Mini Mazda Modding (2011 Mazda 2)

[gone-ot]

TIP -- on 'thin' metal, use very SLOW motor speed, very light PRESSURE, and run the drill in REVERSE! That way, you're not gouging metal out with the 'teeth' but rather 'wearing' it away with the back-slant of the teeth.

[kafer65]

We're already on winter fuel in our corridor. I wonder if you are too. Possibly much more potetial if you were to use E0 summer fuel. My mileage has already dropped 10% from my all time high a month ago.

[jedi_sol]

You can also try the cutting the signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

It does not throw any codes on my 2013 Subaru WRX Sti.

[apc]

Indeed I came across that in your thread! That's weird tho as I've seen a CPS throw a code on an older Nissan. I'll be back at it this weekend.

[iveyjh]

Originally Posted by apc

Ah but the problem is I need at least a 1" opening to reach the stem. I see cheap ones for smaller holes but 1" all hits $50. I could do a smaller hole with an extension but I want to use a hole plug to make it nice and pretty.

>
I just remembered I have a sheet metal nibbler at work. That's what I'll do - use the largest punch I have and just nibble the rest out!

>>
Hmmmmmm I found one on Amazon for $10. Hmmmmmmm.

Harbor Freight has the large step drill for a reasonable price, sure comes in handy.

[apc]

Ah, $20 is a little more tolerable! Maybe I'll just have to find more reasons to drill holes in things.

[apc]

Prototyping the wheel covers today.






Worked out the zip tie locations on the narrowest part of the spokes.




Punched out the holes with a screw driver. Doing this instead of drilling curves the edges inward so there's nothing sharp to rub on the tie.




Immediately I discovered that the ties have to be very tight else the cover will rattle. They also do move around a bit resulting in a slightly noticeable imbalance going down the highway. I'm going to drill the hole for the valve access and then prime and plasti-dip them. My hope is that the traction from the rubber will hold them in place so they not only don't slide but don't have to be zip tied so strongly. If they still move around I'll try adding a peg to the cover that extends down into the opening for the wheel center cap.

On a 10 mi or so jog down the highway I was bouncing around 56 mpg by the time I got off. Not sure how much I trust that tho. I filled up the tank today and came in at 38.6. Lower than my last fill. Doesn't make sense as I've been doing plenty of P&G and coasting in neutral, cruising in 5th unless I need some power. And the last fill at 39 mpg was only half hypermiling. Maybe I should stop buying Costco gas.

[kafer65]

Originally Posted by apc

Immediately I discovered that the ties have to be very tight else the cover will rattle. They also do move around a bit resulting in a slightly noticeable imbalance going down the highway.

I get that as well using the 50 pound zip ties. I used a heavy gauge zip tie early on and I could get those tighter and had less problems with slippage. I just inspect them and readjust them if I feel a wobble. Looks real nice mounted. I managed to mount my skirts today and all went very well.

[apc]

Picked up the step bit from Harbor Freight. It does the job.




Put the hole as close to the slope as I could. Works out so it's not impossible to get at the valve. Technically. A little extension will make things much more practical when servicing.




Washed and primed.

[apc]

Plasti-dipped.