iat sensor question

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by hillbilly83

Would warm air intake do the same thing as what I want the resistor to do? Are there any programmers that work for fe? I just think covering up things reducing drag isnt going to do a whole lot, or will it?

If you drive a good bit of highway then aero dynamic improvements can give the best return for the money.

[California98Civic]

Originally Posted by hillbilly83

Would warm air intake do the same thing as what I want the resistor to do?

Not exactly. When a WAI works it probably works by reducing energy lost to pumping air into the engine for burning gasoline. Lots of people think the warm air, because it is thinner and will cause the engine to lean out a little, that that is what saves fuel. But to get the same power you'll step on the accelerator harder. So the real gajn, when it happens, is probably from the fact that the throttle plate ends up more open because you are depressing the accelerator pedal further. It's therefore less of an obstruction. Hence, you reduce a drag on the engine ("pumping losses").

I saw a small benefit after testing, others have not. You could experiment and report your findings...

One plus of a WAI over a resistor is that the ECU sensor data is correct. The computer knows the IAT is higher, and the IAT is actually higher. It will adjust safely.

James

[BabyDiesel]

I happen to have a 5.6k resistor inline on my IAT sensor. It is on my Ford Escort ZX2 with a 2.0 Zetec. This mod gives more timing on our cars by telling the ECU that the air is colder than it actually is, along the lines of -10°F with an ambient of 60-70°F. The colder the air, the less modification to the signal there is, and vice versa. The IAT is not used for determining AFR on my ZX2, so the computer does not compensate for it. I'm unsure if your Chrysler has the same set up.

As for you check engine light, the IAT wires could have a bad connection and trigger the CEL. I would start there. Actually, go to an AutoZone, Advance Auto, or O'Reillys and let them see what's causing the CEL for free, and report back to us

[hat_man]

I saw the thread on the TeamZx2 forum. The guy who did the research (Mechtech) really seems to know his stuff. I asked about my Ranger and after some research and question asking on other sites I am currently trying this one out also. I have only run about 3/4 of a tank through but so far it looks "promising". I'll know more with a few more tanks. My "system" is simple. Put in 10 gallons and try and hit 300 miles or better. Not very scientific and I'm sure someone on here will be sure and point that out, but it's been better than "ball parking it" for for almost 3 years. I did some faster than normal interstate driving this weekend and that may have thrown off the numbers, but for now I'm keeping the resistor in.

Here's a link to the thread. It's VERY long (70 pages), but you'll have to wade through it and pick out the important information.

40+ Mpg