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Old 11-05-2009, 04:58 PM   #71 (permalink)
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List-o-mods suggestion:

Have had great success with my TCC lockup switch. Increase over two full tanks was 20%. Went from 24mpg (4 tanks) full tank average to 29mpg. (2 tanks)

I figure that's worth the 10 minutes it took to wire. It takes some getting used to driving with it but it's more fun.

Biggest gains would be had in hilly country.


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Old 12-03-2009, 08:53 PM   #72 (permalink)
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I've heard of this switch but I've never read a report from someone who used it; thanks!
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:51 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange4boy View Post
List-o-mods suggestion:
It's on the list to add to the list. Been on it for a while, actually.

(Tackling the list is on another list...)
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:53 PM   #74 (permalink)
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That would be the list that contains all the lists of things that need to be listed. In list format, of course.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:55 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:52 AM   #76 (permalink)
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few comments on the write-up (and things I haven't seen in the responses)

side mirrors are a big aerodynamic issue on most cars. rather than deleting them for legal reasons, substitute them with motorcycle racing side mirrors... There are many choices.

Overdrive pulleys for the water pump, power steering pump, alternator; AND/OR an underdrive crank pulley. I see alot of confusion with people saying over-drive or under-drive. Over-drive is a larger pulley you put on any accessory to make it spin slower. Under-drive is a smaller pulley you would put on the crank to make the whole belt assembly spin slower as a whole. Electric pumps are all great but its a whole 'nother drug. I don't hear alot of success stories, and it always seems to be costing someone alot of money (ZOMG my coolant pump lost siphon and my engine locked up).

weight reduction isn't as much of a mpg gain as it would seem. aerodynamics plays into effect much more than weight does at a constant cruise speed. The weight reduction gains that are maximized are by reducing the rotating mass and the unsprung mass. Light rim/tire combos along with 2-piece rotors. It makes a difference in the power you put to the road. Gutting your car on the otherhand does not make that much of a difference.

wheel bearings and alignment. you don't have to wait for squealing noises before you replace some of this stuff.
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:00 AM   #77 (permalink)
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I like the idea of an underdrive pulley slowing the whole works down, but that is tempered by the knowledge that the tighter you bend chains/belts on small sprockets/pullies, the less efficient the power transfer system becomes. So then you must decide if the gains from slowing the driven stuff down overcome the loss from bending that belt tighter. They probably do, but still it sux to ADD inefficiency to get efficiency
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:04 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Lee View Post
I like the idea of an underdrive pulley slowing the whole works down, but that is tempered by the knowledge that the tighter you bend chains/belts on small sprockets/pullies, the less efficient the power transfer system becomes. So then you must decide if the gains from slowing the driven stuff down overcome the loss from bending that belt tighter. They probably do, but still it sux to ADD inefficiency to get efficiency
The belt radius could be overcome by increasing the diameter of both pulleys, but this exacerbates the issue by adding angular momentum and increased rotating mass.

Darn it all.

Well, maybe if you replaced them with bigger aluminum pieces with a lower turns ratio, you could defeat both issues, but then there is still the angular momentum issue caused by the larger radius of the pulleys. Darn Darn Darn!
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:07 AM   #79 (permalink)
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I KNOW!!!

So instead of worrying about all that jazz, I just keep the rpms low and the accessories off.
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:08 AM   #80 (permalink)
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SUNUVA!!! You might be on to something, Frank!


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