Electric water pump

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by larryrose11

I know a bit about electric water pumps...

That was some good info, thanks.

[CobraBall]

Electrical water pumps are common in auto racing.
<http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_10001_10002_10135_-1_10131>

They can be controlled electronically to adjust the rate of coolant flow "even after engine shut down".

Plan on purchasing an extra motor. You can get a engine driven mechanical water pump just about anywhere. Try to find the replacement water pump electric motor at your local Auto Zone.

I considered putting an electrical water pump on my '33 Ford but gave up the idea. Most electrical water pump mgfs. say they pumps are for racing only.

Simple is usually more reliable.

[CobraBall]

Excellent discussion for an Electric Water Pump installation.

EWP Installation

[NiHaoMike]

At the same time, a heating element in a pipe can be installed inline with the bypass and a simple control circuit used to make a crankcase heater.

[95badbird]

electric water pumps.

they work great on daily drivers.

they also work great on race cars.

I run one on my 95 bird....the beauty of it for me, is I can cool the car off(going from 190 degrees to 170 degress in minutes) in the staging lanes before the next race, with the engine off!

parasistic drag from any accessory hurts any kind of mileage or power.
depending on the vehicle make, some e-water pumps come with an idler pulley built in, so belt routing stays the same.

[bikin' Ed]

Ok, I like not having the drag on the belt driven waterpump on my engine. Since the E-pump will have to runn all of the time, how much more drag will be placed on the engine due to the alternator supplying power for the extra electrical load?

Since there are probably soooo many variables, let's limit replies to hypermiling road vehicles with a small V-6 or less ICE. Thanks

[95badbird]

the one pictured above, only has a 7 amp draw.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

[NiHaoMike]

Hey guys,
First of all, I wouldn't undertake something like this if you are not comfortable programming a micro computer of some sort, like an Motorola HC11.
Your effots could be put in a better place, like switching over to a manual rack and pinion steering, or plug in battery w/ alternator field kill switch.

Isn't the PWM control just a matter of using a MOSFET controlled by a common PWM chip? For temperature feedback, just mount a sensor on a pipe and use it to increase the duty cycle of the MOSFET. And maybe also add a PWM circuit for the radiator fan as well, and perhaps a servo motor for opening and closing the vents.

BTW, a friend of mine showed me a "desktop supercomputer" she designed the cooling system for. It was complex enough that the cooling system, consisting of a 2HP BLDC scroll compressor, R-410a refrigerant, a large condenser, 9 PZEVs (8 for the main CPUs, one for compressor cooling), and 8 evaporators, had a 200MHz CPU just to run it! Of course, that was because the CPUs had to be kept below -40C to operate correctly. An automobile engine is nowhere near as sensitive to temperature variations as a high performance CPU.

[Concrete]

I don't think you have to build your own controller any more
check this out - I've been drooling about it for a while
EMP/Stewart Components E558AR - EMP Stewart Electric Water Pumps - summitracing.com

55GPH - 10,000 hrs estimated life - 8 amps - inline and small
I'm guessing with the box on the side & the reliability expected, the motor is brushless

only thing holding me back is the price

[TestDrive]

Originally Posted by Tango Charlie

I think most thermostats have a small hole in them so they still circulate a small amount of coolant when closed. At least the thermostats that I've seen.

No to source to cite (other than myself), but it is an over simplification to think of an automotive thermostat as simply a two state (on/off) device.

If you take a new one and toss it in to a pot of cold water on a stove over low heat, you'll see it slowly open as the water temperature nears the thermostat's nominal operating temperature.