Crank pulley removal - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

AndrewJ · 06-02-2008, 10:14 PM

So I'm trying to get my crank pulley off and so far I've accomplished the following:

1) Wear myself out

2) Bend the hell out of my biggest screwdriver

3) Nearly break my 3/8 rachet.

And still the crank pulley remains firmly attached to the car.

I have been attempting to hold the pulley still with my big screwdriver (jammed into one of the holes, holding against the oilpan flange)
Meanwhile a helper applies force to the crankshaft pulley bolt using my 3/8 rachet and a 2' cheater bar.
Once force is applied, I tap on it with a hammer. (cheap impact driver)

So, does anyone else have any suggestions for me?

I'll probably end up buying a 1/2 breaker bar tomorrow. But I'd really like to avoid having to rent a impact wrench and air compressor.

koihoshi · 06-02-2008, 10:31 PM

Without immobilizing the crank about the only way to do it is with a strong impact gun. They're never in there anything beyond "OMG THIS IS HARD TO GET OFF!" which is some ungodly amount of ft lbs. I had to use a strong impact gun to get mine out. You're taking it off ENTIRELY? Are you taking off alternator/powersteering/ac entirely too?

Johnny Mullet · 06-02-2008, 10:37 PM

Air powered impact is the only way to win. It also helps to put a small amount of silicone on the bolt when re-installing it to prevent any oil leakage.

AndrewJ · 06-02-2008, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by koihoshi

You're taking it off ENTIRELY? Are you taking off alternator/powersteering/ac entirely too?

I'm just taking it off to get at my leaky water pump. It'll be going right back on once that's all taken care of.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

Air powered impact is the only way to win.

Grrr. That's what I was afraid of. That's gonna set me back....

I'm almost contemplating driving it to a shop to have that one stinkin' bolt removed. It's not like I even need the crank pulley to drive it back home (I am running the alternator beltless after all)

Daox · 06-02-2008, 10:51 PM

Johnny is right on. An impact is pretty much necessary. If you don't have access to an air compressor electric impacts work alright too. Maybe they rent them locally?

Red · 06-02-2008, 10:53 PM

An impact gun is the only way I've seen them come off

MetroMPG · 06-02-2008, 11:29 PM

I'm lucky my local garage has been pretty good about stuff like this - I've dropped by once or twice with uncooperative nuts/bolts and they've run the air hose out and freed it for me on the spot. Must be my puppy dog eyes.

Johnny Mullet · 06-02-2008, 11:36 PM

Yes! An electric impact would also do the job!

digitaldissent · 06-03-2008, 01:53 AM

don't drive it with the bolt out, if that pulley moves and the timing belt jumps you have bent valves on your hands.

I have replaced a few Honda heads in my time, pretty easy but when your paying it costs money

and yeah as johnny said I have only seen those come off with an impact gun

adam728 · 06-03-2008, 09:04 AM

Impact, or a BIG breaker bar. I've done em on 2 Toyota trucks with a large 1/2" breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe. Hard to get enough room to swing the whole thing though. 200+ ft-lbs plus Michigan rust equals "damn that's tough!".

Whoops · 06-03-2008, 10:40 PM

If you have not purchased a air wrench, here is what I have done on my 89 Honda.

I removed the cover to the flywheel. Get a hardened metric bolt in the thread that is used on the clutch pressure place. Put the bolt in from the pan side. It will thread in about 4-5 threads. Rotate the engine until this bolt is up against the transmission housing. Get a 3' piece of pipe and stand on it.

I purchased a 1/2 inch, 18 inch breaker bar and several extensions to get it beyond the edge of the fender. Otherwise I could not get enough torque on it to get it to come loose.

I reverse everything to put it back on, but I only use about a 1 1/2 feet on the pipe extension and pull it as tight as I can.

Best of Luck to you.

AndrewJ · 06-04-2008, 01:25 AM

Got it with a 1/2" breaker bar. Bent the hell out of my screwdriver, but the thing finally came off.

Nden · 06-04-2008, 05:22 AM

yup breaker bar & cheater pipe only thing thats worked for me. my 12gallon compressor and impact gun did NOTHING to budge it. the toughest thing is to secure the flywheel BEFORE using that breaker-bar. PB blaster/wd-40 soak it first a few times also.

khawks · 06-27-2008, 06:45 PM

For next time...You can buy a crank pulley holding tool for about $15 for the Hondas. There are two varieties depending on year. For my 97 civic hx its a 50mm hex thing that you can attach a 1/2" ratchet to. My 1/2" air impact would not remove the crank pulley either, had to use the breaker bar. The other variety has pins that fit into the crank pulley.

ttoyoda · 06-27-2008, 07:11 PM

I just put the car in 5th gear and have someone step on the brakes. Crank pully does not move.

SVOboy · 06-27-2008, 07:12 PM

1/2" air gun at the shop took mine right off.

wagonman76 · 06-27-2008, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttoyoda

I just put the car in 5th gear and have someone step on the brakes. Crank pully does not move.

Id be leery of doing it that way. Youd probably be putting more ft lbs through the engine/tranny than what its rated for. Just my opinion anyway.

ttoyoda · 06-27-2008, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Id be leery of doing it that way. Youd probably be putting more ft lbs through the engine/tranny than what its rated for. Just my opinion anyway.

I had the same feeling at first. Then I figured that any shaft in the tranny, and the halfshafts, was much, much thicker than the 1/2 inch drive extension I was using, so my conclusion was that the tranny was stronger than my 1/2 inch extension. I could still be wrong, though.