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Old 01-29-2013, 07:14 PM   #21 (permalink)
radioranger
 
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I put the redline synthetic lightweight shockproof gear oil in the dif of the ranger and must say it works great , picked up an easy 10 lbs torque in the cold weather here now, much better, is a blue color and has some moly in it, flows like 30 weight oil versus the 90 weight and protects even better, at almost 400 k miles she's well broken in and now this week with a bit of warmer weather 40's she is flying, easy to notice a change in an 88 hp truck . all testing seat of the pants but early indication of at least 1/2 mpg gain and driving faster now because it seems to move along easier,

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Old 02-02-2013, 12:45 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I'd be interested in hearing more about the rear end gear oil.

Any links or is redline a brand name?

I know a stupid question but hey, I've never claimed to be the sharpest knife in the drawer.

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Old 02-02-2013, 01:24 PM   #23 (permalink)
radioranger
 
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Redline is a brand name you could look it up at summit racing or amazon, all their stuff is great , tried so far the shockproof gear oil ,the red bearing grease, the regular gear oil and the water wetter, which helps your engine transfer heat better to the coolant, also their regular motor oils are very good also , i think seem to remember one of the magazines i think it was muscle mustangs and fast fords, dyno testing and getting around 5 or more hp difference using their products, quite a bit for an oil change, but my own testing of just their gear oil is definitely noticable increase, weathers a bit variable now with the winds on my route and temps and all but truck feels livelier without a doubt.
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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update

so i successfully removed 120 pounds off of the truck i pulled off all the sound deadening from the floor removed replaced the bucket seats with a bench removed various interior panels, and moved the exhaust outlet from behind the rear tire to in front of it and the new mufflers 2 pounds lighter stock. i also changed the oil prior to the change i put a can of seafoam in to clean out the sludge. i didn't weigh the sludge that came out but there was a lot.

i also picked up some more parts to help with more efficiency they are :
1. 4 barrel intake (aluminum so it lighter and also will let me eliminate the feed back carb which isn't operating correctly)
2. 500 cfm holley carb
3. new distributor
4.efi exhaust manifolds (flow better the headers and cheaper too)
5.replaced the front tires with shorter one (this was just dumb luck belts broke in the old tires and all the local junk yard had was a fairly new pair which are significantly shorter and 4 lobs lighter)
6.also found a fiberglass cowl induction hood for free it needs a few cracks repaired but the price was right.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:06 AM   #25 (permalink)
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If you're into weight reduction, have you ever considered to get a custom-made fiberglass oil pan? It had been used in the Detroit Diesel Series 60 engines, and IIRC the valve cover was also made of composite materials.
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #26 (permalink)
radioranger
 
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if you want the truck to last as near as possible to forever, look up a accusump system from moroso, by putting a tee fitting on the oil sender switch you next run a hose to the bottom of this small tank. if you put a ball valve on the tank inlet you can store oil under pressure to prelube the motor and or use about a quart less oil in the pan and the tank iis always putting pressure in the system to cover any chance of the pump not having oil there, racers use them all the time instead of a dry sump, they make a cheap one quart model and a priceier three quart type, had one for years on my 302 mustang and really helped , since you can run a bit less oil in the pan this way you should pick up some FE. many have noticed a gain from less oil in the pan, this way there is no risk as the tank is there, nothing better than preoiling your motor,
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:55 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr View Post
If you're into weight reduction, have you ever considered to get a custom-made fiberglass oil pan? It had been used in the Detroit Diesel Series 60 engines, and IIRC the valve cover was also made of composite materials.
ill have to look into that cause i gotta pull my pan soon to do a oil pan gasket and rear main seal anyways.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:26 PM   #28 (permalink)
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easiest way to lose weight now for you is the bumpers you can get aluminum u channel pretty reasonably might have to angle cut the u section near the end and bend around, probably could even polish it if you wanted to

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