Elcon chargers
 

I've decided on the charger I'm getting and I'm not concerned with balancing at this point. I was talking to some people over at another forum and they recommended against balancing, as it's unnecessary. HOWEVER, a BMS is in the future.

I'm getting either an Elcon 1500 or elcon 2500 charger. I had a question regarding the charge curves and such. First, what the heck is the charge curve? And second, does anyone know what the charge information should be for nissan leaf cells?

No other answers yet, so I'll take a shot. According to evtv.me with successive charges the capacity goes up for a while, then starts that long downhill slide.

http://d2ojs0xoob7fg0.cloudfront.net...5.06.16-PM.png
EVTV Friday Show - January 20, 2015

Don't ask me why. :)

how are the cells configured? ah and voltage?

FYI, were I to order an elcon, I would probably add external can bus control and do my own profile with a microcontroller.

I have 9 modules at 8.4 volts per battery. That's 75 volts total. 60 a/h

Information was retreived from http://www.hybridautocenter.com/HAC4...new&Itemid=605

Which is actually where I bought the batteries from. Right down the road. Awesome guy.


I guess I'm still confused. I understand the basics of the charge/discharge curve, but how does it pertain to the charger? When I'm ordering a charger, how and why do they program it? Don't they have a database of charge curves for certain battery chemistry?

I don't really understand the elcon profiles or ordering, which is why I would ensure maximum flexibility. FYI, EVTV suggested 4.1v, not 4.2, and on my actual leaf it is recommended to only charge to 80%/discharge to 20% as much as possible for battery life (I don't know exactly what 80% means though, the car just does it).

You call elcon and tell them what your battery pack is: how many of what cells. They do the math and sell you the (generally) correct profile. you get a batch of different settings higher and lower. Your bms fine tunes the charge unless you are a dinosaur like me and run bms-less. There are some fussy points but only if you know more about your situation than they do (rare). 80% of the time they are dead on, or within a settings different.