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Old 01-13-2017, 11:52 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mikejh View Post
Hi Adam,

Been watching here for some time and it is good to see you have resumed work on your 'Vette recently.

Any plans on resuming development on your controller?

Do you have any details on your new 2.4k version?

Thanks.

Mike
Hello Mike,

I plan to finish the controller, but until I get the car done, I dont expect to finish the controller. Without the car, I dont have any way to really test it.

The bigger controller is pretty much designed. A few tweeks are needed to finish it.

The big controller is a beast. about 20lbs of bus plates, 2 SBE ring caps and 6 IGBT modules in 2 banks of 3, with some current balancing circuitry and 2 current sensors.

I was suppose to be building a version of it good for 3300A, but that is on hold currently as the client and I are working on some other things first. Maybe this summer.

-Adam

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Old 01-13-2017, 12:00 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by adamj12b View Post
Hello Mike,

I plan to finish the controller, but until I get the car done, I dont expect to finish the controller. Without the car, I dont have any way to really test it.

The bigger controller is pretty much designed. A few tweeks are needed to finish it.

The big controller is a beast. about 20lbs of bus plates, 2 SBE ring caps and 6 IGBT modules in 2 banks of 3, with some current balancing circuitry and 2 current sensors.

I was suppose to be building a version of it good for 3300A, but that is on hold currently as the client and I are working on some other things first. Maybe this summer.

-Adam
I'm also anxiously waiting for this DC controller
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:18 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamj12b View Post
The big controller is a beast. about 20lbs of bus plates, 2 SBE ring caps and 6 IGBT modules in 2 banks of 3, with some current balancing circuitry and 2 current sensors.

I was suppose to be building a version of it good for 3300A, but that is on hold currently as the client and I are working on some other things first. Maybe this summer.
Any specs on the cooling? What size of glycol lines, how many gpm required to remove that much heat, and what size radiator?

I haven't gotten around to testing the cooling system on Paul's controller - and I have no idea if I have a large enough pump, or radiator, or if the number of passes of glycol across the IGBTs is sufficient.

So far I'm just installing what I have readily available.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:36 PM   #184 (permalink)
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Any specs on the cooling? What size of glycol lines, how many gpm required to remove that much heat, and what size radiator?

I haven't gotten around to testing the cooling system on Paul's controller - and I have no idea if I have a large enough pump, or radiator, or if the number of passes of glycol across the IGBTs is sufficient.

So far I'm just installing what I have readily available.
I havnt actually tested it yet, but the water blockls are 5.5x12 with a 1/4" copper channel for the cooling circuit. These are plumbed in parallel. The rest of the water block is aluminum.

The copper pipes dont remove heat just from the IGBT's but more so the aluminum.

-Adam
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:22 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by adamj12b View Post
I havnt actually tested it yet, but the water blockls are 5.5x12 with a 1/4" copper channel for the cooling circuit. These are plumbed in parallel. The rest of the water block is aluminum.

The copper pipes dont remove heat just from the IGBT's but more so the aluminum.

-Adam
How many 1/4" copper channels are in parallel?

I'm told that the thickness of the aluminum - shortest path between the IGBTs and the copper channels - is the greatest resistance to heat flow. The rest of the aluminum is cooled, but the important part seems to be the path between the heat source (IGBT base) and the cooling (Glycol)

I (since it's Paul's design but it's my heat sink) have 4 passes of 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep (I think) x 10 inches long in series. Most of the area covered is beneath the IGBTs. The cross sectional area works out to about the inside of a 1/2 inch copper pipe, but the machining is not quite as smooth.

The rest of the piping - radiator to pump, pump to heat sink, heat sink to radiator - is 3/4 inch home plumbing flexible plastic pipe that likely should not be in a car. But when you hit it with a heat gun and form it, it holds it's shape quite well.

My circulating pump is rated for about 4 gpm at a couple of PSI head.
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:43 PM   #186 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamj12b View Post
Hello Mike,

I plan to finish the controller, but until I get the car done, I dont expect to finish the controller. Without the car, I dont have any way to really test it.

The bigger controller is pretty much designed. A few tweeks are needed to finish it.

The big controller is a beast. about 20lbs of bus plates, 2 SBE ring caps and 6 IGBT modules in 2 banks of 3, with some current balancing circuitry and 2 current sensors.

I was suppose to be building a version of it good for 3300A, but that is on hold currently as the client and I are working on some other things first. Maybe this summer.

-Adam
Excellent! Thats what I like to hear... More power!

I started my own controller design some time ago using 200V ISOTOP MOSFETs but it is really just a prototype for getting the control side of it running, as the end goal is IGBTs and SBEs.

I want to be able to run a 300V+ pack and limit motor voltage in software like the Soliton did. Thereby trading volts for amps.

Keep up the good work. I'd be interested in seeing some photos or drawings of the beast.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:17 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo View Post
How many 1/4" copper channels are in parallel?

I'm told that the thickness of the aluminum - shortest path between the IGBTs and the copper channels - is the greatest resistance to heat flow. The rest of the aluminum is cooled, but the important part seems to be the path between the heat source (IGBT base) and the cooling (Glycol)

I (since it's Paul's design but it's my heat sink) have 4 passes of 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep (I think) x 10 inches long in series. Most of the area covered is beneath the IGBTs. The cross sectional area works out to about the inside of a 1/2 inch copper pipe, but the machining is not quite as smooth.

The rest of the piping - radiator to pump, pump to heat sink, heat sink to radiator - is 3/4 inch home plumbing flexible plastic pipe that likely should not be in a car. But when you hit it with a heat gun and form it, it holds it's shape quite well.

My circulating pump is rated for about 4 gpm at a couple of PSI head.
I think if the aluminium is cooled then providing you have good thermal conductivity between that and the IGBTs then the block will draw the heat from them.

As far as I know the idea is to maximise the surface area of the aluminium to water contact so that the water can draw as much heat out of the block as possible while it is in contact. Ideally I guess would be a multi finned heatsink immersed in the water flow, but sealing etc is more problematic.

I only used one pass in my prototype and it hasn't been tested, but I tried to maximise surface area while maintaining material for the MOSFET screws to secure without protruding into the water channel.
Machining roughness should improve surface area slightly providing it doesn't cause cavitation issues, but obviously the IGBT surface should be a smooth as possible. I put a fly cutter over mine and it's reasonable but will probably get it smoother before final assembly.

My channels are milled with an 8mm cutter and 15mm deep. Material thickness to the MOSFET surface is 3mm. Sounds similar to what you have done in terms of cross sectional area.

I'm hoping the water will fill the channels properly too. I might put a clear perspex cover on for initial water testing so I can see any trapped air or circulation issues. Maybe introducing some dye once it's running would show up any dead spots.
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Last edited by mikejh; 01-13-2017 at 11:55 PM..
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Old 01-20-2017, 05:41 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Dia duit Adam
That sure does look like a real professional set up I have a AC 10 HP 3phase induction motor would that do as a speed controller for that I would like to build a set up like yours could you post your final parts list when you finish it
What are you going to use it for?

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