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Old 01-27-2012, 04:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Brake Downgrade?

Well i just wanna say hello all first. I like the site and im new to all this eco modding.

Im a tuner so usually im killing my gas millage. But i thought hey for all the mpg's ive killed why dont i try to balance out my damage with a civic tuned and built for gas millage AND speed!!

Mods: Bigger Motor (B16 over the stock DX), Bigger headers, AEM intake (small tube), Smaller throttle body (60mm downgraded to 56mm), Lowered, Tall transmission (3500rpm at 75 over stock 4500rmp)

Plans: Tune ECU to a higher AFR, lighter wheels, and much more

Question/though: Before i upgrade my brakes to bigger brakes in the front and rear, should i just leave them stock? My thought is the unsprung weight on my drivetran will decrease my MPG. If i had an EX civic i could downgrade and possibly save MPG?

Goal: To get to 32mpg like the stock motor had with my new B16 (no hypermiling just regular driving)


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Old 01-27-2012, 04:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Smaller brakes are better for mileage and acceleration.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you still have the DX brakes, you already have the smallest set up. The only lighter might be insight drums for the rear. Also there is not much (if any) benefit to bigger brakes, especially with normal or narrower tires.
If you have the B16 engine, try the Integra LS transmission. That is what I have and I am averaging 33ish MPG. with VERY short trips.
Avoid aftermarket intakes, they all sacrifice economy for high RPM power. Stock or even warm air intakes help.
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Get a 92-95 VX or CX transmission if it will work in your car. 3k at 70 MPH. First gen Insight wheels and Bridgestone RE92s would help a lot.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I believe the VX and CX transmissions only fit D-series motors, not the B-series that has been swapped into B16's car.

-soD
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Its very common for full-prep SM cars to downgrade brake diameters as far as possible to decrease weight (and upgrade pads significantly).

Also, its very possible to upgrade brakes as well as decrease weight. Aluminum hat rotors and aluminum calipers can easily drop a significant amount of weight off each corner of the car. Even when the rotor itself is larger.

I know something I will consider at some point is reducing the weight of the stock rotors. Some creative milling should be able to mimic the "hat" of a two piece rotor and drop a pound or two from each. Combine that with some aluminum calipers and you've got a pretty good eco-setup.

The first setup is what I would do given your situation. The DX brakes should be able to handle a B16. Plan on doing any trackdays?
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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being a long, long way from a Honda engine expert, I'm curious why you're upsizing the engine. Better factory tuning? Parts availability? More tuneable? Less load at a given cruising speed?
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It's not actually upSIZED, just up powered. Dual overhead cam, VTEC and tuned for more power. With the right gear ratios it could be a great dual-purpose setup - low rpm cruising, downshift and hammer it and it's another beast entirely.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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When I blew my B16, I was rather upset at the thought of having to drop a larger displacement engine in, especially one with less peak power output. Oddly, I found that I improved my mileage when I swapped for an LS motor. After doing some reading, I can only conclude that it's some combination of leaner burn and the fact that the B16 is oversquare and the LS is undersquare.

The old D series might have been better for these purposes, though there's probably a lot of room for improvement in the B16 if you're willing to tune for economy.
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[ ] [x] 36mpg - 150% EPA
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[ ] [ ] 42mpg - 175% EPA
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:55 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
When I blew my B16, I was rather upset at the thought of having to drop a larger displacement engine in, especially one with less peak power output. Oddly, I found that I improved my mileage when I swapped for an LS motor. After doing some reading, I can only conclude that it's some combination of leaner burn and the fact that the B16 is oversquare and the LS is undersquare.

The old D series might have been better for these purposes, though there's probably a lot of room for improvement in the B16 if you're willing to tune for economy.

I'm not surprised the LS swap helped mileage. It has way more torque and WAY less peak HP. The LS is also tuned for normal driving of a larger car, where the B16 is tuned for sport driving a light car. When I did my B16 swap years ago, I found the gearing to low for normal driving. I would often start in second gear and be in fifth by 25 MPH. Unfortunately that put cruising at 60 MPH way up at 4400 RPM. Yes really! Since third gear was really messed up by the previous owner, I tried an LS transmission I got off EBAY for $100. I don't love the combination but, it works well enough for normal driving. 65 MPH is now about 3000 RPM, and if I flog it I almost can keep it on the big lobes. I don't flog it any more, by the way.
The thing that bothers me the most about working for economy with a B16 powered Civic is I can not get the ECU to go into fuel cut-off while off throttle. I believe I read somewhere, Honda did this on purpose too reduce emissions/per volume.

Sorry I just realised I went way off topic.


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