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Old 08-03-2017, 04:12 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
The parasitic losses while in V4 mode are less than the parasitic losses of the vehicle in V8 mode. The inertia of the pistons at a given speed does not change when you fire those cylinders. However, the side loading on them increases.

The pumping losses are increased in all 8 cylinders when the vehicle switches to V8 mode.
What's wrong? Press the gas harder when it goes into V8 mode, then it'll be more efficient.

The point of a hybrid system or supercharger/turbocharger is to add power efficiently, but here you already have a lot of reserve power so that's not what you want.

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Old 08-03-2017, 11:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by serialk11r View Post
What's wrong? Press the gas harder when it goes into V8 mode, then it'll be more efficient.

The point of a hybrid system or supercharger/turbocharger is to add power efficiently, but here you already have a lot of reserve power so that's not what you want.
That is not true. I cruise interstate a lot. That is where this system is to be used. Interstate cruising. Not 40mph country roads. Not during acceleration in town. When the truck kicks into V8 mode, I'm going up near 70mph. I can cruise at 70mph in v4 mode on the interstate unless there is any sort of incline or any sort of head wind. Even a slight breeze in the wrong direction will make it kick into V8 mode. My instantaneous mpg goes from a very stable 24mpg right on down to 17 as soon as the v8 mode kicks in. No change in speed. Just a little parasitic head wind that increased the load on the engine just slightly enough to cause the truck to kick into V8 mode.

So you go ahead and acclerate beyond 70mph in a truck thinking that will get you better mpgs, but you are wrong. The engine's thermal efficiency may increase under load, but the vehicle will also encounter exponentially higher parasitic losses from wind drag and road load when you accelerate any further. So, you get fewer mpg when you accelerate beyond the speed at which wind drag load causes this truck to kick into V8 mode.

The point of a hybrid system in this case is to harvest power from regenerative braking and use it to add power when the vehicle is nearing the upper limit of how much load it can work against while still staying in V4 mode. The truck gets its best gas mileage when in V4 mode, and it does not have much reserve power when in V4 mode, because it switches to V8 mode at the slightest hint of load onset. Instead of kicking the truck into V8 mode as a response to transient load onset, I will counteract that load with the electric motor. So the V4 is working as hard as it can, and the electric motor is taking up the rest of the work.

How much experience do you have with cylinder deactivation systems? Maximizing the use of that system is a crucial part of what I'm trying to accomplish with this project. The other crucial part is the fact that I'd be accomplishing that task purely with energy that was harvested through regenerative braking.
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Last edited by Panther140; 08-03-2017 at 11:26 PM..
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:27 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Seems like you'd be better off with something like a downsized equivalent to the ZF TraXon hybrid system for trucks.

https://www.zf.com/corporate/en_de/p..._3/Traxon.html
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:43 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
How much experience do you have with cylinder deactivation systems? Maximizing the use of that system is a crucial part of what I'm trying to accomplish with this project.
I'm interested in that too.

Just bought a V6 and I'm accusing it of having cylinder-deactivation because it drops to running rough on the tallest gear.

I'd be happy running on 3 all the time.

As I understand it, a custom drive-wheel needs to be attached to the driveshaft at the front. To either drive a chain or a v-belt depending on how much load there will be from the motor.

I'm guessing something from a 900cc-1600cc Motorcycle chain (or a motorcycle drive-shaft) would have the approximate strength. But I'd have to look up the exact parts to know for sure.

Maybe something like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-O-Ring-D...5/282331497323


So $59 worth of bits from a Honda CBR-1000
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:30 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Even a slight breeze in the wrong direction will make it kick into V8 mode.
For this case, aerodynamic mods seem called for, since you won't get much regen cruising the Interstate. But the mild hybrid mod is still interesting.

Here's an OEM solution with a grooved rubber belt

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Old 08-04-2017, 01:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I may not be at this job location long enough to see any ROI from buying a commuter car..
Buying a well-used small Honda, Toyota, or similar is going to cost you a heck of a lot less than trying to develop this sort of hybrid system. (As has been noted, you can't put that much power through a standard V-belt, for one.) If you really want ROI, drive the car all the time, except when you actually need to haul or tow something.
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:14 AM   #27 (permalink)
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If you really want ROI, drive the car all the time, except when you actually need to haul or tow something.
Oh, really?

Buy a trailer (instead of a pickup truck)


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Old 08-07-2017, 12:52 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
Buying a well-used small Honda, Toyota, or similar is going to cost you a heck of a lot less than trying to develop this sort of hybrid system. (As has been noted, you can't put that much power through a standard V-belt, for one.) If you really want ROI, drive the car all the time, except when you actually need to haul or tow something.
Wouldn't necessarily be limited to a V belt. Cogged pulleys work well.

I'm also finding some rather inexpensive 10-15kw brushless motors from china that would be capable of sufficient duty cycle for what I'm intending to do with this.

A commuter car would have to bring a sunken cost of no more than $1000 and also get 40+mpg in order for me to break even on it before I am done commuting (I'm only commuting to this job location for 1 year). After that, the car would serve almost none of my purposes.
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Old 08-07-2017, 01:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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That works well for some situations. I used to do that back in the day. I'd haul my dirtbike to races with a 4x8 trailer that I made out of an old **** spreader frame that I got from a neighboring farm. Pulled with a v6 sedan. Toyota avalon FTW.

However, I have a 20' boat, a 29' camper, I drive off road a lot, and I heat my house with wood from my own land. The only times that I'm not hauling 5000-10,000 lb loads and/or driving off road is when I'm going to work and back. And that is only going to last 1 year.
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Old 08-07-2017, 10:12 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Panther140 View Post
I have a 20' boat, a 29' camper, I drive off road a lot, and I heat my house with wood from my own land. The only times that I'm not hauling 5000-10,000 lb loads and/or driving off road is when I'm going to work and back.
Would a motorcycle be out of question?

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