without the fan today , one thing about my 88 is any change is noticeable right away . I also put a larger pulley on the alternator and made a noticeable seat of the pants difference so probably would work on the 96 ,
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:13 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Jenny - '02 Chevrolet Prizm Lsi
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My 94 ranger hasn't had a fan in it for 4 years
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:46 PM   #57 (permalink)
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well I have a pretty steep three mile long hill to climb, when I shut off at the top of the hill i can smell the heat if you know what i mean , maybe a small electric fan with a delay timer on it for when I park it
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:49 PM   #58 (permalink)
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My same engine in my sisters 88 mustang got 38 mpg on the highway going steady 65 with four people in it, big aero difference and some gearing difference, also electric fan,
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:45 PM   #59 (permalink)
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At 60 MPH my Ranger should be about 2200 RPM. For the time being I am going to keep the clutch fan since I have a full grille block, but there are two additional openings as well as air gaps between the hood and grille and bumper and grille. Not driving the truck as much right now as the weather has been nice for riding the TU 250 Suzuki which gets close to 90 MPG average.
I'll probably work on the hinge system for the cap this week and maybe start on the rear extension of the cap that will mount to the tail gate. Also the gap fillers for the front of the cap when I get the hinge system working.
Thanks for all the great advice everyone.
regards
Mech
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:12 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Pulled one of the spark plugs today, originals with 125k miles on them. Replaced them this afternoon (8 plugs, pain in the arse, took me 1.5 hours). Tha gap was close to twice what it was new, used Motorcraft Platinum, same as was in the truck for the last 15 years. Everyone told me to just replace the original plug wires at the same time but I was careful and they seem to be fine. The truck had some spark knock at low revs in higher gears, under load, which is now greatly reduced. It may have saved me from removing and cleaning the EGR valve, at least for now. When I do that I'll probably remove the upper intake manifold and disconnect the EGR tube at the exhaust manifold.
I'm thinking about replacing the oxygen sensor. Pretty sure it is the original and it must be getting lazy at 125k.
Still need to drop the differential cover and put in new gear lube.
I welded another cross brace in the cap yesterday to maintain the slight curvature in the cap to the back of the top panel.
Working on the rear aero extension in my mind. Going to try to make it mount to the access panel on the tailgate and make it easily removable in case I need to haul something more than 8 feet long. Under 8 feet will fit inside the cap and rear extension, which will need to be about four inches past the top of the lowered tailgate.

regards
Mech

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