Boat tail project based on a single wheel trailer...

[BamZipPow]

A quick shot from behind and above...

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

Dimensions of the trailer is now 60" wide at the front, 45" wide in the rear, and 62" long (front of the extended sides to the rear).

The T-100's rear comes in at 72". I have to recalculate the gap between the rear of the truck and the front of the trailer again.

I'm not too sure if I should trim up the Coroplast that over hangs the bottom edge of the trailer platform or not. What a dilemma...

hey Bam,just now getting a look at project.Fun!
As to the coroplast,I'd be inclined not to cut it at all,and when time avails,add the luan mahagony plywood below it to plane out with the upward slope of the T-100's rear skirts section.
I know you've already boat-tailed them,and the tailpipe is trimmed accordingly,so maybe the 'skirts' on the trailer could have a radius (in plan view) to bring their leading edges into line with what's on the truck.'N just leave the truck alone.
Otherwise you'd have to relax the boat-tailing of the Toyota's skirts so they lined up with the trailers sides and add a tailpipe extension.And you already have PLENTY to do.
Anyway,that's what came to mind.
I think there's going to be quite a bit of cell-phone camera activity once you hit the road.

[BamZipPow]

So fer a future build...I was thinking...build a separate false top for the trailer so its form matches up with the aero cap. This false top would perform as the upper gap cover. It would store on top of the trailer when not in use. The current tub would be removed at this time. A new shaped tub with a sloping top would be in place by then.

To use it, I would slide it forward and attach the forward end to the back end of the aero cap main rails with two hinges. The rear of the false top would ride on top of the trailer with either sliders or rollers. I'd probably have to attach a safety cord to the rear so prevent it from taking off in the event the air gits up underneath it.

As the trailer rode up or down, the top would pivot at the aero cap rear hinges and allow the top to articulate up and down. Even though the pivot point of the trailer would be a different pivot point on the aero cap, it shouldn't be a problem with binding. I'll probably do a test build out of lightweight materials first.

[BamZipPow]

Mounted the rear tail lights on a pair of 4" L-brackets which I attached to the rear brackets. Installed the license plate with multiple supports so it shouldn't wiggle while I'm towing the trailer. There's nothing left on the tub now...so when I git the chance to pull it, I won't have to worry about the lights and license plate.







I could add in extra lights in the middle if I bolt in a support bar...

[BamZipPow]

So I had some more crazy ideas...

Fer the front amber light, I can cut a rectangular hole in the Coroplast and mount the light from the back. The amber side marker should still be very visible and it should reduce the amount of possible air disturbance from the marker light housing if it was surface mounted.

To reduce the length of gap cover from the truck to the trailer, I'm gonna install some hinged doors attached to the trailer that should reduce the amount of gap cover attached to the truck. I might be able to git away with a 12"-16" door. When I need access to the trailer hitch, the door swings open to reveal access. I'll probably have to use either bungee cord or some sort of pin lock to keep the doors secured. Gonna give this idea a shot in the morning.

[BamZipPow]

A quick mock up of some doors made from 18"x24" signs.

The bottom of the tire is 12" from the ground. The clearance from the front of the door to the bumper is about 2".

Door closed...


Door opened...


The bottom of the tire is now at 18" from the ground. The front of the door is just touching the rear bumper.

Door closed...

Door opened...


To secure the door from opening on it's own, I'm thinking about drilling a hole through the support from (once I build and attach them to the doors) so I can run a length of ½" PEX pipe through it and into the extended side vertical supports so it will lock it in place.

I'll probably add some reinforced brackets perpendicular to the inside of the doors so I can put a top to the doors.

The clearance from the front of the doors to the back of the tail lights is about 10" when the trailer is sitting level to the ground.

[BamZipPow]

Level ground side view...


Gonna bolt in a bottom crossbeam to keep the doors from folding inwards (steel plate and magnets to keep the edge close) and building a lid on top that will lock the doors from moving in or out on their own. The lid will be hinged in the back with a bi-fold hinge in the middle so it will clear the aero cap when opening the doors and the trailer is in place. The lid will have to be unlocked first before the doors can be moved and locked last. I wonder if this lid reduce the amount of water spray I git on the aero cap rear window or not. With the lid locking the doors in place, I shouldn't need to fab up the PEX locking mechanism.



Rear view...


Front view...


If I need to build in clear windows to keep law enforcement happy so they can see the rear plate, I can plan fer that.

[aerohead]

Bam,looks like you've out-guessed the potholes,driveway ramps,and railroad crossings.It would be hard to imagine a scenario where she'd see any binding in pitch.
In the five states I crossed out and back with my trailer (of which the trucks license plate was completely hidden by the gap-fillers),none of the constabulary seemed even remotely interested.I really don't think it will be an issue as long as the trailers plate is prominently displayed.
She should be 'go for launch' shortly.Fun!

[BamZipPow]

Got the door framed and mounted. I flattened my favorite Strong-tie A21 angle bracket to tie the frame together. The doors seem pretty sturdy and might not need a bottom crossbar setup. We'll find out soon enough...



The top crossbar will have brackets that will slide into the door frames. The back edge will be wedged under the tub lid and the front edge will be locked down with a pin clip. Hopefully it will be enough to keep them together.



I mounted the amber side markers from behind so it's not sticking out.

[BamZipPow]

A quick build of the extended lid. I still have more guides and bracing to build into the lid.





I know for peace of mind that I will have to install a lower metal brace to hold the lower portion of the doors in place. There will be another set of pin clips fer the door.

I'm gonna end up using a ton of those Strong-tie A21 brackets all over this project.