Arduino controlled actuated grill block

[dcb]

What are you guys using to draw in 3d with?

[Daox]

I use SolidWorks, but thats because I get a copy through work.

[Daox]

Alright, this is the part where I ask for help because I have no idea why my circuit doesn't work. From everything I can tell, the program is working perfectly and the circuit outputs exactly what I want it to. The leads from the h-bridge to the actuator sit at 0V normally. When I trigger it one way I get 5V. When I trigger it the other way I get -5V on my meter. Sounds right to me. However, when I hook up the actuator to the leads, it just kinda twitches and doesn't go in or out real far at all. The h-bridge is rated for 5 amps, so its not like it can't handle the power. I'm kind of at a loss here as my electronics knowledge is sorely lacking. I'm sure you'll probably need more info and clarification, so ask away.

[dcb]

is the actuator rated for 12 volts perhaps?

[Daox]

When I hook it up directly to 5V it works just fine. I'm using an old computer power supply for my 5V.

[dcb]

What was the part number for the h-bridge? And what was the actuator out of?

[Daox]

The h-bridge is a tle5205-2. I got it in the P-TO220-7-11 case if that matters at all. The actuator is a power door lock actuator out of some car. I got it from a co-worker for free.

[dcb]

I think you want to be putting 12 volts on the supply (Vs) on that h-bridge.
Computer supply should have one of those too.

[lunarhighway]

either that or switch relays with your output signal to switch 12v to the actuator, but seeing you have -5 +5V that might not be as straightforward as when you'd have two signals

[jimepting]

Very interesting thread. I wish I had time to work on an active grill block. I have just done mine with tape on the top one on the Echo, and with removable screws on the bottom one. Keep a screwdriver in the car to remove the bottom one is Scangauge temp gets high.

jime