Originally Posted by Matt04
I have tried that, but blasting the A/C makes the car use the battery more, thus shortening the battery life.
I believe where you love is hotter. However, I just put in new Bee max sticks 2 years ago and 9 already went bad. All the sticks in the center of the pack went bad. I believe it is because they get hotter then the sticks on the edges.
The bolded portion is about 99% wrong. The A/C compressor is strictly pulley driven. It has no electric motor like the 2006-2011 Civic Hybrids. You will get lower mileage because you are using the gas engine more, but it doesn't use the battery more to any significant degree.
Rule #1 with Hybrids: If you aren't cool and comfortable, your hybrid battery is potentially sustaining damage. NEVER spare the A/C.
I cooked the **** out of an HCH2 battery driving in AZ summer heat without A/C. Went from working very well to completely crapping out in a couple months.
Heat is the #1 killer of these things. The Honda "D" cell form factor is highly susceptible because they have the worst cooling characteristics. Run your A/C as much as is needed to keep you cool and comfortable. That's all you need to do concerning your fan speed. Blowing hot air over a hotter battery is not beneficial.
Pursue all recommendations that serve to minimize interior heat.
You are driving a car with a poor design. I've owned 2X HCH2, and I currently own 2X G1 Insights. Honda dropped the ball. Toyota figured it out after the Gen0 Prius in Japan used the same "bamboo sticks" the Hondas used... they sucked. Toyota moved to the prismatic module that everybody but Honda uses. Honda stuck with it and it only got worse.
Since you've mucked about with your battery, make 100% certain you installed it correctly. You need to have a good seal between the battery and the inlet, and you can't have any leaks around the IPU cover. Without a reasonably air tight seal around the IPU cover, you're going to suck air in through it and the cooling air won't enter through the battery.
Lastly, the HCH1 fan is PWM controlled. The ECU monitors the signal. If you alter it, you will need to spoof the ECU to provide the expected signal.