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Old 11-15-2012, 12:25 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I found that taking time on the rim tapping was worth it!

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Old 11-15-2012, 01:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Being in SE MI, you'll definitely run into corrosion w/ steel to aluminum from all of the road salt... Good news is that generally when mixed they fasten to each other through the corrosion process, so just consider it a secondary locktite!

I didn't catch what option you've decided to go with (if you've decided at all!) but here is some food for thought, the best way I see doing it for a permanent mod (since it will be with that combo of alloys anyways)

-drill and tap the holes (no sweat on tapping aluminum, looks like you've already researched the correct way of doing it)

-Run bolts along with the star type lock washers through the back side and use either locktite or epoxy on the back half of the threads to permanently mount the screws.

-use small rubber bushings between pizza pan and rim to aid in removal when necessary (mounting them flush will lead to higher risk of corrosion binding)

-use compression nuts (and flat lock washers [optional]) but DO NOT use nylocks! The heat generated from braking can cause the nylon to melt!


How much did you pay for those covers shipping incl. if you don't mind my asking?
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I am going to check this out...

I am in the research / acquiring material / willing to listen to other ideas stage, since I won't be doing much until a week or so. No holes drilled yet.

I paid about $10.00 each on the pans, from Grainger. There is a local branch that lets me use my account from the company I work at. I just have to pay tax and use pick up instead of shipping to my office.


So essentially, you are suggesting use both the tapping concept that others are suggesting, and the 'through bolt from the rear' process, to have studs that stick out? Using the loctite, / epoxy, as opposed to a front side lock nut?

Brilliant!!!!

I just checked, and I guess it is not too bad price (few bucks) for an 8-32 tap. I was drawn to that size since that fits in the groove on each spoke.

For the pan, I have rubber grommets that those bolts fit through. I was going to use nylon retaining washers and SS fender washers, so there should be no metal from the pans touching the wheel itself. Rubber grommet will be sandwiched between those.

And as far as the nuts are concerned, you are suggesting to go with split ring washers and compression nuts instead of nylok nuts? The concern being heat on nylon.

OK, I will check into that... Have to see what you mean by compression nuts. Not sure I can think of what those look like.

But either way, running in a screw through a tapped hole from the back is on the table. If I mess it up, I still have the drill bit for a through hole

I will have to research and purchase the correct drill bit size.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:30 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Tapping Al is a breese, haven't done that much but tapped spindles on my lawn mower for grease zert using cordless drill in 30 seconds. Little forward, little back, little forward, little back. I just picked a bit that looked smaller than the root diameter didn't have a machinery handbook at home, probalby not the right bit either.

8-32 is 0.164, drill size should use is 29 or 0.1360.

I have a hard time seeing the nylocks getting that hot out there spining in the wind. Source I found said good to 121C so 250F.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:30 PM   #25 (permalink)
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OK, critical (to me) question

Just trying to get objective advice... and I want to be critical of my own idea as well..


Just because I can tap the holes, and go in from the back, to avoid the use of a locknut on the front, I am wondering what makes it better than the locknut option, with a thru hole?

This is assuming the locknut on the front will be flush to the front surface and not make the pizza pan stick out. The groove, once I file it a bit, will be squared up, and the locknut will fit snugly into it.


So I know it seems you guys are fans of tapping, and I could tap it, I am sure it could be just fine.

But, is there a concern I should have that makes tapping better than locknut option, from first and foremeost a safety standpoint?

It will require me to acquire a different drill bit, a tap, and a tapping handle, and soem sort of lubricant (I read olive oil works well tho). And of course, time to tap 20 holes.

Versus... drill, file, put in screws, done?


This is a learning process for me...

Thanks for feedback. I am OCD, so any idea I get sometime throws me off to another idea and I never finish a projects. My achilles heel...
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:31 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesternStarSCR View Post

And as far as the nuts are concerned, you are suggesting to go with split ring washers and compression nuts instead of nylok nuts? The concern being heat on nylon.

OK, I will check into that... Have to see what you mean by compression nuts. Not sure I can think of what those look like.

Sorry for the confusion, here are pics since there are so many names for all of them!

Star lock washers: http://www.primefasteners.com/images...StarLWshrs.gif

Split Beam Nuts: http://www.designnotes.com/companion/barrett/rich02.gif
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:11 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I was asking my 6 year old what would look good painted on them. She said swirly things to make it look like it is spinning.
If you want wisdom, go to a six-year-old. They're not overthinking things yet.

Lefts and rights. Only do a spiral that goes part way around the circle so it looks like it's spinning. If you go around 2 time or more it will look like it's growing (or shrinking).
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesternStarSCR View Post
It will require me to acquire a different drill bit, a tap, and a tapping handle, and soem sort of lubricant (I read olive oil works well tho). And of course, time to tap 20 holes.

Versus... drill, file, put in screws, done?
I would definitely choose tapping. It's a cleaner assembly, more OEM style. As for the time for tapping, you also have to consider the time you need to file 20 spots for the nuts. I allways use olive oil when tapping, work's like a charm.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:21 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Changed to tapping idea

Tapping it is!!!

I found a Irwin brand kit at Home Depot for $5. Came with #29 pilot bit and 8-32 tap. Picked up some locking washers too.

Gonna stick with my nylon lock nuts. I will use some loctite on the studs to wheel hole.

Thanks for suggestions and encouragement that tapping is a valid and good option, not too complicated.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck.


Last edited by Beau; 11-16-2012 at 10:52 AM..
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