12-14-2011, 02:40 AM
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#5381 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
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Nah... Rule #1. Blame someone else when it doesn't work. 
New controller soldering a success!!!:
Oh no! They are going to fall on the ground! hahaha.
Each of these would take about 30 bashes with a hammer and flathead screwdriver to remove:
That was just the diode bar. Tomorrow is the MOSFET bar! The process is easy now that I have it down.
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When I die, I would like to go peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather did. Not screaming and yelling like the passenger in his car.
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The Following User Says Thank You to MPaulHolmes For This Useful Post:
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12-14-2011, 04:05 AM
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#5382 (permalink)
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EV modder
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amsterdam
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Paul, are those glued on?
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12-14-2011, 04:09 AM
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#5383 (permalink)
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EV modder
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Amsterdam
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Soldered right.. but I don't see any solder?
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12-14-2011, 11:56 AM
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#5384 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
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Oh they're soldered! I used solder paste:
This video is a pile of crap, but it shows the basic process. I just left out the finished product and dipping it in water. When I filmed it, I still didn't know exactly how I was going to do the whole process.
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When I die, I would like to go peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather did. Not screaming and yelling like the passenger in his car.
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12-14-2011, 06:31 PM
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#5385 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
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I picked up an optocoupler from the nearby supplier, soldered it in, powered up the controller, and as the precharge time expired, the contactor clicked closed! It was working again! However the mosfet Q1 was getting hot, so back to the store to get a replacement.
They did not have the exact part, but assured me that an IRF5210, a P-Channel 100v 40A MosFET would work just as well. And it did work, activating the contactor just like it used to before the problems. It stays cool to the touch as well.
I will reassemble and test it in the car a little later on. Maybe I should put a diode accross the coil -- I will check what they say on their website first.
Amin
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12-14-2011, 08:17 PM
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#5386 (permalink)
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EcoModder
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Zealand
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You should DEFINITELY put a diode across the contactor coil. Cathode to +, anode to - and it needs a PIV rating of a couple or more times the supply voltage with a current rating equal to the coil current. If you don't fit a diode, the inductive spike generated when you open the contactor will destroy most things.
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Sometimes I sits and thinks and sometimes I just sits.
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12-14-2011, 08:38 PM
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#5387 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
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The reason I did not use a diode was that I read somewhere it was not needed and could actually damage the KiloVac EV200AAANA contactor with the built in economizer circuit. The specs sheet says: "Built-in coil economizer – only 1.7W hold power @ 12VDC and it limits back EMF to 0V. Models requiring extenal economizer also available."
Amin
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12-14-2011, 11:34 PM
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#5388 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
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The IRF5210 is definitely a superior part. I once had an EV200 with the economizer not working. I wonder if that's part of the problem. It caused the mosfet to fail. Do you have a way to monitor the current being used by the coil?
__________________
When I die, I would like to go peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather did. Not screaming and yelling like the passenger in his car.
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12-15-2011, 12:02 AM
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#5389 (permalink)
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EV DIYer
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Vancouver, BC
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With a DMM in series with the contactor coil, the current drops from just over an amp down to 0.1 amp when the contactor closes, and stay there.
It says on their website in 'Technical Support' :
"............The problem is easy to avoid; simply don't put anything across the relay coil that will slow down the release time of the relay................because the contacts will usually "tack weld" on the make, and improper coil suppression reduces the coil energy which is needed to break the weld."
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12-15-2011, 12:24 AM
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#5390 (permalink)
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PaulH
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
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Well the economizer is working! I just don't get why a part rated for 18 amps can't do 0.1 amps. I'm just glad it's working now.
__________________
When I die, I would like to go peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather did. Not screaming and yelling like the passenger in his car.
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