__________________ As I watch the old man walk on the sidewalk below my window, I think "Some day old man, I will be like you. So why not give me your coat?" Then I go downstairs to get his coat, but he's gone. Hey, maybe he was Zorro.
You might be an ecomodder if you wear black socks with crocs
Keep the great info coming Ben. I've been anxiously waiting for new posts from you and Paul.
You might be an ecomodder if you wear black socks with crocs
Keep the great info coming Ben. I've been anxiously waiting for new posts from you and Paul.
What are you doing up at this hour?!! Go to bed!
__________________ As I watch the old man walk on the sidewalk below my window, I think "Some day old man, I will be like you. So why not give me your coat?" Then I go downstairs to get his coat, but he's gone. Hey, maybe he was Zorro.
I just watched your video. Inginuity points - 10. McGuyver points - 10. Safety - 0.
Please just consider putting a big M/C on an adapter plate in place of your whole booster. You'll save weight and you won't risk killing yourself. It will end up being a lot cheaper than your pump/pvc and it won't cost you any electricity to run it.
The coffee can power brakes was just an experiment. I have not, nor am I planning on driving the car around with that setup.
I only rolled about 10 feet on my driveway playing around testing it. It does give more braking action then when there was no vacuum hooked up.
Could somebody give me more information on what it would take to swap out the brake booster for Manual Brakes, or have an adapter plate? I don't quite get it.
Check valves on a normal car are there because the engine isn't ALWAYS a vacuum source. Thus, that big vacuum resivoir can store up enough vacuum for one or two pulses even when you're drag racing. Not to mention, it keeps vacuum stored for use by climate control, egr, purge canister, and cruise control operations on applicable vehicles.
I don't think a check valve will help you unless you plan on cycling your pump.
If you hook your fishtank pump up to your vacuum gauge directly, how much does it measure? IE., if we take the leaky pump out of the equation?
20 inches of vacuum is only about -10psi. If Schultz manages to backpressure a booster, I'm sure he can figure out how to have +10 psi on it in a jiffy...
Perhaps a pump from a vehicle that had air brakes could be belt driven by your motor shaft and give you some help. Or perhaps you could run an a/c compressor instead and activate the clutch with your brakelights. Thus, you'd have regenerative braking braking assist! Whoa, think about that three times fast!
(A/C compressors count on oil in the system, so they wouldn't last forever without it. However, pick a common model like an GM R-4 or A-6 and you can find them all over the place.)
The coffee can power brakes was just an experiment. I have not, nor am I planning on driving the car around with that setup.
I only rolled about 10 feet on my driveway playing around testing it. It does give more braking action then when there was no vacuum hooked up.
Could somebody give me more information on what it would take to swap out the brake booster for Manual Brakes, or have an adapter plate? I don't quite get it.
You've got two options.
1) Find a master cylinder with a smaller piston bore. That'll give you more line pressure with less pedal effort. I suggest racing supply sources to find something like this. Summit racing shows as small as 3/4".
I concur that a PVC tube/endcaps reservoir would be better. Could you gang multiple pumps together?
