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Old 03-27-2015, 03:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM View Post
Hi, does this also happen when using the ignition to shut the engine off?
Yes.

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Old 03-27-2015, 04:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
I spliced into the injector wire under the hood as you did and it works quite well, much better than into the pgm-f1 where the voltage drain was too high. However, I've found the kill switch only useful for short trips. Here is a photo of the wire from this thread.

Do you mean by shutting off the main relay? That's how I have mine, I cut the ground to it on a switch.

What negative does this have, just use more battery power an make the alt work more to charge?
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Old 03-27-2015, 04:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbramWagner View Post
Do you mean by shutting off the main relay? That's how I have mine, I cut the ground to it on a switch.

What negative does this have, just use more battery power an make the alt work more to charge?
Yes, and yes.

Using the pgm-f1 dropped .05 volts from the battery (with the engine off) each time the relay turned back on. Thus 20 switches dropped the battery from 12.8 to 11.8 volts. Moving the kill switch from the pgm-f1, to the main injector wire shown in the photo above, minimized the voltage drop.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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My idea was to not run more wires than necessary.

I fully understand all the other ways of getting this done.

I have used the switch several times today and have learned the following:

If I just press it long enough to stall out the engine then let go it doesn't throw a CEL.

The only way I was able to get a CEL again was to keep the button pressed then let the clutch out in gear for engine braking. There's no need to ever do that because if you need engine braking you might as well just ride out DFCO.

I am going to leave my mod the way it is unless I have issues, which so far so good.

Again, I will get a pic of where I did the wiring. It's all right behind the glove box.

I call the connector the Brown Bus Bar because if you pull it off the harness *taped to it* you'll see what I mean when you look inside it.
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Old 03-29-2015, 08:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Today I moved the IAC power wire off the grey plug under the intake over to the blue plug.

On that blue plug there's a group of Black/Yellow wires. Those are all +12v.

Once I moved the IAC wire there, no more CEL and no wires run through the firewall!

I was able to move the pin without crawling under the car.

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