I did a little more work on the Metro this weekend.
I've stil had that LP generator mounted in the back, even though I haven't been using it. The Propane/Plug-In Hybrid setup worked well as a proof-of-concept, but in execution, it left a few things to be desired.
The main thing is that it is an engine and MAKES NOISE! Beyond, that, I got the generator in non-running condition, but never really got it to run quite how it was supposed to. I had also returned a few batteries to the Milwaukee Makerspace for this summer's Power Wheels Racing in Detroit.
Those things, combined with the fact that I was mostly working on the motorcycle this summer, meant that the Geo didn't get much use.
But as winter approaches, the cycle will go into storage, and I need some four-wheeled fossil-fuel-free transportation.
By removing the generator, it free's up some space for more batteries, so yesterday, I pulled it out.
Previously, I had used some bed frame to build the rack that the batteries went on, back when I originally had them in the cargo area. That bed-frame later became the suspension frame for the generator, so I needed some new material to mount batteries in the back.
I pulled out some angle iron, and spent some time cutting it to length, and bolting it into the car to span the spare tire well in the cargo area of the car. Once done, I loaded 5 batteries into the back, and threw chargers on them. I did NOT have additional battery cables (I'll still need to make some) nor do I yet have a top tie-down, but just putting the batteries in there lets me test location, suspension, and spacing.
Here's a side view of the car with 5 batteries in the back seat battery box, and an additional 5 in the cargo area. Ride height looks about right.
The main reason I want higher voltage isn't for speed (although that's not a bad side-effect...) but rather for range, and not discharging the batteries as deeply. The other thing is that there are some electronics that only operate at certain voltages. For example, this:
This is a salvaged 12V power supply that will run off either AC OR DC power, as long as that DC power is at least 110V. The 12V supply can then provide power to my 12V accessory battery. That battery was used when I got it, and never in great condition. Add the fact that it's a starting battery, NOT a deep-cycle and I should count myself lucky that it has performed as well as it has. (The car features daytime running lights. Good for safety, bad for the poor battery!)
A 15 amp 12V power supply should be more than enough to power the headlights and other 12v electrical loads.
While over at the
Milwaukee Makerspace today, I rigged the power supply up to house AC power to test the output.
While the initial output of the power supply was 12.5V, a quick adjustment of a potentiometer, just below the green power indicator light, showed that the device could output anywhere from 9.5 up to 14.5V!
I'll most likely rig it up to my accessory battery somewhere in the range of 13+V to act as a charger.
The power supply is whatever the opposite of weather-proof is. I was afraid to even have a beverage near it, as the entire thing is nothing but air-holes! I'll need to make sure it's protected from weather, but not completely sealed up so it doesn't overheat. The easiest way to do that may just be to mount it in the back of the car somewhere.
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