TestDrive,
If you are logged in, page 6 has "new nose" photos just before the Wayne Gerdes entry. Look closely at the bottom center and compare it to the "old nose" photo at the top of the page. You can just make out the sliding air inlet and the newly covered inlet slot that was at the front edge of the hood.
I built and installed the entire nosepiece in one morning when I didn't have a camera with me, so I didn't get any pictures of its construction. It went together very quickly. The frame consists of (5) 1/4" x 1" aluminum bars. There are 4 ribs spaced along the width of the nose that each attach to the top and bottom of the OEM bumper and another piece that runs along the midline, intersecting with the forwardmost point of the ribs across the width of the car. Each bar to bar connection is tied by (2) 8-32 screws drilled and tapped into the bar.(holes in upper bar drilled overlarge for screw thread clearance) Likewise for each bar's connection to the OEM bumper. The (5) pieces of sheet metal (0.040" aluminum sheet) were attached to the bars and to the OEM bumper with either 1/4" aluminum pop rivets or 8-32 screws drilled and tapped (where I needed interior access). I used 1/8" rivets for the few sheet metal to sheet metal connections.
The radiator door is a section of 4" diameter PVC pipe with end covers and openings cut into it so that the openings become exposed as the pipe rotates. Think of it as a cylinder with two 45 degree full length slots cut on opposite sides that rotates 90 degrees to either expose the solid side or a slot of the cylinder to the opening cut in the sheet metal. An actuator cable attached to the outside edge of the cylinder causes it to rotate.
Here's a pic of the early nosepiece when it was still covered with unpainted coroplast so you can see the lines of screwheads that follow each of the 4 ribs and the crosspiece that runs along the front. When I later replaced the coroplast with sheet metal I copied the patterns of the 5 coroplast pieces I used to cover the nose.
Here's pics of the sheet metal/ pop rvieted nosepiece with the radiator inlet in the opened and closed positions.
Okay, this may sound crazy, but how about a VX engine in an Accord? My '90 Accord's F22A4 so far has 288,000 trouble-free miles on it, but it'll have to be replaced eventually. Would a VX engine be too small?
While your car would be exceptionally slower at acceleration, etc... Yes, it will fit.
Problem - Custom axles may be necessary, some research will net you better information on that.
Custom engine mounts will need to be made.. D-series engines never came in accords. A,B^1,F,J are the engine variants used in Accords to date.
The engines are of comparable lateral dimensions, but the F is taller than the D substantially.
All that said, it wouldn't likely be TOO overly complicated, even for a newb to engine swapping. The custom mounts would be the hardest part, and you'd be better off doing that work yourself than trying to get someone else to do it for you, unless it's an individual.. contacting HaSport or Place Racing will net you next to no results... if not a few laughs.
If you need help with how to make mounts, (it's not hard to measure/build them correctly) PM me, I'll get you some resources.
I'd like to think that people might open their eyes at some point... instead, I find it more and more likely that I'll just close mine. -- Author kept secret.
Je ne veux pas d'une meilleure vie. Je veux 黎re heureux avec celle que j'ai maintenant.
(I do not want a better life. I want to be happy with the one I have now.)
The aero benefits of the "second windshield" (by eliminating the "A" pillar vortex and smoothing the airflow over the front of the car) were undeniable, but I had some operational problems with it when operating in cold rainy weather. I'm in the process of replacing the clear vinyl on the "windscreen" with Lexan. The vinyl was clear enough when looked at straight through (90 degrees), but was hazy when viewed through at an angle (30 degrees) as it is near the bottom of the windscreen. It also had a tendancy to overwealm the Fog-X and fog up on the inner surface when driving in cold, wet conditions. The Lexan should take care of the low angle visibility problem and I need to get a good watertight seal along the front and sides of the "windshield" so water can't find its way onto the hot hood and end up condensing on the cold inner surfaces of the "windshield". Also considering adding a windshield wiper to the "windshield" to placate any cops that might freak out at a car driving in the rain without wipers, even if I don't really need them.
Have you given up on the "second windshield" / aero-visor?
Was the proto-type aero-visor still in use when you hit the deer?
While the insight's powertrain would be impressive in the aerocivic, the layout would require extensive (read: expensive) modification to the aerocivic, whereas the VX engine is essentially a bolt-in application, only needing some mild extra wiring and a mount swap to be installed perfectly.
I'm not sure what the Insight's engine layout code is, or how exactly the mouting system is designed, but I do know that it requires expensive engine management controls, and I've yet to see anyone actually get one to work perfectly in another chassis.
I have, however, seen an Insight chassis used to make 9 second passes on D-series engines... (read: Bisimoto Engineering)
Also, noted in MetroMPG's budget EV thread, the Li-Ion battery options are prohibitively expensive for the average enthusiast's budget.
I'd like to think that people might open their eyes at some point... instead, I find it more and more likely that I'll just close mine. -- Author kept secret.
Je ne veux pas d'une meilleure vie. Je veux 黎re heureux avec celle que j'ai maintenant.
(I do not want a better life. I want to be happy with the one I have now.)
While the insight's powertrain would be impressive in the aerocivic, the layout would require extensive (read: expensive) modification to the aerocivic, whereas the VX engine is essentially a bolt-in application, only needing some mild extra wiring and a mount swap to be installed perfectly.
I'm not sure what the Insight's engine layout code is, or how exactly the mouting system is designed, but I do know that it requires expensive engine management controls, and I've yet to see anyone actually get one to work perfectly in another chassis.
I have, however, seen an Insight chassis used to make 9 second passes on D-series engines... (read: Bisimoto Engineering)
Also, noted in MetroMPG's budget EV thread, the Li-Ion battery options are prohibitively expensive for the average enthusiast's budget.
Yeah,just kinda pipe-dreaming out loud.Perhaps basjoos can get a bail-out package,purchase Saturn from GM as a condition of there rescue money,then he can switch production over the the 1989 Saturn Impact(EV-1) with Geo Storm powertrain recalibrated for economy as Dr. Paul MaCready had suggested for an 80-mpg gasoline car.-------- More pipe-dreams!
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