The "I'm not a hybrid" hybrid idea

[chuckm]

Having a fairly long commute each day, I have time to think through some different ideas to improve my mpgs. I know that an alternator delete can make for a pretty substantial improvement, but I am pretty nervous about doing it. A 45 mile commute, each way, is a long distance. Even if I bought a deep cycle battery, I'd be worried about getting stranded.

That said, I saw people talking about a DC-DC converter here a couple of weeks ago. Cool, now I can string a couple of batteries together in series, mounted in the trunk, run a DC-DC converter outputting ~14.5V and delete the alternator. But it seems a shame to have a battery pack and only to delete the alternator.

But here's where my cogitating went: What if I added a couple more batteries and used it to power a small motor mounted in the current location of the alternator? Could I disconnect the motor's drive pulley and use the motor to drive the accessories?

Okay, what's wrong with this idea? Surely I'm missing something.

[Christ]

Sure, you could do this... or you could just delete the accessories... unless one of them is a belt-driven smog pump or something similar.

If you absolutely have to keep the A/C, you could drive that from a e-motor, but you could also just attach the e-motor to it, in place of the clutch assembly that's already on it.

You could then use the clutch assembly to freewheel the PS pump until the steering wheel moved more than a few degrees from center, where it would trigger a contact strip that would engage the A/C clutch driven PS pump.

I still +2 on just deleting the accessories, removing the starter, going with an e-motor and a toothed belt that will put out about 10HP for 30 seconds, and blocking the IACV on the engine.

This will mean that you use the e-motor to start moving from red lights, any time you come to a complete stop or clutch in for long enough, the engine stalls. That way, you don't have to worry about turning the key off, then back on, etc... you just leave the key on, the gasser stalls, the e-motor takes off for you when you press the button, and the gasser is driven by it, so it will start on it's own when the RPM's are high enough to allow the engine to run without external power. (right around 300 RPM, the engine will run, but won't create useable power until nearly 500-750 RPM, which is crawling in first gear.)

Imagine how much gas you won't be using when your engine doesn't run at red lights or any time you come to a complete stop, and the e-motor is doing all your <10MPH driving...

[jamesqf]

Why would you need/want a DC-DC converter, if you're (I assume) using standard 12-Volt lead-acid batteries? Either hook them up in parallel (for twice the run time) or have an A-B switch so that when one is drained, you switch to the fresh one.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by jamesqf

Why would you need/want a DC-DC converter, if you're (I assume) using standard 12-Volt lead-acid batteries? Either hook them up in parallel (for twice the run time) or have an A-B switch so that when one is drained, you switch to the fresh one.

B/c your car doesn't run on 12V, even though they're 12V (nominal) batteries.

[Frank Lee]

Carlos knows a thing or two about this set-up.

[Clev]

Originally Posted by Christ

B/c your car doesn't run on 12V, even though they're 12V (nominal) batteries.

Plus, your e-motor would be more efficient and powerful at a higher voltage, say, a golf car motor or Etek at 36-60V

[AmpEater]

DC-DC is the only way to do an alternator delete right. Your electrical system really needs ~14v to do its thing. I once read that a race team measured a 10hp drop for each volt below 14.5v. If I simply disconnect the alt in my camry it only takes a minute before the battery voltage is ~11v with a load on it. It still runs fine, but the spark isn't as hot, lights are dim, fans run slower, etc.

I've found a dc-dc on ebay that takes 24v and outputs 13.8v @ 60 amps cheap ....should be perfect for an alt delete. Combined with a small AGM for cranking and to handle peak loads like a radiator fan kicking in and you'll be at least 10% better. On my camry its more like 20%, which is pretty phenomenal.

Instead of removing the alt you just de-energize the field. Its easy to do....and if you ever drain the batteries or have some problem you can always just re-activate the alt in a second.

[cfg83]

Frank -

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Carlos knows a thing or two about this set-up.

Me? All I have is a solar panel with a trickle charger :

solar pannel charging issue

It does look like Sunforce has lots of other charge controllers for batteries :

SunForce Products Inc. -


CarloSW2

[Frank Lee]

What if I added a couple more batteries and used it to power a small motor mounted in the current location of the alternator?

Electrocharger?

[chuckm]

Sure, you could do this... or you could just delete the accessories... unless one of them is a belt-driven smog pump or something similar.

Does a water pump count? And yes, A/C is quite necessary. I minimize how much I use it, but 100F heat with 98% humidity is quite intolerable. I've sweat through shirts, front and back trying to avoid the A/C.

Instead of removing the alt you just de-energize the field. Its easy to do....and if you ever drain the batteries or have some problem you can always just re-activate the alt in a second.

I suppose I could just find a different location for my e-motor, but that seems more complicated than simply removing and replacing the alternator if I'm in a bad situation.

Electrocharger?

Actually, yeah. That's a good name for it. It does boost available engine power, doesn't it?