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Old 01-07-2013, 09:07 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Josie - '87 Toyota Pickup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slownugly View Post
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Off topic, and I'm about to jump back to the top of the thread to read it all, it looks cool, but

I read your name and had to think for a sec. "What's a slow nugly? Is there a fast kind? Slower than what, exactly?"

<facepalm>

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Old 01-07-2013, 09:35 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Rusty crusty trusty - '94 Honda Civic Cx
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So it's a plug in heater. So if I just heated the garage. It's attached and fully insulated. It would be the same. 3 mpg from a warm start motor. Hmmm what about the oil dipstick heaters. They always seemed to keep the diesels happier.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:58 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty94cx View Post
So it's a plug in heater. So if I just heated the garage. It's attached and fully insulated. It would be the same. 3 mpg from a warm start motor. Hmmm what about the oil dipstick heaters. They always seemed to keep the diesels happier.
I dunno about the same. His block heater is 400 watts, not even a full kilowatt-hour to heat the engine before he heads off for work. How much energy required to heat up your garage? I'm guessing it's probably a lot more. The mass of the air inside the garage is 50lbs more than the weight of the D15 engine, and that's before the air gets to heating the engine itself.

It's best to apply the heat directly where it's needed. For a pretty cool write-up on that topic (as it applies to keeping humans comfortable), check this thread from permies.com: making the best of electric heat (conservation forum at permies)
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:41 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Yea just the 400 watt works pretty well but that doesn't mean the warm air intake won't help too. When I start the engine cold after using the block heater the coolant is warm but the intake air temp is still chilly so I imagine that could work against us. I was thinking today about fabricating a sheet metal case that would attach( maybe be welded to) from the converter and have a fitting to a hose going to the airbox
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:46 PM   #105 (permalink)
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The dipstick heater certainly wouldn't hurt but I doubt it would have a noticeable increase in mileage.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:36 PM   #106 (permalink)
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slownugly, can you define what you mean it was stumbling? mine feels like it hesitates a little and then takes off fine, only seems to happen at tip in throttle and very low rpm is that what you mean by stumble

i put a z1 in a crx hf and hf trans and i get a stumble i drove from chicago to florida doing 75-78 mph and i still got 45-47 mpg the whole way down. im sure if i did 65 i would have gotten better but i cant drive like grandma. i did get 50 in the city driving like grandma but i cant drive like that its just to slow

i thought i bought the correct ngk o2 but looking at your post mines a a08, dont buy it from oxgen sensor.net or barmacauto either then, the both state it replaces the ao9 so i think i'm finding out its the wrong one.

where can you get the right one, i did my research and thought i had the right number but it looks now like it was not.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:05 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Lean burn ( vtec-e) will naturally have a hesitation( power increase) when it coming out of lean burn. Normal operation with a good sensor- when you have it in lean burn and you are holding the pedal to keep it in lean burn the car should feel like its power is bleeding off but the engine should be running smoothly. With the a08 sensor I would hold it in lean burn but it would surge, feel like he engine is shutting of and restarting, feels kind of like a misfire. It's a night and day difference. In the 300 lb heavier 4 door it's way harder to tell when it's going into lean burn and coming out of it. Your crx should be easy to tell when its coming in and out because it's lighter.

As for where to get a good one I got mine from our main part supplier. If you don't want to go to a Honda dealer or get it from a Honda dealer online I would try a local part supplier that deals with commercial often and is reputable(napa) and if you get one remember to check the number befOre you open the plastic bag it's in
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:37 PM   #108 (permalink)
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well on flat lands on the highway i can tell when it was in lean burn it would hesitate for a quater second and then it's lean burn with no cruise in a hf it was hard to consistintly stay at a specfic speed but i did a pretty good job. mine would actually speed up on its own. no real hesitation on the highway just on low speed takeoff so lean burn is not even in effect yet there thats what i was asking are you getting, when you first are taking off in lower rpms.

lean burn is a higher o2 reading, which to me means i would see on a dyno more power, a leaner mixture should give a slight power increase granted the z1 is rated i belive at 92hp your not going to feel power, in my crx weighing 1900 lbs i could feel it changing over at least. someone correct me if i'm wrong here.

I was going buy the ngk numbers to try and buy the right one,from all the research i did from the honda numbers to ngk thats what it came up ngk 24300 maybe it's the way they advertise it . what is your ngk number?
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:12 PM   #109 (permalink)
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in normal operation in 1st gear the sensor didnt stumble at all. and when i put a load on it on the highway to pull a hill it didnt stumble at all when i was kicked out of lean burn. just cruising in lean burn you could feel the stumble or when accelerating through the gears sometimes you could feel the stumble block you and you would kind of have to push through the sh*&#y lean burn to accelerate. its a pain to drive but it didnt set any check engine lights.

narrow band o2s (most cars) have a voltage range from .00 to 1 volt. wide band o2 sensors operate totally differently. there are several write ups on here i think it might be tomO, nachritter, or someone correct me? where they attached a volt meter to the o2 sensor wires. the vx sensor operates between -.5 and .5 volts i believe. a positive voltage meant you are in lean burn so you are correct. but it will not create more power. an engine does make the most power right before detonation but with air fuel ratios as high as 23:1 i doubt any power can be made safely. and if some one tries it will have to be with a chipped ecu and dyno tested. im no expert but thats what i would assume.

the box number is the part that sucks. my a09 ngk box has the same 24300 number as your a08 but its made in different places thats why some are cheaper than others and thats why some arent made to the right parameters. only way to tell is open the box and look at the other numbers. also if you find brand new ones for like 100 bux they are most likely going to be the number other than a09.

someone correct me if im off with my numbers of the vx o2 sensor voltages.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:27 PM   #110 (permalink)
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best thing would be to start a new thread and put vx or d15z1 in the title and that will concentrate everyones attention to it. ive only been driving lean burn since july 2012. lots of guys have more experience with it than i do.

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