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Old 08-13-2016, 07:44 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looking good, and welcome. Luv those metros.

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Old 08-13-2016, 09:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Remove the evaporator, the non air cars use a plastic tube to span the distance, no I don't have one anymore. I have had many Metros including one that dark blue, I do have a perfect hood that color.
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by me and my metro View Post
Remove the evaporator, the non air cars use a plastic tube to span the distance, no I don't have one anymore. I have had many Metros including one that dark blue, I do have a perfect hood that color.
I have the hood, but that's the first thing I take off when I'm pulling and engine out, and I just leave it out of my way until I'm done, so I guess that's why it's not pictured. But I do appreciate the offer

As far as the evap. I'm in no rush to remove at the moment. But if I'm ever under the dash then I'll consider it, it may come in handy at a later time. For now I'm simply going to plug the inlet/outlets and let it be.
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm loving your project so far, can't wait to see what sort of MPG numbers you get! I would love to pull out my air con but it works really well haha, and it gets bloody hot here in summer!
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm loving your project so far, can't wait to see what sort of MPG numbers you get! I would love to pull out my air con but it works really well haha, and it gets bloody hot here in summer!
Thanks for the encouragement... I'm also getting some what anxious to find out what the MPG gains will be also once it sees the road again.

Well... not including power losses, you can keep your a/c and remove your passenger seat... after all the seat weighs more than the complete a/c system including engine bracket
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks for the encouragement... I'm also getting some what anxious to find out what the MPG gains will be also once it sees the road again.

Well... not including power losses, you can keep your a/c and remove your passenger seat... after all the seat weighs more than the complete a/c system including engine bracket
Hmmm good idea, My wife already thinks I'm strange so may as well be consistent! I probably should check the local laws to if it's legal first. It would make carrying 2x4's easier

How much does the Metro weigh in its factory state?
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Old 08-14-2016, 11:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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So yesterday I was @ idle... doing mainly web research on some dream list things I'm planning to do to the metro in the not so near future... Also reading some of the endless posts here dealing with all kinds of stuff... aero stuff, electrical stuff, and what not... and interestingly enough there is one project mod that I've had in mind for some time that I don't think I've seen anyone write about or do yet... but haven't read all the posts either... so I'll leave that alone for now until I'm actually ready to do it

But got tired of research, and since my block is out, and I've done just about everything else to body that I'm going to do to the car at this phase... I was only left with basically two tings I could do, rebuild the trany and drop the gas tank.

So last night I opted for the easier of the two... I dropped the gas tank to inspect internal condition of tank and pump, energized & tested the pump, ohmed out the level sending unit. All was OK! Did not install it last night because I wanted to fetch a strainer and tank gasket... But today I couldn't find one locally and they were to expensive to order anyways. I just cleaned my strainer and reused tank gasket. While I was there I inspect all my fuel and evap hose sections and they were all amazingly in great shape. So I put the tank back in today w/ new fuel filter.




With the tank back in place I set out to rebuild my trany...




But I ran into two problems... and one dilemma:

1- my harbor freight press (which works great for just about everything else I tinker with) believe it or not will not allow for the dive gearing to fit, plus my plates are to thick... and after a few hours of messing around and modifying stuff I only was able to remove only some of the gears... So decided I better let them be before I damaged them.

I have access to better tooling and plates at my work place, so can do them later in the week if I decide to go that route, not a big deal, but it was very disappointing and a big time waster.

2- while taking the trany case halves apart I was abruptly reminded of the fact that the transmission had a cracked bolt ear on the bottom, where apparently the previous parts donor car driver had trampled over something... either way, I remembered that it did leak during the meager three weeks it ran. So that is an issue that will HAVE to be addressed if I decide to put it back together. I have multiple auto tranys inside the parts car, but of course they have to be different... so no point there.

The other dilemma was that I did not know for sure what my final gear ratio was... so I counted teeth today several times and yes I have 4.10... I knew I was going to rebuild the trany so I have been searching for a 3.52 ring & shaft set for some time now w/o any success... and didn't really want to buy another transmission. But it seems I might have to.

Since I can't weld aluminum I would have to take the case to a machinist I've worked with many times in the past... that wouldn't cost me much, and if I was to find a 3.52 combo for cheap, then I could go that route much more cost effectively... but I cant seem to find them.

So I'm guessing my best bet if to buy a 3.52 trany, and use my rebuild kit on it instead.. What you guys think?

Any one here have a good 3.52 ring and shaft set for sale?
Or maybe you want to sell me a good 3.52 trany?
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Old 08-15-2016, 12:06 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepunisher View Post
How much does the Metro weigh in its factory state?

first generation Metros only ('89-'94)
Hatchback Coupe:
Curb Weight(lbs): 1,650/ 1,621(XFi)
1989 thru 1994 Metro Specs
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:30 AM   #19 (permalink)
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So after weighing my options and actually finding two 3.52 ratio transmissions within "reasonable" price range... I decided to buy into the upgrade... Had to do it at some point during this build.

I found a fairly local 3.52 trany for $400 but no real guarantees other than the Swift it came out of was running when pulled, and no mileage info...

And I found another 3.52 trany across the country in South Dakota, with known mileage, tested, and with 30day warranty, shipped to my door for $300... So I bought it today.

These things are hard to come by, I have been looking for some time now before I started the build without any luck. So I had to jump at it, and I guess $300 for this specific ratio trany is not too terrible compared to other mod prices...
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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This morning at the early wee hours of the morning... I found this on ebay for $160 shipped. I fell for it and bought it..



"1.0L. 3Cyl. 1993 Geo Metro XFI Computer 33920-60E63 , XFI Camshaft with cam card from Delta camshafts and timing gear up for sale. All three units are in excellent working condition."

Also today I brought block back from machine shop... They had a bit of an incident with their tooling in the center bore... so they wound up having to sleeve the middle cylinder for free... and they had to deck the block to ensure sleeve install and in the process found that the block itself was warped. They wound up having to shave block an estimated 0.007"-0.010" to be correct warping... The sleeving and decking was free since they were correcting there mishap.

So now I have a fresh 0.020" bore, fresh hone, 1 fresh sleeve, and one more of the 65 mods listed... a shaved block





The down side: Because the block was warped, I had to check the head... and found I have a burn valve...

SO any suggestion on what will be the best option FE wise on my valves? increase diameters? stainless? any other head work suggestions that I should consider since I have to rework head anyways?

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