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Old 02-09-2017, 08:20 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79 View Post
Can the welder be oriented side to side ,or is it too big? If it is to big use this template to re form your shape.

You stated that the welder is taller than normal to clear the gooseneck ball. Do you tow GN?
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At first the wideband O2will teachyou when the computer is programed to do things like enrichment. You will see at what (") of vac.it goes rich. It may also go off how fast the needle moves. Your best mpg will b the result of maintaining the highest average vac. and the highest possible vac to maintain speed . The 2nd part is adjusting the throttle ever so slightly to account for even the smallest changes in grade.
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OP questioned wether or not a 1ton was nessasary.
It sounds like a 1ton may be almost light duity for the lashings you give it . 3000lbs in the bed for welding gear on bord. And you leave home what you can! So this means that its probably closer to 4000lbs on bord +travel trailer. You have not stated any info on theTT just gussing from the TT in the pic . AC normally centered on TT so about 22' at 250/foot =5500lbs + gear. At 10% tongue weight thats at least 4550lbs load+ truck on thr rear axel without weight distribution system. The full of fule rear axle weight would have to be under 2500lbs for single wheel stock 245/75R16 are 3200ish lbs each.
Never guess with safety always scale the rig . Find out how much things change with and without trailer you could find that 550lbs tongue is closer ot 900lbs on the tires with weight transfer off the front.
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Free spin hub kit. You have a center disconnect stock but everything is still spinning and that will burn fule. Just make shure to put it in 4x4 atleast one a month to keep the berings rotated and lubed.
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Synthetic everything

the 3000 lbs is an over estimate. i know the welder alone is 1500lbs, the bed frame that came with it is something like 2"x6" thick wall square steel. too much really for what its needed for. and it weighs a lot in itself. often times 50 lbs of rod, 100 lbs of cables, and tools i never weighed. plus boxes.

my trailer is a 30' bumper pull. 8000 lbs empty, 10,000 weight rating. i haven't measured the tongue weight but the manual says 1000 lbs. i do use a weight distributing hitch when towing.

when empty the truck squats maybe an inch. with the welder as well maybe half that... the overload springs really come into play there.


anyway. i don't have any gooseneck trailers. and the previous owner had a ball in his bed and built the frame around it. which just fits into any 8' bed. i put it in there when i bought the welder, then used it to build some corrals while the winter was hindering jobs. then i got a deal working inside for decent wage and am rather comfortable, but not making anywhere near as much welding pipe... but i am pretty comfortable working in a climate controlled facility... so...

currently the welder is sitting at home. ill go down there as soon as i get a day off. do some measurements of the welder and gear so i can get a better idea of what i want to do. I'm pretty sure it will fit transverse in the bed. i see quite a few of the same welder mounted that way in other rigs.

i like the gull wing idea. my first thoughts where to have a hinge mount at the top of the cab and tilt up. but you would have to open it pretty far to reach the controls as well as allow sufficient airflow for cooling. i do want to build a rod oven using the coolant from the welder. but thats another deal....

I'm going to go pick up all synthetic lubes today while I'm in town. i gotta get groceries anyway. fridge has been empty for a few days now...


so here is some pictures. the grille block i promised the other day. not much other than cardboard cut out, wrapped with duct tape and zip tied on.

and my dash app.

the large left is inst mpg, smaller left is average and small left lower is over what the big instant reads. never goes over 25mpg...

and large right is ign timing, smaller is "vacuum", actually throttle position. and small lower right is calculated load. and small upper middle is coolant temp.

this alone has helped with economy. for reasons unknown there is no inst eco in the overhead console, only avg. and since its been under 30 most mornings my economy hasn't been great. i do have some oil pan heaters ordered. i figure one for the engine and one for the transmission. would definitely help with my imagining no oil in the bearings and lifters when its cold...

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"20+ from a gas one ton!? INCONCEIVABLE!!!"

-Every other forum i tried to state my intents...

Total spent on mods. :$440($200 was oil. So take it or leave it)
Total returned from 10mpg baseline :$167
miles since i started ecomodding :3315 miles

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Old 02-09-2017, 09:37 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparkeysmall View Post
I was googling toyota's hsd and diddnt get much farther than the system the prius uses. If i could bolt on a cheap used inline drive unit i would be all giggles.
The operating principle for transverse-engined FWD applications like the Prius and for longitudinal-engined RWD ones such as the Lexus LS600h is roughly the same, and there are also the Hino 300 Hybrid trucks which also have a real gearbox (IIRC it's a clutchless 6-speed AMT) along the HSD setup.


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Anyway the hybrid drive is most likely that last thing ill do. The sheer cost is the limiting factor.
Indeed. BTW would you eventually consider something like the BAS-Hybrid setup to provide some mild level of regenerative braking and electric drive assist?
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
i like the gull wing idea.
Good enough for me.



The other one opens like a 1940s Buick or 1950s International Harvester hood. The hinge/latch parts from a Buick hood would hold a light-weight aerocap and the whole thing would lift off.

Else you could do the front half and use a Dodge Magnum hatch at the back.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:47 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Is it possible to leave the outer wheels of the duals at home, that would be a savings of about 160lbs roughly of rotating weight
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:05 PM   #25 (permalink)
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My trailer weighs about a ton empty.
It's 26 feet long tandem axle, deck is 18ft long 8' 3'' wide deck and should carry 8,000lb for a total weight of about 10,000lb.
8,000lb empty to get 10,000lb of capacity sound a little extreme.
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:16 PM   #26 (permalink)
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little jona - '91 Dodge D 250 first gen cummins LE
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OilPan
Sounds like the confusion is a flat deck equipment trailer vs a camper used as a residence. My 33'x96" 5er was 10,000lbs empty and 16,000(almost 500lbs /foot loaded) going down the road with a family of 3's possessions for 23,000 gross . A 26'x250lbs /foot=6500lbs. Add some for the wide body version. For comparison a U-Haul Auto transport (car trailers) was 1950lbs for the old orange and 2200lbs for the newer 4" wider galvanized (info is dated circa 2000)with a 350lbs tongue weight for both. Was a real pain in the a $$ to take off/put on when the jack was damaged. As for deck length they could bearly hold a 130" wheel base, full size extended cab long bed was to long to fit.

Sparkeys mall or is it Sparkey small
I like the idea of a side opening(gull wing )Aero Tonto cover. The only problem I have with it is running with a load taller than the Tonto with it hinged at the top of the cab I can put a full 1ton pallet of wood pellets in without having to remove the Tonto.

For some reason the sight uploaded the pic upside-down[edit fixed].
Part of the design consept was to use the cover as a wing to divert air around the nose of a trailer. By blocking the cap in an open position.


I would advise agenst EOC (engine off costing) unless your transmission is rated for flat towing with the trans in neutral (not the t-case) . Reason: no lubricant engine off = front pump off. This practice is fine with a manual transmission.

Grill block looks like a good prototype. If more heat can be handled block the 2 holes in the bumper. They are for extra cooling something that was introduced on the 2nd gen Cummins. A good tell if you can handle more blockage would be the %of lockup on the electrical fan cluch. A quick Google showed the macanical bi-metal on/off and the electrical variable lock up for 99 v10, so you'll have to check it out. If the fan is not engaging it can handle more... if it is thean back off a few sq" at a time to get it to not engage.

Congratulations on the inside work.nice in winter but can be hell in summer.
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Last edited by gumby79; 02-09-2017 at 06:31 PM.. Reason: Fix up side down pic
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:36 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I thought about taking off the inner duals. If i removed the outer i would have a massive gap between the body and tire. Alot of dead air space. Only problem i can see with leaving the outer dual is load on the bearings. Its a beefy axle, but still not a straight load on the axle.

I am going to build rear skirts and cover the wheels. Im thinking about using lexan/plexiglass. So it doesnt look like an old buick goin by.

-

My thoughts for gull wing where to have it open at each side. Perhaps split down the middle or each third. Also having the ability to open like gumby79's would be good for loading/unloading.

I had the idea of also making it able to tilt up to divert the wind hitting the camper. And fold down sides to make it into a full camper shell when needed.

-

Its just sparkeysmall. Some name ive gone by since halo 1 came out.
Edit: after rereading the question its sparkey-small.

-

I picked up some of the synthetic oil today. I cleaned em out of 75w90. Got engine oil And was too tired to look for tranmsission and t-case oil. So far its been a $216 hit.

Will change asap.


Also i have the oil heaters on the way. Should be here in a few days.
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"20+ from a gas one ton!? INCONCEIVABLE!!!"

-Every other forum i tried to state my intents...

Total spent on mods. :$440($200 was oil. So take it or leave it)
Total returned from 10mpg baseline :$167
miles since i started ecomodding :3315 miles


Last edited by Sparkeysmall; 02-10-2017 at 12:16 AM.. Reason: Re reading previous post.
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:50 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
No idea why you didn't just Edit->Delete the 2nd post???

I like slowmover's posts but this:

...is pretty cryptic. I think it may be what I called 'use case'.

Still wanting to see the layout, so I can suggest gull-wing doors over the tools in the front of the bed.
Does this truck offset operating/ownership expense by generating income directly or indirectly. Appears a yes, to both. IRS deductible work related miles. That alone pays fuel penalty. Obviates changes not related to reliability and longevity. Chasing rainbows by major changes. Not cost or time effective.

OP, you do need a weight distribution hitch. Mandatory. Trailer tongue weight does not equate to weight of cargo in bed. It's simply a static measurement. Hitch needs to return most or all of steer axle weight to same value as when unhiched.

The rdefayette bed cover is still a best option. Same for highest quality tires and shocks. Michelin and Bilstein. Eliminate steering slop (new column shaft and outwards to wheels all new). Focus on electrical. All new grounds, etc. All new wiring a better course of action than the rest of what is suggested. Days out of service is a direct contributor to loss of income.

The longer this truck lasts is the moneymaker. Not otherwise.

As to losing truck and getting car: A Dodge Charger/V6 is fully capable of handling a 5000-lb equipment trailer. More than can be carried by truck. Solo, 27-mpg without trying. Etc.
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Last edited by slowmover; 02-10-2017 at 06:59 AM..
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Old 02-10-2017, 05:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
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little jona - '91 Dodge D 250 first gen cummins LE
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Agreed 100% WD hitch . I hate seeing some one going down the road spotting aircraft . My life is in your hands. Play nice by the book.. Some people try to compensate by making tail heavy trailer = tail wags the dog, some just drive at 45mph to compensate for the tail wagging the dog, others wreck No good. The smart ones use weight distribution and proper trailer loading.
Vary glad to hear that sparkeysmall is a user.
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Wile you have the welder back home weigh the truck then get a weight with the welder. Front axel ,rear axle , and combind.
Do the same with the trailer. truck front , reaf ,jack, front , rear. I have gone as far as comparing left to right as well.

Quote:
OP, you do need a weight distribution hitch. Mandatory. Trailer tongue weight does not equate to weight of cargo in bed. It's simply a static measurement. Hitch needs to return most or all of steer axle weight to same value as when unhiched
I would say empty... as loading close to 1ton in the bed can unload the front quite a bit. Especially if the welder is set back against the gate as many ranchers in my region do for easy access.
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Best mpg : 29.3mpg 97mi 3.311usg 7/27/16



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Old 02-10-2017, 09:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Yes. My plan is to move as much weight as i can towards the front as possible. Im a bit of a suspension nut and like balance and ride comfort as much as handling. With the current lay out the welder and tanks sits right on the rear axle. And all the cable and work table are by the tailgate. I want to get reels for the cables. To sit as close to the transverse mounted welder as possible. Oxy tank at an angle behind the welder/under the cable reels. And acet tank somewhere around there that seems fit.

Im all about even distribution. The ride when the welder was in is rather wallowey around back. Not quite like a porsche. But still not even.

-

Im not against putting the weld equiptment in a trailer and using a car. But, from the math i can do. That may be more expensive to find a decent charger and get a trailer. And i wouldnt be able to move the camper at a whim. Ive seen enough issues dealing with movers to not even bother. You want something done right do it yourself. Im the type that never goes to a mechanic. I aint payin $100hr for some bleh to tell me my vehicle is garbage and needs everything replaced.

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Anyway.

I folded in my sideview mirrors today. You dont realize how awesome they are untill your turning your head every 5 seconds. I was thinking i could get some of those bubble stick on mirrors to attach to the side of the mirror so i could still see behind. But they dont fold in enough to be able to.

Perhaps some convex mirrors set inside will do the trick.

-

I was sitting here thinking last night about getting some anti stiction oil and putting a dose of that everywhere i can find. Ive heard of it used in motorcycle forks and works a charm.

I looked it up and found that yes, they do make such oil for diesel engines to free up injectors. But its $25 a quart. But aparently a few ounces can do wonders for smoothing out cylinder walls and lifter bores. If i could slip some of that in the transmission/tcase and differental and see some improvements it might be worth it. I guess its worth a try for science's sake. Maybe even the powersteering system as well. Surely it wont harm any of the seals in other bits as its fluid designed for use in engine oil.

Ill put a tally of $'s spent vs $'s saved against my baseline of 10 mpg in my signiture. Of course its more about driver training rather than mechanical modifications. So far on this tank ive been averaging almost 11. Perhaps the grill block is helping some. Maybe a half mile right now. Then again i wont know for sure until i fill up again and do some calculator math.

Oh. And im allready way ahead of ya. Got bilstiens picked out allready. Once i put bilstiens on my jeep a few years ago i was amazed by the ride improvement over the oem style shocks.

And ill get new tires when these are throwing wires on the fenders. (Im not that bad, but you get the point.)

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"20+ from a gas one ton!? INCONCEIVABLE!!!"

-Every other forum i tried to state my intents...

Total spent on mods. :$440($200 was oil. So take it or leave it)
Total returned from 10mpg baseline :$167
miles since i started ecomodding :3315 miles

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