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Old 01-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #111 (permalink)
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well i decided on an air fuel gauge for instrumentation. its an innovate gauge with fancy green leds (for going green of course i ordered a custom made gauge pod. a guy on ebay takes factory dash bezels and molds gauge pods in for a custom look. it will be in the center of the dash. will take a couple weeks to get it though but in the meantime that will give me time to save up for the gauge. its $157 on ebay and includes everything even o2 weld in bung. i think im going to weld the bung into the catalytic converter.

on a side note im starting to strip the red vx that i bought. i need a good saturday where i can tear into it and finish it off. im really wanting to do a crx. 60+mpg is very enticing!!

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Old 01-11-2013, 02:35 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Hi - great thread; I just read through the whole thing.

Reminds me of my own swap I did in Spring 2011 when I transplanted a VX D15Z1 from a donor vehicle into my Canadian CX hatchback. VX body was rotted to bits so it was not salvageable but the engine and drivetrain were of course OK.

I had a few thoughts I'd share and questions about your swap that I'd hope you could clear up.

I agree that it would have been great if North America got a sedan version with the D15Z1. Japan and Europe got them as both hatchbacks and sedans; these trims were called the ETi and VEi, respectively. The sedans had all-power features like your LX.

I also adapted my OEM Cruise Control system and VX shift light to work with the gauge cluster. I had previously retrofit the OEM cruise system into the vehicle and wanted both features to operate like OEM - just like as if it had rolled off the factory floor like that. Your approach was novel, but I lean towards preferring the approach I took, especially since the Cruise light spot that you chose is reserved for a "low-fuel" indicator bulb in Japanese and European markets and I have also retrofit this feature. I chose to instead use the OEM location that Honda used for the shift light on the USDM CX which is in the top right corner (see pic). This location won't work if the car has ABS, however.


To get it to work without using the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster you need to use a separate holder for the bulb. The bulb holder for the ashtray bulb will transfer over. The leads from this can then be connected to the break-out board that controls the shift light, which will need to be separated from the cluster since the cruise control break-out board occupies the normal spot where this mounts inside the cluster.

I'm curious as to how you dealt with the problem of the clutch switch? Since the cruise system uses a 'normally closed' switch and the shift light uses a 'normally open' switch, and both occupy the same location in front of the clutch pedal, did you construct a bracket to hold the second switch alongside the first?

I wondered if you had tried test fitting the rear air dam (under the VX back bumper) onto the sedan? I don't believe the sedans in Europe got these (unlike the hatchbacks) but I still thought they might still transfer over.

The wiring for the EGR runs along the firewall in the cabin and comes out the driver's side grommet. I didn't notice if this is how you ran the wires for this part?

I realize you already bought your block heater from NAPA, but others might like to know that the OEM block heater from Honda for the 92-95 Civics is still available as an accessory part and is priced at just under or around $30 from the online retailers - cheaper than I can buy it locally, plus it's always nice to have OEM.

Finally, I thought I'd mention that I saw discussion about the O2 sensors being "NGK" but this is not correct; the company that makes them is "NTK". NGK is more known for spark plugs and wires, etc.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:39 AM   #113 (permalink)
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It's actually the same company I went to a seminar they put on. You are correct though they box the o2s as ntk and plugs as ngk.

That's a great idea with the low fuel light! So is that the original cx lens with the upper shift light? And is it just installed onto a cluster with a tach? I like it. I wouldn't mind trying to figure out an econo light to put in one of these spots. I didn't really have a cx cluster at my disposal and they aren't easy to come by but ill start looking for them

As for the clutch switch I never even knew there was a difference haha the cruise control
works as it should but I don't use it often. The shift indicator works so idk.

The egr originally comes out the drivers side but I'd have to swap out the cabin harness to do that. Or run it along the length of the inside of the vehicle to the other side. I just found it easier to go out the grommet hole same place I put the extra wiring through for the 02,vtec, etc. you can see in one of the pics where I attached it. It looks factory.

I haven't started any aero yet so I'm not sure. It will most likely get a custom front and rear pan along with tire dams.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:48 AM   #114 (permalink)
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Same company? Neat - good to know.

Yeah the low fuel light installs fairly easily with the correct fuel level meter in the tank, one wire to the cluster, and a cluster mod very similar to the one you did for 'cruise'. Here is a link to a few DIYs I've written and performed on my Civic, including the low-fuel write up: https://docs.google.com/document/preview?id=1jsaQ9JZ0GlxqggzjuGsbOm5sm4j5VWFHs1rTBV ZRaPw (copy and paste link)

It's interesting that the cruise system works properly. According to the wiring diagrams it shouldn't work, but you say it does so that is pretty great! Did you tie in both the clutch switch wires together going to the clutch switch? Did you use a diode?

I did run the wiring for my EGR across the cabin firewall then outside the driver's side grommet. What a royal pain that was.

Please let us know when you start your aero mods ... the rear air dam is a stock item on the VX (have a look); it is super easy to remove and test fit.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:05 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Yea I'm an auto technician and the class was pretty informative. They explain that most o2 sensor manufacturers are in with eachother. (example- a vehicle may require a certain manufacturer to work properly I.e. denso, ngk. If it called for a denso but ngk wants to sell it they kind of sublet the part to ngk. And the other way around too.) My green hatch the previous owner used a denso box and number but the numbers on the sensor matched ngk kind of smart. Each company sells an equal product.

Yea take a look at the pics for the egr wiring. The original map sensor on the LX bolted to the firewall whilst the Vx one is on the throttle body. So I used the original harness and clips for the LX map sensor to run the egr wires through. It came out great.

I didn't have to touch anything in the clutch switch. Maybe the cx is different. I even looked up for our parts supplier to see if they had different part numbers and it's the same across the board. Only one part number available for all models.

I'll have to check the write up out later. That would be a fun project

I sure will I'm going to home depot tonight to look at plastic sheeting, chloroplast and plexiglass. I'll have to get my red Vx up in the air to check the back air dam thingy. I'm really excited to get the air fuel gauge in. I have a feeling that's gona have a huge impact on my mileage
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:36 PM   #116 (permalink)
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Got some clear plexiglass for the grill block. Painted the extra valve cover will install in a day or 2




My last tank was 49.3!! So close to my goal.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:57 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Makes a heck of a difference!! Still need to add the spark plug wire loom bracket but I'm waiting for that to dry.

I got the air fuel gauge just waiting on the gauge bezel. Then I need to wait for a Saturday to take the converter off so I can weld the bung into it.expect that install on the next few posts. Until then I'm going to enjoy my 47-49mpg tanks. My 3 tank average is 48.5
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:34 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Note my furry russian hat in the reflection

This cold is killer. Single digits the past couple days and wind chills below 0. This has made me lean towards starting my warm air intake mod the same time as my afr gauge since I will have the converter off anyways to weld the o2 bung in. I have a very very slick idea for the intake do stay tuned.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:41 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Check out my super simple hai My new HAI and headers!!! it works perfect in the cold. Also, you should leave the cat off and get headers, it makes a noce difference. I like your valve cover
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:49 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Thanks, ye I saw the one you did. I was very close to doing the same style but I came up with this other plan. I've heard mixed things about having a header on the Vx engines. Most say it's bad and that the o2 sensor should be up at the top like the factory did. Some have had the o2 wear out faster by having a header

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