Hot fuel vapor carburetor
 

By the title of the post you are thinking that I have lost my dam mind.
I give you an actual living breathing, rainbow farting natural birth unicorn (not some Frankenstein's monster).
:eek:

This is how I will do it.
Take a plain old 4 barrel edelbrock 650 carburetor that I already have, know how to tune and rebuild, then put it on top of an obsolete 1960s carburetor hot plate and hook coolant lines up to it.
Done.
I have invented nothing new and I am not trying anything that has not been done before.

Of course I am not going to make it that simple I am thinking I will band saw off the 5/8'' heater hose nipples, thread them for 1/4 or 3/8 NPT and install 3/8 hose barbs, because I just don't want big gaudy 5/8 heater hoses running all over the place. Then add a control solenoid to turn off the coolant when I don't need it.

I have seen these before, I just have not seen one in a very long time.
I don't think its actually going to help fuel economy that much unless its nice and chilly. It will help cold starting since I have coolant heater, can circulate coolant through the carb hot plate with the electric coolant pump I already run and I can fill the fuel bowl with my electric fuel pump.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1445664720

This wont be a big MPG booster, its more of a cold weather contingency plan and tuning aid since I run a edelbrock air gap intake manifold.

I would be concerned about vapor-lock. any thoughts? heat-soak will run straight up to the carb.
when I first read the title, I thought it was a bash thread.

That is why I am adding a control valve, so I can turn it off. I may find in winter I don't need it beyond warm up and I may not want it on at all in the summer.

This normally happens any ways when you have a typical non-divorced style intake manifold. I have seen the carb on my Camaro showing roughly 200'F with the factory style intake where the bottom the plenum and intake runners are the top of the inside of the lifter valley, so it gets pretty warm.
Vapor lock happens when you get vapor bubbles in the fuel lines from the fuel lines getting too hot. Most amateur hot fuel experiments try to heat the fuel line, this rig only heats the fuel once it has reached the carb.
I can prevent baking the fuel once its in the carb by turning off the coolant a mile or 2 before I get to where I am going and cutting off the fuel pump to burn off fuel in the bowls.

Normally coming from me it would be a bash thread.

These are found on 1962-1963 thunderbird with 390 and other mid 1960s ford cars with V8 engines.
Just search "ford carburetor heater" or "ford carburetor spacer".

First gen z cars (1969) had coolant heated manifolds and preheated air into the air cleaner, via a winter-summer flap on the air entrance snorkel to the air filter housing.

My 37 Ford's original intake manifold had a passageway and a port to the regular exhaust port that used exhaust gasses to heat up the manifold directly below the carburetor mounting point.

Nissan even had a heated screen in their last carbed 200SX's, using the NapsZ 2 liter engines.

Preheating the fuel with otherwise wasted exhaust heat energy is still being developed. Check out transonic combustion.

regards
mech

What I originally thought was a vacuum port appears to be full of exhaust soot. I am thinking that is where the EGR went in.

I figured the PCV is pretty much always attached to the air cleaner?
This is a raw vacuum port.
Looks more like EGR soot than PCV crud.
Not running EGR I am just going to cap this off.

Never seen pvc only hooked up to the air cleaner. I'm betting the port is pvc.
-mort

any luck?
here's something I found years ago.
Alternative Science and Technology Research Organisation

I have not tried to put this on yet.
With the ridiculously cold temperatures we have been having I need to at least try.
Only problem with putting this on is its about an inch thick and I am already running a much taller than stock edelbrock RPM air gap intake manifold and taller than stock edelbrock 650 carb.