Mustang neutral coasting? (in Ford Mustang V6 automatic)

[JRK5150]

I tried posting this in another part of the forums, but I got no replies, so I'll try over here.
I'm just starting in my quest for much better fuel economy. I'm driving a '94 mustang convertible equipped with a 3.8 liter v6 and an auto tranny. I'm wondering if any one has tried neutral coasting with the AodE trans? I don't want to kill it!
Also, can any one tell me if this car is equipped with a fuel cutoff when I take my foot off the gas?
I'll be ordering a scanguage here soon for more accurate monitoring. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!!

-John

[MetroMPG]

Every modern fuel injected car has fuel cutoff under certain conditions.

Coasting in neutral - you can almost certainly do it with the engine running, without damaging anything. As for shifting back into gear, I'm not so sure. Maybe someone with more experience driving the Fords can jump in here.

Coasting in N with the engine OFF requires that the transmission can be "flat towed" (drive wheels on the ground) in N. Otherwise you could be risking damage due to lack of lubrication.

[MetroMPG]

PS - you'll love the ScanGauge. Fun fun.

[JRK5150]

Thanks MetroMPG! I am pretty excited about the scanguage. I'll be ordering it as soon as I save up enough. I checked my owner's manual and am a bit confused. It says the car can be towed in neutral, but says to keep the speed below 35 and not to drive more than 50 miles or transmission damage may occur. Under what conditions will the fuel cutoff be activated?

[gascort]

Pretty much anytime you're using the transmission to slow you down ever so slightly(on a downhill) or if the car doesn't require the engine to be loaded to maintain speed when coasting.
Sounds like the AODE can't be flat towed. Bummer.
What MPGs do you get in that? My '95 GT got about 21 for my everyday commute when I drove fairly reasonably. My lowest ever was 18, and my highest ever was 23 (all highway in 5th gear)
btw, you can swap transmissions in that beast fairly easily, but I don't know that you'd be able to EOC anyway, even with a 5spd - I destroyed the rag joint in my steering shaft by turning the car without the power steering on just a few times, and it was HARD!

[basslover911]

Originally Posted by gascort

I destroyed the rag joint in my steering shaft by turning the car without the power steering on just a few times, and it was HARD!

Did you loop the lines? Add a breather? Or just disconnected the belt?

[Tony Raine]

on my 2001 ford explorer sport (5r55e auto trans, the AODE/A4LD's replacement), here are my observations:

EOC = bad idea
N-coasting (engine on) = ok, if under 35 mph
"rev matching" (to go back into gear from N) = bad idea


when i coast to a stop sign/red light, i shift into N right under 35 mph. if i stop, i leave it in N, but shift into D when i know i'll have at least 3 full seconds for the trans to "find" gear, without pressing the gas. same if i have to take off again without stopping. shift into D, wait 3 sec, then start lightly on the gas.


btw, i came to these conclusions based on what didn't make my trans bang and jerk horribly into gear.

[wriley4409]

You might try some easy mods first. Here are some that come to mind:

1. Replace rear end lube with a pure synthetic replacement. (reduced friction)
2. Increase tire pressure to 10% over door label recommendation. (reduced rolling resistance)
3. As you are driving a 10+ year old car, you might consider replacing all vacuum hoses. Any vacuum leak really upsets the idle quality and gas mileage.
4. Clean the intake assembly and throttle body as well.
5. If it hasn't already been done, perform a thorough tune-up on the car using high quality replacement components.
6. Switch to synthetic (or Motorcraft synthetic blend) motor oil of the recommended weight. (reduced friction)
7. Thoroughly wash/clean the entire vehicle, including the underside. (reduce weight - grime is heavy)
8. Remove any unnecessary items from your vehicle, or replace with light-weight items. Donut spare intead of full-size, 5 pound tool kit instead of 50 pound tool kit, etc.


9. The Scangauge is a very useful tool for improving your driving habits. If you are on a tight budget, maybe you could look around and find a used Scangauge I for sale.

10. If you still have the original O2 sensors on the car, you will want to consider replacing them, although that can get pricey.


Good luck.

Wayne

[RH77]

I've driven a few Mustangs lately and noticed that they like don't like to tach-down between shifts or on decel, so fuel-cut may be reduced (similar to some Tarurus models). Do you experience that or is there a fix? The worst was on an '04 (?) Mach-1 manual.

-Rick

[metroschultz]

Before you spend money on a Scan Gage, check and make sure your 1994 'Stang is OBDII compatible.
I believe the older Fords were still running EEC4 at that time which is NOT OBDII.
Just a little insight,
Schultz