Manual disengage for a centrifugal clutch

[The Atomic Ass]

My Burgman has a centrifugal clutch, and I'm trying to think up a way I can manually disengage it at speed.

I won't have a good idea of what to do until I have the clutch in my hands, but I'd like to know if anyone knows of an easy way to force a centrifugal clutch to disengage while at speed.

[dcb]

I've wondered about that myself. Other options might be to replace it with a manual clutch somehow. Or put a heavy duty freewheel on the rear sprocket maybe.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by dcb

I've wondered about that myself. Other options might be to replace it with a manual clutch somehow. Or put a heavy duty freewheel on the rear sprocket maybe.

No rear sprocket here.

The engine crankshaft goes into the CVT, the CVT exits into the clutch, and the clutch drops straight into a fixed gear reduction drive which feeds the rear wheel directly. There's no sprockets anywhere.

[Ryland]

A free wheel on the engine or wheel side, either one would work but would be some machining to get it done, your wheel is a side mount wheel on the rear, right? make a free wheel that goes between the wheel and the drive shaft.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Ryland

A free wheel on the engine or wheel side, either one would work but would be some machining to get it done, your wheel is a side mount wheel on the rear, right? make a free wheel that goes between the wheel and the drive shaft.

I'm a day-dream engineer, not a real one.

I really can't see a way to make it happen, as the wheel is more like a cars', with 3 lug bolts, and the bit with the lugs is on a splined shaft.

[Ryland]

So what you need is a free wheel that goes between the hub of he wheel and the drive hub, the walk behind tractor compeny BCS makes a free wheel hub retro fit for their tractors so you can turn sharper, it has a wheel bearing in it and a free wheel that protrudes through the hub of the wheel, you just bolt it on before you bolt the wheel on.

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Ryland

So what you need is a free wheel that goes between the hub of he wheel and the drive hub, the walk behind tractor compeny BCS makes a free wheel hub retro fit for their tractors so you can turn sharper, it has a wheel bearing in it and a free wheel that protrudes through the hub of the wheel, you just bolt it on before you bolt the wheel on.

I honestly can't picture what you're describing.

[Ryland]

you need to get your free wheel between your drive wheel hub and the spider that the wheel bolts to, so it would look kind of like a wheel spacer, only it would have the free wheel in it, your wheel uses more then one lug to bolt on, correct?

[The Atomic Ass]

Originally Posted by Ryland

you need to get your free wheel between your drive wheel hub and the spider that the wheel bolts to, so it would look kind of like a wheel spacer, only it would have the free wheel in it, your wheel uses more then one lug to bolt on, correct?

Now I think I'm getting the picture, but I still can't picture HOW it would fit there. The rim bolts to the hub with 3 lugs.

I'll have to take some photos when I have it torn down next week or so.

[dcb]

Hmm, I wonder what happens if you have an engine brake with a centrifugal clutch? If you can get the engine to stop and if the clutch will still slip a little then the springs should pull the shoes back. Maybe? Break something? Maybe?