new used truck and new used 5th wheel

[skyking]

anywhere you don't step on the vinyl, there are a billion staples. Staples for the carpet, and staples to hold down the vinyl. They used no glue.

[slowmover]

Axles and tire/wheel load range are usually minimal. Upgrade to Dexter torsion axles for far more suspension travel and stability. Plus LT tires on 16" or larger wheels. TUSON Direclnk brake controller s best.

Scales should show that solo Steer Axle weight is the same when hitched (or a bit above).

KONI FSD shocks. Helwig rear antiroll bar and upsize the front to compensate. Poly grease able bushings. A rear Panhard Rod would also be good.

Those years of the CTD had poor steering. Correcting this (and above) will do more than add-on aero.

"Open" floor plan harder on heating and cooling. Not to mention sound control. I used cork in last trailer for flooring and it is all around wonderful. .

If going with a catalytic heater, look for the one brand that uses external combustion air.

The Mach 8 AC unit is considerably shorter than others. Three way reefer is still best for RV, but check brand for problems. Mine is a 2002 replacement that recently ran nonstop for three years after board replacement.

Surge protection at service outlet best. New service panel also a good idea, as is a modern convertor and AGM batteries.

[skyking]

Torsion axles are on the list with disk brakes. Other than the shocks, the panhards or upsized anti sway are not as necessary with a 5th wheel trailer. I've gone both routes.
When I was bringing it home, I had to sit back and wait to pass the empty can haulers. They were taking up two lanes on the passes in the gusts, and this combo was simply not moving around in a pretty stiff wind. I was pleased about that. This was before replacing all the steering components on the truck.
The trailer supposedly has about 1100 pounds pin weight. Once I get the wall and bathroom back in, I will scale it in a typical loaded configuration. It is a camper not a full-timer so it will have about the same load-out on any given trip.
Empty weight is marked inside as 6900. Gross weight was set at 7000 (axle rating) plus 1081 for 8081. It will probably be right up there when it is all done with a load of fresh water.

[skyking]

Vinyl is down, shower pan in, wet wall and shower enclosure roughed in . I recycled the 1x3 from the old wall and some of the plastic coated paneling. Re-used the shower drain.
I have FRP cut for the enclosure panels.

[slowmover]

Shocks, antiroll and Panhard on truck. Plus capital E elimination of steering slop in truck. Even the "improved" steering on the 4WD has weak points. Driving a big truck makes me extra sensitive, I suppose, enough to choose a truck based there first, not on drivetrain.

Very pleased you want the torsion axles. That, and antilock disc brakes thru TUSON is a gigantic change for the good in handling/braking. Reviews on the mr trailer site.

10% pin weight seems low. Ought to be 12 or more IIRC. And, is the hitch height compatible with today's taller trucks? (maybe that is part of the plan with new axles is to raise trailer height. A 5er makes that less of a penalty, all around).

Impressed by the amount of work you're doing. Folks think these things are easy to remodel, and they're not. Space efficiency is difficult. Mistakes stand out more in a small space, etc.

Going to do the Zepp floor finish treatment on the exterior? (maybe that's for the fiberglass crowd).

Window seals are the biggest pain on older units. Not a "big"'job in comparison to others, but potential for damage to interior great both stationary and underway.

FWIW, my best mpg in towing is at 55mph. Plateaus by the now usual 58/9-mph at 1,725-rpm in the 3.73-geared QC long bed with topper CTD. NV5600 six manual. On cruise control once on highway. Above 60 even a little it starts to drop off fairly fast. Or, why I want 3.42 as gearing with stock tire size gets too high for sub-65/mph travel.

Rear OEM wheel well liners a nice upgrade. I run Rotella T6 and Baldwin oil filter. MOPAR 4" air filter. Muffler replaced with a lower restriction ROKKTECH unit.

Once hitched, using a CAT Scale a must. I roughed in my rig recently and instantly gained 1.5-mpg with better weight distribution. Simply good enough to get me up the road. This on a rig where both vehicles need repairs and maintenance also related to FE.

[skyking]

Never heard of the zepp floor finish trick, I will have to look it it up.
I doubt I will add rear torsion or upgrade the front before I work over the head at least.
The steering is new from the box out. It does not get any tighter.
The pin weight is about 12~13% now. The bigger batteries up front will add a small bit to that. At least it is in the right direction
My truck is going to be OK on height with the stock axles and tires, but just barely. I will post some pics after I get it hooked. I'd like bigger tries but these are too new and in good shape to just pull.
60 is top end for me too. I spend more time in the hills and I will be using 5th, which will be a great gear with the 3.42 gears. 6th on the flats and shallow stuff.

[skyking]

I got the plumbing done and things put back together enough to go camping tomorrow. It is 58 miles each way of fairly flat going, so I will get to see how the combo does on a flatland trip.
I got the pin box raised up and nose of the trailer lowered, still have to hook it up an check clearances, turns etc. It has a new pin box so I need to see if it will clear the cab.

[skyking]

Just got back and will have to go fill up and see. I put more miles on without the trailer just sightseeing than I did with, so I will have to divide that by 20 and subtract those gallons to figure out combo MPG.
I got a scale weight at the DOT scales. 4900-5000 and 3280-3420 truck and trailer front-rear.

[skyking]

Update on the truck:
The engine is done It was on borrowed time and the loan got foreclosed.
It lunched one or more rings in one or more cylinders yesterday, ran pretty rough.
I will get it out this weekend and up to an overhauler in BC that I know. It will get oversized pistons, new cam, upgraded injectors but the rest will be stock.
The oversized pistons because the bore is most certainly damaged.

[Hersbird]

Was this your 2007? How many miles did it go? I'm still debating possible cheap trucks prone to problems like a 2003 6.0 Ford, fixer trucks like a 2003 Dodge 6 speed with a bad tranny, or ready to rock trucks that cost over $16000.

Good luck, I'm sure it will come out better then new and less expensive then trying to trade it on another.