Finally figured a simpler way to securing the access doors and the gap cover instead of using the bungee cords which seemed to git in the way when deploying/securing the cab cover. I just use an eye bolt on the top just like the bottom!
Now I don't have to worry about the gap cover popping open like an air brake/spoiler when driving down the road. I still have to trim the bottom of the bolt.
I don't know if this has been asked before, but do you plan on doing rear wheel skirts? If not already done.
Anyway, nice job with the bed cap cover. I like the way you have done it. Seems like your MPG's are higher too .
It's one of the last things I've been playing with. Don't want too many irons in the fire...because I won't have enough tape to keep it all on if something fails to hold.
Since the wet/rainy, cold weather is setting in, I think my 2x3 studs have been warping and changing the gaps on the hatch. There's been some rain intruding into the bed and it got me thinking on what might be the best way of eliminating the direct rain intrusion into the gap of the hatch and sides. I came up with some base board...about $12 worth. Used 4 strips of 4' each. Hopefully the sun won't beat them up too much over time.
A quick mockup fer measurements...
Screws every 6"...
Overlap...
Thinking about cutting up some strips of FRP into to reinforce the baseboard. It won't go all the way up to the sealing edge but just up the where the original gap begins. This should reinforce the baseboard to keep it from flipping up and ripping out of the screws.
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Oh...I had to redo the top fastener fer the access doors...went from the vertical slot to a horizontal slot. This allows me to pull the top gap cover down more before I lock the bottom of the access door in place.
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Got both the rail gap seals in place. It's projected to rain tomorrow and it will be a good test to see how well I've engineered this setup. I've also trimmed the 1"x2" supports that were sticking out the back of the hatch and painted the ends black.
Flattened out the lift brackets and secured them to the inside of the rail instead of the bottom side...
Put my hatch stops on the main support (where the lifts secure to) using 2 Strong Tie A12 brackets. My original ones were still the flat metal pieces that I had put on the rear portion of the main rails. If you weren't careful, it would bite you every time. Also, the rear window would snag on the stops when lowering the hatch.
Thinking about painting the right side black as well. At least it will match the left side.
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Some serious rain last night...hatch gap seals held up great! No leaks there. I did have some dripping from one of the access door hinges. Some Tyvek tape will take care of that.
Here's what the aero cap looks like painted black on the sides...with the access doors painted black, too!
I need to work on a tailgate seal where the rear plexiglass and tailgate meet. Need to keep the blow back from infiltrating that gap and gitting crud over everything in the bed. One solution was gonna involve drilling into the tailgate but I think I have something a little better than that. I'm gonna use 2 layers of tape that will stick together on the tailgate. The side profile will look similar the a lower case "h" and should be sturdy enough to stand on it's own. Maybe some rubber strips might help...we'll see.
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Glad to have a chance to jump in momentarily and say I always enjoy that this thread pops up on my subscription list reading.
With a standard bed topper (otherwise body conforming) I bought some weatherstripping for the tailgate to body interface as the dust was becoming too much. The topper door to tailgate isn't that well-sealed (just a flap), but the dust is down noticeably by the tailgate full seal.
Bam,she's startin' to look like 'KIT',so we'll have to keep a look out for David Hasselhoff, 'n make sure he doesn't drive off with her by mistake.
It's fun to watch your fabrication evolve.'looks like money in the bank!