Diagnosing Sounds

[RH77]

I'll be honest -- I'm pretty obsessive with sounds the car makes. I see them as signs and symptoms of potential problems.

So, I have 2 that worry me a bit. I know it's hard to diagnose in this format, but it's worth a try (maybe someone has had the same experience)...

Sound set #1: Clicking on accel/decel. Accelerating from a standing start, I hear a click from either side of the front wheels. The clicking occurs whenever there's a change in torque -- lifting off of the gas, or downshifting without rev-matching. In some cases (say during light acceleration) one side clicks, followed by the other. It is more pronounced that a year ago.

Sound #2: Noisy pulley. From a cold start without EBH, there's a loud metallic metal-to-metal sound from a pulley (I think) on the driver's side of the engine bay. It disappears when warm. Cause for concern? The timing belt is relatively new (40K miles about 3 years ago -- new idler and water pump, so it may be an accessory belt pulley of sorts).

-Rick

[TestDrive]

With regard to sound set #1. If you mean a single click at a change in torque, it might be the CV-joints.

If "clicking" means multiple clicks at a change in torque, I've no idea.

[Johnny Mullet]

The clicking noise is most likely the CV joints, but it is so much easier to pop new axles in. If the clicking noise is very obvious on take off especially while turning, then change them out.

Noise #2 can be pinpointed by removing the belt or belts, then start it up cold. If it's quiet with a certain belt off, then you narrow it down.

[RH77]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

The clicking noise is most likely the CV joints, but it is so much easier to pop new axles in. If the clicking noise is very obvious on take off especially while turning, then change them out.

Noise #2 can be pinpointed by removing the belt or belts, then start it up cold. If it's quiet with a certain belt off, then you narrow it down.

Good to know. There's a "Left Click" and "Right Click" that both sound on torque changes (very close to one another in time) -- it's likely a side-effect of the harder shifts (tightening the kickdown cable). The philosophy was that the trans would last longer if it didn't slip and firmly shifted -- the concern was the rest of the components would be taxed (which are likely cheaper?) At what point is it absolutely time to replace the CV joints -- on near-failure, or beforehand?

I'll have to pull some belts and see what happens. I assume each pulley has a sealed bearing that is sensitive to temperature and the remaining lube available.

Thanks guys!

-Rick

[metroschultz]

CV axles will cost the same whether replaced at failure or before.
However, if you lose one on the highway you will pay a wrecker for the ride home.
If I know I have one failing I will keep an eye on it and replace when I feel doom is imminent

[roflwaffle]

XaBazillion on the CVs. If you're a true penny-pincher you can remove 'em, undo the boot, clean out the old dirty grease, squeeze some clean grease into the bearings to push more of the dirty grease out, clean it up one last time, and put in some new grease, maybe even semi-synthetic or synthetic. Even my newer one (less than 10k miles), will click when I turn the wheels sharply right after starting it up in the cold. Within about a block or so it'll be fine but I can hear the metal on metal during the extremes.