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Old 10-16-2016, 10:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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What exactly are you using for a charge controller, batteries and inverter?

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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Morningstar Tristar charge controller (same one I have in my camper).

Morningstar TS 45 Tristar 45 Amp 12 24 48 Volt Solar Charge Controller | eBay ,

a Krieger 2000-watt inverter (I have the 1100-watt version in my camper, it's been running a 110v fridge 24/7 for about three months now, solar keeps the batteries charged all the time, they only drop to about 96% overnight).

Kriger 2000 Watt 12V Power Inverter KR2000 Dual 110V AC Outlets Installatio | eBay

And I'll probably get the same batteries I have in my camper too, four 6v Duracell EGC-2 from Sam's Club. They're actually made by Deka in the U.S.

Duracell® Golf Car Battery - Group Size 230 - Sam's Club

And don't forget the battery monitor, I wouldn't ever build a battery system without one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bogart-TriMe...QAAMXQeKNTOh8i

Oh, I also have a battery isolator switch so the truck alternator can also charge the batteries if need be.

Last edited by Cowcharge; 10-16-2016 at 11:38 PM..
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You will never regret putting hinges on the lid. You will be able to stand inside (bent over, but standing) and pick up stuff that's near the front of the box.

Will you be using gas struts to hold the lid up? I got my gas struts from the local NAPA store - they had a catalog that listed sizes and force ratings.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Subscribed because this is being neatly and efficiently executed. Very cool.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
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Don't get that inverter it's junk.
You do not want to used a modified sine wave inverter on pretty much anything.
You may want to consider AGM batteries too. They can be charged a lot faster than traditional deep cycle flooded lead acid and they resist vibration better than flooded.
I know how those rougha one roads are. I just spent 2 weeks there last month.

Just wondering, but do you really need the 45 amp controller?

Also you should consider a MPPT charger controler. Solar panels on vehicles tend to produce a fraction of rated power. An MPPT controller maximizes the power you can get from them.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:36 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

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See:
Solar 12v assist - EcoModder
Also see my mobile solar hybrid generator:
Home made solar inverter generator hybrid - EcoRenovator
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Looks like a nice, practical build. Thanks for sharing it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRMichler View Post
You will never regret putting hinges on the lid. You will be able to stand inside (bent over, but standing) and pick up stuff that's near the front of the box.

Will you be using gas struts to hold the lid up? I got my gas struts from the local NAPA store - they had a catalog that listed sizes and force ratings.
The hinges were always a part of the plan, as this was always about building a tool box/workshop, not an aero lid.

Yes, I will be using gas cylinders, after I get a better idea of the weight of the lid and solar panel. I am also going to build rigid struts to hold it at cap height for when I need to drive with it up.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:33 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'd think about that. most of the time you can pull it down on the load with a bungee, when the lid has to be up for that load.
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Old 10-18-2016, 04:41 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Don't get that inverter it's junk.
You do not want to used a modified sine wave inverter on pretty much anything.
You may want to consider AGM batteries too. They can be charged a lot faster than traditional deep cycle flooded lead acid and they resist vibration better than flooded.
I know how those rougha one roads are. I just spent 2 weeks there last month.

Just wondering, but do you really need the 45 amp controller?

Also you should consider a MPPT charger controler. Solar panels on vehicles tend to produce a fraction of rated power. An MPPT controller maximizes the power you can get from them.

Got any evidence to support your claim that Krieger inverters are "junk"? Because I already bought two of them, and the 1100-watt has been working fine for months.

I've been running modified wave inverters for a good five years now, and have yet to find anything that wouldn't run on them, including desktops, laptops, TVs and monitors both flat screen and CRT, refrigerators, shop vacs, and power tools. Of course if you'd like to buy a 2000-watt pure sine wave inverter and send it to me, I'll be happy to give it a try.

AGM batteries aren't worth all the extra money unless you're forced to use them because you're putting them in an airplane or are extremely limited in installation attitude. They can't be charged as fast as wet batteries because they must be charged at a lower voltage to prevent over-gassing and thermal damage. They have less capacity per pound. They cannot be maintained. And you can never get a true measure of their state of charge because you have no access to the electrolyte to use a hydrometer.

As for vibration, I rubber-mount everything to do with electronics to absorb it.

Watts = Amps x Volts. 620 watts solar / 14.8 volts charging = 41.9 Amps. Yes, I do really need a 45-amp charge controller. Two of them, in fact.

As for MPPT controllers, they're not worth the money on 12v panels just to get maybe an extra 5-10%. And solar panels on vehicles work just fine, assuming they're installed correctly.

Thanks for the advice, but my system design was carefully thought-out long before I started posting here.

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