little help.. newbie mechanic metro valve cover

[an0nymous]

Hey Guys, quick question. I'm dumb and I accept your derision.
Now that thats out of the way:
SO metro 3 cyl valve cover. I have removed the 4 nuts and am now trying to remove the retention washers(?) underneath. It's not going so good. They look awfully like they're a part of the valve cover. I tried to dig underneath them with a screwdriver but I scored te valve cover up some and stopped immediately.
ANy thoughts here? I'm scared of damaging the valve cover. Apparently the 4 as yet undone head bolts are hidden by the valve cover so it's gotta come up.
Everything I've seen says strike washers off but I put a good gouge in the valve cover and just want a little reassurance.
Thanks in advance.

[Coyote X]

On an engine they have been on there a long time the easiest way I have found is use a pocket knife to get under it and lift it up enough to get a pair of pliers to grab it and work it off with the pliers from there.

Or if you have some pliers with a good strong edge you might be able to grab them without using the knife and twist them a bit to break them free. They come off easier once you get them unstuck from the valve cover. A bit of scratching won't hurt the valve cover just don't gouge a huge scratch through it all the way to the stud.

[Johnny Mullet]

After removing the nuts, use a good screwdriver or a chisel with a hammer and rotate them counter-clockwise until they un-thread from the stud.

[robertwb70]

On my 91 metro they appear to be metal, I used a scratch awl and hammer to unscrew them and I'm going to drill the threads out before they get put back on since it was a real PITA getting them off.

[an0nymous]

Message to myself from three weeks ago (and to anyone else wanting the benefit of my hindsight)
1. The washers: Not actually metal. Really there's just a thin metal cover over a sort of hard plastic/rubber. Don't be fooled just because they look like a solid metal fastener.
2. What worked for me: Scratch awl and a small hammer. Angle the awl at a 45 degree angle to the surface of the washer halfway between the threaded post and the outer edge. Use the hammer to punch through the topmost metal (not difficult; tap, don't sledge). Tap the awl and drive the washer counterclockwise adjusting the handle of the awl to maintain the same relative position of awl to washer. Once you get them unthreaded far enough, it's finger work.

Do not waste hours trying to grab the edge of the washer with the tip of a succession of needlenose pliers and channel locks. This way lies madness.

Thanks, guys. I was just skerred. Once I gave it a solid whack and stopped worrying about the finish on the washer, it was easy-peasey.