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Old 03-30-2017, 09:23 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I believe what I posted about the SR motor is pure SR. The BAS is partly induction and partly SR.

Last I checked, a completed board was $350.00 or so. A picKit was over $100.00 and I know nothing about the programmer stuff.

I was hoping to not spend so much to get a controller up and running. This doesn't include the voltage buck/boost/charger feature either.

I'm on a very limited income and rely on buying and parting out things in the states for supporting my Alt energy lifestyle. I took a chance on buying the Leaf stuff and not much activity there.

My voltage right in the beginning will be 120 full charge. Then, was to be doubled for the high speed. I have soldered for years but not a steady diet. I could probably handle that. With all the talk of a kit on Paul's thread, I was looking forward to that.

Guess I have to sit back and figure out my next move. If I could get the motor up to speed, I could mount it to my sawmill and saw lumber for sale. At least I have the trees paid for.

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Old 03-30-2017, 10:51 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldinCR View Post
I believe what I posted about the SR motor is pure SR. The BAS is partly induction and partly SR.
That is my impression as well

Quote:
Last I checked, a completed board was $350.00 or so. A picKit was over $100.00 and I know nothing about the programmer stuff.
The board at $350 includes the pre-programmed PIC and Attiny, as well as the other controller/low voltage parts you need. The high power stuff - the IGBTs, ring cap, heat sinks, bus bars, terminals ... you would need to purchase and assemble.

The PICKIT and AVRisp (programming stuff) .. and the C compiler and a windows PC or laptop .. is only required if you want to assemble and solder the board yourself.

Be warned - soldering the ring cap onto buss bars and copper sheet is not easy. It takes a big soldering iron, or a torch, something with a lot of heat.

I guess it depends on how many you want to make. Paul is pretty flexible. You could ask if he would supply the pre-programmed chips, and the surface mount parts. You could get all of the rest from the OEM controllers. Solder it together.

Quote:
My voltage right in the beginning will be 120 full charge.
That would be good enough for low speed. I'd get it running without the boost to start with.

Quote:
Guess I have to sit back and figure out my next move. If I could get the motor up to speed, I could mount it to my sawmill and saw lumber for sale. At least I have the trees paid for.
The saw mill likely does not have an encoder. It only needs to have a few pulses per revolution.

If you can get it running in field oriented (vector) then you can let it come up to max speed before sawing lumber. The rotating blade stores some energy. It may work OK without the boost converter.
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Old 03-31-2017, 09:55 AM   #63 (permalink)
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thingstodo
Thanks for all the information. Would you have time to go to another website and read a 10 page thread that a guy modded a Honda IMA Controller to run at lower voltage. This was my plan to copy, but, then, I came back to Paul's thread and now i'm getting lost.

Maybe you could pick up some ideas to explain to me what the guy is doing. I already have the Honda Controller in Florida.

DIY Electric Car Forums Site Home The thread is Honda IMA under the controllers section. He made up another board to do what he needed and got it to fit inside the original Honda case. It is smaller than Paul's controller case and doesn't use that big ring cap.

Only if you have time, is all I ask.
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Old 03-31-2017, 11:40 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HaroldinCR View Post
Would you have time to go to another website and read a 10 page thread that a guy modded a Honda IMA Controller to run at lower voltage. This was my plan to copy, but, then, I came back to Paul's thread and now i'm getting lost.

Maybe you could pick up some ideas to explain to me what the guy is doing. I already have the Honda Controller in Florida.

DIY Electric Car Forums Site Home The thread is Honda IMA under the controllers section. He made up another board to do what he needed and got it to fit inside the original Honda case. It is smaller than Paul's controller case and doesn't use that big ring cap.
Sure I will look at the thread. That's something I can do from my couch instead of getting up and actually DOING something!

The retrofit controllers I will be doing ... hmm .. maybe that's confusing. I am taking the brainboard out of existing industrial variable frequency drives and replacing it with Paul's controller board. So the caps, buss bars, IGBTs, heat sinks ... that's all from the existing VFDs. The control and interface is from Paul's board. Plus a DC/Dc converter to power up Paul's board. And Paul's board drives the IGBTs, interfaces to the hall effect current sensors, and monitors the buss voltage (if I get that part worked out).

Now that's out of the way - I will read the thread about fitting a new board into the Honda tonight. I suspect that he made his own design. Just a different way of skinning the cat instead of using Paul's board, and he is interfacing the Honda power electronics to his new board, like I plan to on my retrofit controllers, but I will see!
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Old 04-01-2017, 05:07 PM   #65 (permalink)
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I read through the 10 pages last night. I believe that Tomdb transplanted a new control board onto the Honda power electronics.

I have not gone through the pictures as yet. I'm sure there are more details there that I missed.

If I were to guess (I do that a lot) I would say that using Tomdb's board would be similar to what I am planning to do with Paul's control board on my old industrial VFDs.

I would expect that Tomdb's method would work for you. I have not looked through the many links, so I don't know how easy it will be.

I am quite confident that the method that I plan to use will also work for you. Except that I have not already done it. And it is quite possible that Paul's board will not fit into the Honda IMA enclosure.

The RING cap on Paul's controller is part of the power section. It pretty much covers the 3 IGBTs, the hall effect sensors, and the heat sink. The Control board is on the one end.

I'll pull my control boards out of their packing and take a couple of pictures tonight
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Old 04-01-2017, 05:57 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure what you said is all correct. Tomdb designed a basic control board. I'm sure his response to me (hmincr) about not knowing electronics and testing would probably be his reason to not sell me a board. He does show the board, but, nothing about components. I haven't approached him about it.

I'm thinking the Honda Civic is a lower voltage system. If there was a way to add the buck/boost daughter board to Paul's board, and then use the Honda power parts, or some higher powered stuff from another controller I have, I might be able to work out the controller, with lots of help from time to time.

I would be game to try the SMD soldering, simply because I can't afford to buy a completed board from Paul. I'm already into this mess for $4000.00, on CC, until I sell some stuff to make big payments.

Thingstodo, anything you can come up with, information wise, would be VERY greatly appreciated.

Edit: The other controller I have handles 310v @26Ahr battery input. Haven't found the amp rating for mosfets or IGBTs, whichever they are. It is from a plug in hybrid which is rated at roughly 40 miles range on battery only. Will hopefully know more on 19 days.

Last edited by HaroldinCR; 04-01-2017 at 06:10 PM..
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Old 04-02-2017, 03:17 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldinCR View Post
I'm thinking the Honda Civic is a lower voltage system. If there was a way to add the buck/boost daughter board to Paul's board, and then use the Honda power parts, or some higher powered stuff from another controller I have, I might be able to work out the controller, with lots of help from time to time.

I would be game to try the SMD soldering, simply because I can't afford to buy a completed board from Paul. I'm already into this mess for $4000.00, on CC, until I sell some stuff to make big payments.
Here are the pictures I took of Paul's populated controller board, with a T square so you can see the size.

EDIT: 10.5 inches long, 4 inches wide, just over 1 inch thick









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Last edited by thingstodo; 04-02-2017 at 04:45 PM.. Reason: Add measurements
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:35 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Been busy and totally missed thingstodo's latest post. Thanks for the measurements.

Finally, hopefully, the correct altermotor was sent to a pickup point. Son will retrieve it Monday. Trying to find a bad battery with the electronics in it, and a cable with ends that's NOT cut, for a reasonable price. THAT may solve some of the questions we have for Pauls controller circuit board-programming.
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Old 04-08-2017, 02:29 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Youtube seemed to think I would want to see this. Thanks. Youtube.



Did we talk about this one yet?

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Old 04-08-2017, 10:09 AM   #70 (permalink)
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The video showing the total Buick car and the HV battery I had held off posting until I had received a bad or low capacity battery with electronics. The battery is 1.3 Kwh I believe, so, of not much use except for an e-bicycle, maybe. I would like to have parts in hand before guessing what they do.

I don't have any funding for what I do, and my for sale items are not selling, to give me a little funding for my projects. A battery system goes for $600.00 +, so that is out for me, so that leads me to Paul's controller circuit board and modding an OEM power section to work with Paul's board.

The second video showing just the altermotor, we did discuss parts of it earlier in this thread, while it was in Paul's controller thread.

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