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Old 09-07-2017, 09:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
CruzeMTgrind
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
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BlueBawls - '14 Chevrolet Cruze Eco
90 day: 52.63 mpg (US)

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I'm not quite as mechanically inclined as the majority of you guys on here. For me replacing the diff pinion seal was enough of a task. So tranny swap probably out of the question for my limited ability. Always learning more though. The coil spring I will probably try pucking otherwise junkyard pull like you stated.

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Old 09-16-2017, 07:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
CruzeMTgrind
 
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BlueBawls - '14 Chevrolet Cruze Eco
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Just had what I would call a record trip. If mpg display on dash is going to be consistent at 2+ mpg low like last tank trip from cold start was 30+ mpg. Previous tank at 27.6 the dic was reading 24.7 for the full tank. Hoping that will hold true. 30 mpg explorers are rare lol
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:07 PM   #23 (permalink)
Lurking Eco-wall-o-texter
 
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Unhappy Argh, more coolant leaks.

30mpg is really good! I still need to get a feedback device.

Me, I finally installed the front shocks and swaybar end links I bought a while back. In the process, I found that I've got more coolant leaks.

Passenger side looks like timing cover gasket. Dribbled down block and made a nice perfect little droplet on the end of that corner oil pan bolt. Driver side I can't tell as well - could be timing cover, could be water pump. Also making a droplet on an oil pan bolt.

Both could also be head gasket or lower intake manifold gasket, hard to tell, won't have a good chance to check from cold start until next weekend. Odd thing was, truck was dry when I parked it in the garage - but when I cranked the engine and ran it just long enough to turn the wheels to one side so I could get tools in better, I saw the leak. At least it isn't using much.

(I can't turn the wheels without the engine running or the power steering gets VERY unhappy and will randomly throw a death-wobble tantrum until the air is all bled out. Something to do with the Explorer power steering rack design.)

Poked at the rear O2 sensor wiring - found a frayed spot in the sheath over the wires, but nothing busted or cut. Couldn't find a worn spot in the wire insulation itself, either. Unplugged and replugged the harness, but haven't checked to see if it has woken up from previous constant 0.0V output yet.

At least the truck doesn't do the "bouncy, bouncy, bouncy" bad shocks thing over large bumps anymore.

Thinking real hard about using Bar's Leaks' "Head Gasket Repair" on this thing. Requires draining, flushing, filling with the stuff + water, bleeding out the air, going through a few heat cycles, then drain, flush and re-fill with coolant. Anybody have any experience with this stuff? It isn't the "drop in" stuff, so no major particulates or sludge-generators, but pretty much the highest concentration of sodium silicate you can get off the shelf unless you search out pure stuff. $12 or so, too, so not very expensive like some of the other brands.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:00 PM   #24 (permalink)
CruzeMTgrind
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
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BlueBawls - '14 Chevrolet Cruze Eco
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Can't help in regards to the head gasket patch kit. Don't know anyone who has tried it. Hope someone can chime in and give u advice on it. I would say don't go cheap on it and look into the product as much as u can. Someone has to have some diy out there or words of wisdom. Glad ur suspension troubles are over though. Mine still needs some TLC from a wrench or 2. In regard to mpg I'm looking to try something I read earlier. Another X guy reported adjusting the parking brake out gained nearly 1 mpg over the course of 5 tanks after the adjustment. Worth a shot it's a pretty simple job from the looks of it.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:21 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Chorizo - '00 Honda Civic HX, baby! :D
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Shouty Kilmore has several videos promoting stop leak products. Eric the Car Guy has one showing what happened when a customer tried it. It still needed a head gasket replacement, but now it needed the rest of the system replaced.

Some people swear by them, or insist one is good, but the rest are bad, but regardless of how closely you follow the directions, if it does not work, they insist you did not follow the directions.

I replaced the head gasket on my Forester. It was a pain, but I knew it would work right afterward. It cost me $500 in parts and tools.

There is much more evidence that it will do damage than there is that it will help.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:54 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Well, I did at least do a compression check on cylinder 3. 150 psi cold, throttle shut, all other plugs still in. So the bore is probably still good, meaning it is likely a solid short block. Set of heads is $560, bolts and gaskets another $200, rocker arms and pushrods another $250, water pump since it has to come off, oil pump since I ought to drop the pan getting into it this far, etc.

I just need to go over the prices and figure out whether it's worth it to me (not on paper - this truck is worth maybe $500 since it has already been totaled) to fix it right, or to swap in a newer engine, just drive it, or just get something else. Honestly not sure what I want to do with it. Going to do something about the rear O2 sensor next, maybe try and find the evap system leak.

The real problem is likely something along the lines of "it isn't an FJ-40, but those don't have crumple zones, they cost 10x what they used to, and I've got a family depending on me." Adulting is hard sometimes.
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:16 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Head gasket patch is what you use to get the vehicle sold.
They don't work.
It's more of a temporarily repair till you can get it fixed right. This head gasket rear stuff doesn't stop the leak, it just slows it down.

Not fixing a bad head gasket as soon as possible will lead to cylinder wash down with coolant, which will taper it, then after you fix it you will be burning oil.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:58 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Chorizo - '00 Honda Civic HX, baby! :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cajunfj40 View Post
Adulting is hard sometimes.
Indeed!

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